Unique art of entertaining is a stylish tradition

JAKARTA (JP): Entertaining and honoring guests in style is a centuries-old tradition in this country.

Rich hospitality is usually at the heart of traditional festivities involving hundreds of people in a community.

At the events, especially rites of passage ceremonies such as the birth of a baby and weddings, the host lays on a sumptuous spread of food for guests.

As a societal gathering, a celebration also provides a prime opportunity to display the most beautiful heirlooms -- and attendant status -- of the host family.

These communal meals are carefully prepared and elaborately presented in line with the rules, values and tradition in each society. Dishes are generally complex and require much effort to prepare. All members of a community will usually help cook and decorate these celebration feasts.

In Java, there is usually the nasi tumpeng rice cone, accompanied by uraban, steamed vegetables with grated coconut, at a feast.

The mountain-shaped rice cone is a work of art in itself and is rich in symbolic values and messages. It represents the host's hope for blessing from the society as well as Almighty God. All guests partake in the cone, but the top is presented to the most respected attendee.

Similar festive meals such as lawar in Bali, ohamina in West Nusa Tenggara and astakona in Kalimantan are found throughout the archipelago.

Although entertaining has been recognized in the country for hundreds of years, the modern form is mostly a nod to international, primarily Western styles and standards.

These are rooted in the 16th century French royal code known as etiquette protocolaire. This specified rules of table manners, dress code and etiquette for hosts and invited guests at royal functions.

Today, people have slightly modified the code and experimented with a range of styles to adjust to their needs.

Yuna Nasution wrote in Inspiration Indonesia, a recently published book on using Indonesian traditions in entertaining, that there were formal, semiformal and informal occasions. These range from an afternoon tea, luncheon, dinner, cocktails, and so forth. Each requires specific food, table settings and decorations.

Table setting styles can be divided into the elegant-classic, mostly found in formal occasions such as state dinners, and the contemporary or ethnic, for semiformal and informal events.

Formal entertaining, usually dinners, is always elegant, sophisticated, prestigious and official. Rules and etiquette must be observed.

Formal dinners means sit-down dining in which the guests are served by waiters. Seating arrangements are carefully devised by the host.

The use of silver or silver-plated cutlery and fine carved crystal is a must for formal dinners. The tablecloth is usually pure white damask to create an elegant and sophisticated look.

Semiformal entertaining gives a wider opportunity for the host to use more decorative tableware. It does not necessarily have to be silver or crystal. High-quality ceramics and earthenware are acceptable. Tablecloths and napkins can be colorful and made from modern fabrics to conjure up warm and joyous atmosphere.

Informal entertaining is for meetings with acquaintances. Since it is a casual occasion, it can take place in the garden, on the terrace or at the beach. The food can be presented buffet style for guests to help themselves.

The art of setting the table covers not only the arrangement of the dinner service, but also suitable and artistic decoration. The setting is a vital aspect of entertaining, since the manner in which the table is presented helps create the desired atmosphere.

Several basic items are used for decorating the table, especially in a sit-down dinner.

* Tablecloths

The rules for fabric and color are fairly relaxed today although white damask is still the best choice for a formal dinner.

Many different kinds of fabrics in attractive designs and colors are now available on the market, including linen, silk, satin, cotton and even synthetic textiles. Avoid cloths that crease easily and colors that run when washed.

* Place mats

Place mats are sometimes preferable so that the natural beauty of a table surface, for example marble or teakwood, can be beautifully exposed. There are a variety of fabrics, colors and designs available.

* Table napkins

Table napkins serve a decorative function as well as in practical use. As a decoration, they can be folded in a variety of interesting shapes such as tulips, lilies and fans.

A table napkin should be made of absorbent fabric. It does not have to be identical to the place mat or tablecloth. When using white tablecloth, matching white napkins -- perhaps with a lace edging -- are preferable.

* Flowers

Fresh flowers arrangement can enliven the table setting. But a floral centerpiece must not block a guest's view of the person across the table.

* Accessories

Many accessories -- i.e. candles in ornamental holders -- can be used to accentuate the aesthetic of a table setting. (raw)