Trying something different, but not too different, in Koh Samui

Tantri Yuliandini The Jakarta Post Koh Samui, Thailand

When I first set foot on Koh Samui, Thailand, my immediate reaction was that the island was not all that much different from Bali. It boasts sun, sand, sea, and all the activities that can be found involving a combination of the three, activities that could also be found on Bali.

What was different was the people. Instead of the dark- skinned, black-haired people common in Asia, this 247-square- kilometer island on the Gulf of Thailand is at first glance seemingly inhabited by blonde-haired, blue-eyed people with white skin just starting to tan.

And if you listen closely, you are most likely to hear English, German and Italian being spoken instead of the melodious Thai speech that you first expected.

Indeed, Koh Samui, Thailand's third largest island after Phuket and Koh Chang, is a favorite among Europeans, especially those from German-speaking countries and Italy.

"It's a great place if you want to try something different but not too different," Christina Dragon, Singapore director of sales for Central Hotels and Resorts, said.

The group owns a chain of hotels around Thailand including the Central Samui Beach Resort and the Central Samui Village on Koh Samui.

Being not too different is also evident along the island's major beaches, Chaweng and Lamai on the east coast of the island, where pubs, clubs, and restaurants have names such as Piccola Italia, Mawney Arms, and Gringos Cantina.

It's a home away from home, and even the most adventurous don't want their adventures to be too "different", which is why many eateries in Koh Samui boast of having their own Austrian chef, such as at the Ark Bar, or the ones established by the Scandinavians for Scandinavians, such as the Tre Kronor (Three Crowns).

"People like to go somewhere different, but somehow they feel safer when the place has a familiar feel to it, for example a Swiss staying in a hotel with a Swiss manager," said Cris Micut, the resident manager of the Paradise Beach Resort on Samui.

Once a backpackers' haven, the island (koh in Thai) has moved upmarket in recent times, attracting more than 800,000 foreign visitors last year (more than 1 million including domestic tourists) with growth running at about 4 percent per year and bringing in about 14 billion Baht (about US$320.4 million), said Pramoth Supyen, director of the Surat Thani office of the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT).

This figure, compared to the more than 10 million visitors coming to Thailand in 2001, makes Koh Samui the top tourist destination in Surat Thani.

First inhabited by immigrants from the Chinese island of Hainan, Koh Samui -- located some 80 km east of Surat Thani province -- used to have the world's largest coconut plantation.

"What appears today as a refreshingly green backdrop to the beaches was, until recently, the islanders' main livelihood," said Mark Standen in his book The Wonder of Koh Samui, Kong Phangan, Koh Tao and Ang Thong Marine National Park.

Koh Samui now has a reputation for long, clean beaches lined with resorts, restaurants and entertainment spots. It's mountainous and forested interior also permits a growing number of treks and eco-tours.

With no end of water sports and activities on offer, it is a perfect place for those who worship the sun and want to enjoy it to the fullest.

And when you are done with water sports, a broad range of shops line the road at Chaweng Beach offering not only traditional Thai souvenirs but also luggage, shoes, T-shirts, jewelry and all those trinkets that are so dear to the tourist's heart.

When I was there in September at the invitation of TAT, there were even quite a few art shops offering paintings of eyes peering out from what appeared to be a blue chador (a hint of the Sept. 11 effect?).

A note of caution though, unless there fixed prices are stated, prepare to bargain through your teeth, as the prices on the island can be a little higher than those on the mainland.

At night, music booms out of pubs and clubs spilling onto the streets as the tourists revel in dancing and drinking.

"You should've been here during the full moon, that's when Samui has its wild full moon parties," our host from Hotelscope said. We were about two-weeks overdue.

What makes Koh Samui different from Bali is that the island is lacking in anything traditional, which is not unusual given its background as a refuge for immigrants. There are, of course, numerous offers of Thai food courses and Thai-nights in hotels, but it is just not the same as a well performed kecak under the moonlight, is it?

Surfing is also not possible on the island, which makes Bali still the number one spot for surfers.

What Bali does not have that Samui does is the sense of security. Despite efforts to distance the "island of the gods" from the other riot-torn provinces in Indonesia, the country's image as a safe haven for tourists has been badly hit by what has happened over recent years.

"Once the reputation has been tarnished, it is very difficult to regain the trust of tourists," TAT director for Singapore, Indonesia and the Philippines, Somphong Waraphasakul, said. He said that Bali's tarnished reputation had helped increase Samui's popularity among European tourists.

For those wanting to taste a hint of the real Samui, a tour around the island is recommended, which is not too difficult as a road network exists covering the whole island.

One of the more interesting sights to see is the Big Buddha, Samui's most famous landmark, at Wat Phra Yai. Visible from several kilometers away, even from the air, the 15-meter-tall golden statue portrays Buddha in the pose of subduing mara. The statue is especially impressive when lit up at night.

For a small donation, visitors can leave a record of their visit by signing a brick or pavingstone that will be used in the construction of a new yard at the Wat (wat meaning temple in Thai).

Another interesting stop is the Wat Khunaram with its mummified monk. Phra Khru Samathakittikhun, the ex-abbot of Wat Khunaram, was 79 years old when he foresaw his own death in 1973, after which his undecomposed remains were displayed in a separate building called the Nirvana Room in the Wat, according to his wishes.

The mummy itself is seated upright in meditation with a monk's saffron robes wrapped around its now chalky body. Dark sunglasses cover its eyes and many flowers and candles from devotees are laid on the floor at the mummy's feet.

The Hin-Ta and Hin-Yai, or Grandmother and Grandfather, rock formations are also favorite stops for tourists, and are also popular with local Thais on weekends. The natural rocks have been naturally crafted to resemble the male and female genitalia.

Legend has it that the couple had sailed to ask for the hand of a maiden living on the next island for their son, but on the way home the boat was struck by a storm and the couple perished. The two then magically transformed to become the two rock formations as proof that they came with pure intentions.

The rocky formations are also a favorite spot for fishing, while for those not inclined to fish small souvenir stalls line the path leading to the famed rocks, selling the area's traditional dodol (taffy made of sticky rice, coconut milk and palm sugar), or galamae as it is known in the local language.

Bangkok Airways provide a free half-day tour around the island, visiting the places mentioned above, until Nov. 15.

While not exactly a shopper's paradise or even a place to enlighten you about Thai culture, Koh Samui is nevertheless a bustling place and visitors should not run out of things to do.

I-BOX If you go

Where: Koh Samui is located 258 nautical miles south of Bangkok on the Gulf of Thailand, and some 84 kilometers east of the provincial capital of Surat Thani.

Getting there: Cathay Pacific (phone 021-5151738, www.cathaypacific.com) has regular return flights from Jakarta to Singapore, where connecting flights with Bangkok Airways (www.bangkokair.com) can be made to Koh Samui. For more details on how to get there please contact Panorama Tours (021-6317020), Avia Tour (021-4215026), Bayu Buana (021-3908390), Smailing Tour (021-3800022), Wita Tour (021-2312338), Vayatour (021-3841601), or Dwidaya Worldwide Tour & Travel (021-2313888).

When to go: There's no best time for visiting Samui as the place is lovely all year round, but for a more enjoyable time you might avoid the peak tourist months between mid-July and mid- September, and expect a bit of rain between November and December.

Getting around: Samui is easy to get around, a trip around the island by car or motorcycle only takes about an hour. Prices for car rentals vary from 800 baht to 2,000 baht depending on the type and condition of the car, and motorcycles can be rented for 120 to 250 baht a day. Local public transportation, called songthaews, is easily accessible. These are converted pick-up trucks, which can be chartered for a small fee. Fares, however, increase sharply after 6 p.m. And of course there are taxis with meters.

Currency: Many places around the island offer currency exchange for most major currencies (US$1 = 43.77 Baht). There are also plenty of ATMs with access to international accounts, and most hotels and eateries accept major credit cards.