Ups and downs of a visit to the Genting Highlands

Hera Diani, The Jakarta Post, Genting Highlands, Malaysia

The crisp, invigorating air welcomed me as I arrived at Genting Highlands Resort, perched atop a hilltop just 50 kilometers northeast of Kuala Lumpur, or about a two-hour drive from the capital.

But I gasped for more oxygen as I saw hundreds of people with their luggage swarming the lobby of First World Hotel.

There were probably 10 counters and several signs stating "this group check in here". A few blank moments later, my eyes caught a sign on the pole right in the middle of the lobby, telling me to "get a number to check in".

I joined a snaking queue with a few dozen other tourists. An elderly Singaporean man behind me grumbled, "There is nowhere in the world where we'd have to be like this. I'd rather pay more than having to queue like this".

It was Sunday afternoon, perhaps a perfect time to gamble at the country's one and only casino that draws tourists from all over the world. But there were also families milling around, ready to try out the theme park and family entertainment center.

Neither a gambler nor with any dependents on hand, I came at local newspaper The Star's invitation to see the gala performance of the Dances of the Dynasties, an internationally acclaimed Chinese musical and cultural extravaganza.

When my turn came, the hotel staff could not find my name on the booking list. A couple of agonizing phone calls later, I found out that I had been transferred to nearby Genting Hotel.

A bit exhausted, I was finally able to check into my room at the less modern designed five-star Genting Hotel, but the plus was that it was far less crowded.

The room was pretty decent, as opposed to a colleague's description of the standard hotel rooms at the aforementioned resort, with shocking pink curtains and corny interior design, allegedly aimed at getting people out of their rooms to keep rolling the dice.

My room seemed OK, until I found nothing inside the minibar but a solitary pot of water. Fine, I thought: I'll head outside.

Nestled 2,000 meters above sea level, Genting Highlands is the most developed hill resort in Malaysia, offering a cool respite from steamy Kuala Lumpur, with consistent temperatures between 16 and 23 Celsius degrees.

It was unusually cold when I was there, with the temperature below 16 degrees and mist shrouding the area.

Many Malaysians (Muslim Malaysian citizens are prohibited from visiting the casinos) head for the Genting Highlands for its nightlife like discos, indoor and outdoor theme parks, as well as a concert hall seating 6,000.

Lovers of the links can enjoy an 18-hole golf course amid a rain forest, while the eco-minded should visit the Awana Eco Park at the bottom of the mountain range, offering a variety of adventures.

Unfortunately, the chilly weather and mist prevented me from going outside, although I really would have like to have plunged along the Corkscrew, or to try the boat ride, monorail and the skyway. The latter is the tallest and longest cable car system in Southeast Asia.

Instead, I wandered around the place.

Genting Hotel is connected with other four establishments: Highlands, Resort, Theme Park and First World, as well as the indoor theme park. No wonder the taxi driver smirked when I asked him to drive me from First World to Genting.

Guests ranging from black burqa-clad Arabian women, Indians in saris and kurta, to chic Chinese decked out in leather, patronize its restaurants, shops and swimming pools.

In welcoming the Chinese New Year, the resort was decorated with Chinese ornaments and several artists exhibited traditional artworks, from paintings to dough toys.

I had the Malay cuisine nasi lemak (rice cooked in coconut milk with side dishes of chicken and salted fish) for lunch, feasting on the delicious meal in the middle of the indoor theme park. Afterwards, I strolled by the row upon row of slot machines.

Again, with no interest in gambling, I went back to my room to prepare for the gala performance of the Chinese troupe.

Comprising 80 members, the group showcases the culture, traditions and way of life of the middle kingdom, spanning 5,000 years and highlighting the Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties.

Unfortunately, aside from the impressive 1,000 sets of costumes and accessories, the dance itself was nothing to write home about, except for a brief acrobatic show by a young boy and a couple of men, which was very attractive and daring.

The dance, in all its over-the-top extravagance, reminded me of the drag show in Phuket, Thailand, only the latter is funnier and livelier.

I left the next morning by taxi to Kuala Lumpur. The mist was drifting away to reveal the lush green of the tropical rain forest. I only wished that I had had more time to see more and try the outdoor activities.

It is amazing that our neighboring country has been able to devise a one-stop resort for family and gamblers alike that attracts international visitors. An artificial world amid natural surroundings, it's an odd match, although the place is nowhere near as plastic as Singapore's Sentosa Island.

I may go back one day. Next time, I would bring more money to try out some slot machines and table games and, of course, some more company along for the ride.