Udayana Lodge offers true eco-atmosphere

By Grace Segran

DENPASAR, Bali (JP): A friend of ours heard we were going to Bali (again) and sent me the website and e-mail address of Udayana Lodge. Seventy hectares of bushland, 50 species of birds and as many species of butterflies.

Seems a far cry from the opulence of Nusa Dua hotels and the shopping obsession that seems to inhabit us when we stay in Kuta. Why not, we thought, and made reservations immediately. We have been there many times since.

The Lodge, as it is simply called, was the idea of Australians Alan and Meryl Wilson. "In a small way, we hope to support Indonesia through this University linkage," Alan said.

Meryl designed and built The Lodge, with an African flavor showing the influence of its designer's past.

The Wilsons resided in Africa before being driven out by the political antics of Idi Amin and, via Australia, have been in Indonesia for the last 20 years. You can read all about their escape from Africa in the book Shadow of Flight, in which Meryl journals their adventure. The book is available for sale at The Lodge.

Alan is a veterinarian whose main interest is the protection of the environment. Meryl is a physiotherapist who has become a builder of buildings and institutions. Their kids speak Indonesian and love the country.

"Indonesia has given us much and we see The Lodge as a means of giving back to the country some of the funds we have earned here," said Alan.

The Lodge was officially opened by the rector of Udayana University on July 31, 1996. The Wilsons have a 15-year lease on the land, and after this time The Lodge will become university property. The university suggested they call it Wisma Udayana in honor of a king from long ago.

The Lodge is an attempt at a true eco-lodge. It fulfills the five main characteristics of eco-tourism and is thus a true example of an environmentally friendly building and business. The Wilsons concentrate on giving guests good service, peace and quiet at a reasonable price. Guests come for either business or pleasure.

The Wilsons work hard on protecting the environment and have over 50 species of birds and 60 species of butterflies on the grounds.

"We are also the only hotel in Indonesia which specially caters for cricketers," Alan, an avid cricketer, added.

The Lodge has had guests from over 30 countries from around the world. "Most have to be slightly eccentric to find us and most come for the peace and quiet, and personal and friendly service offered by the staff," said Alan.

The Wilsons have built up an e-mail database of guests who are willing to tell others about their experiences. Some guests have likened The Lodge to a "home away from home".

Many have returned numerous times, including the mandolin- playing Desmonds from New Zealand, the Swofforths from Seattle, who mainly come to study Balinese culture, a group of zoo professionals from the U.S., including Johnny Bintang, en route to study Komodo dragons, and the two Tims from the United Kingdom who just love the place.

Others come for specific reasons, such as the Haatelas from Finland to photograph butterflies, Yves Blanc from Switzerland to look at birds or Jungle Jensen from Australia who comes for the friendship found at The Lodge.

The dining room and the lounge, airy and spacious, are like one gigantic verandah that opens on the sea. The view is spectacular.

A fairly large variety of items are available on the menu. The staff is quite happy to oblige your every wish, provided you give them sufficient time as all orders are cooked from scratch.

The rooms are comfortable and air-conditioned. When you go through the Balinese door which is latched with a bar of wood, you will find an outdoor shower area. This was one of the thrills of our visit.

The room rate includes breakfast. The marmalade made from local oranges is excellent with toast. The rate also includes laundry and transfers to and from the airport.

The Wilsons were given two beautiful owls to look after -- a barred owl called Darwin and a bufffy fish owl named Wallace. Both are on the endangered species list.

"We adapted both to the environment and they began to live a life and coming and going and talking with guests," remarked Alan. Wallace one day became very sick with a disease characterized by total paralysis. "We thought he would die but by determination and good nursing he has largely recovered and can be seen at The Lodge any day," said Alan. "We never give up hope that it will fly on it's own."

Darwin became a much-loved bird and it was with great sadness that one day he was found drowned in the swimming pool. "We felt we had lost a dear friend and he will always be remembered," said Alan sadly.

These owls have become famous all over the world and almost every day the Wilsons receive e-mails asking for news about them. "These birds have taught us what fantastic characters owls are and they can teach us so much about ourselves," marveled Alan.

The Lodge is wonderful if you want to come and just vegetate and get away from it all, or take long hikes in the bushland and take lots of pictures. It may be a long way off the main thoroughfare in Bukit Jimbaran, but a taxi is just a call away to bring you out for a seafood meal at the beach or for shopping in Kuta.