Touch of class and a tipple for local wine lovers

JAKARTA: The inevitable onslaught of globalization has brought wine to Indonesia's upper middle class, although it is but a trickle at the moment.

Indonesians are rubbing shoulders with the affluent from newly industrialized Asian economies of Singapore, Japan, Hongkong and Taiwan, where the red and white has been embraced in their lifestyles.

Wine lovers say Indonesia still has a ways to go.

"Compared with other Asian countries, Indonesia is still left far behind in exposure to and appreciation of wine," said William Wongso, a wine connoisseur who set up The Jakarta Wine Society.

Few Indonesians get together to taste new vintages over good conversation, and The Jakarta Wine Society is now inactive due to lack of support from members.

Still, there are some dedicated wine tasters. In a large home in South Jakarta, a concealed door in a front room leads to a wine cellar stacked with vintages. The owner savors his wine at a special table in the corner. The carefully regulated temperature of the cellar ensures the quality of the wine remains constant.

Wine is starting to flow at gatherings of the upper middle class. At Christmas and New Year's parties, wine and champagne are almost always served. Wine is also served at a business dinner parties and gatherings, agreed Brian Yaputra, president director of Glass Design Center, and businessman Eddy Hinuhili.

At the gatherings, some participants bring their own wine to be tasted by the whole group. They discuss the vintage, the bouquet and the taste of each bottle.

Wine is a drink for socializing, and it carries its own tradition and reputation. It has glamor, a touch of class, aristocracy and smacks of things classic.

"I choose wine to enjoy with colleagues for socializing," said Ted Sulisto, president director of Ted Sulisto Design.

Bambang Nitiwaluyo, president director of Alexander Graha Motor, said he enjoyed wine with his steak in addition to drinking it with colleagues at evening gatherings.

Nitiwaluyo first became acquainted with wine in 1982 at business events. He gradually became a connoisseur, and says a gathering without wine "is just like a dish without salt". He keeps his own collection at home.

"The bottles must be placed lying down to ensure that the cork will remain wet, or else the wine will evaporate," he said, adding that Indonesia's tropical climate meant most wine could only be stored for two years before spoiling.

Yaputra, 49, agreed with Nitiwaluyo that wine was good for health as it improved circulation. This is a commonly held belief among wine lovers, especially since research found that Frenchmen, most of whom drink wine every day, are healthier than Americans, who prefer beer, even though the former's diet is rich in fat.

Yaputra, who believes French wine is best, gives his own stamp of approval for the benefits of the drink.

"Wine positively affects the intimate relationship between a husband and wife."

Could this be why Frenchmen are known as hopeless romantics?

PT Dharma Niaga is the only company in Indonesia licensed to import wine. Distribution is handled by PT Tebet Indraya, PT Bima Sena and PT Aneka Mulia. This policy plus luxury goods taxes have made the price of wine relatively high in Indonesia.

"As the supply of wine depends on only a few distributors, the variety of wine available in Indonesia is limited, generally hailing from France, California and Australia," said Rachmad Zulkarnaen, F & B assistant manager of the Grand Hyatt in Jakarta. "Exclusive wine usually collected by wine connoisseurs is difficult to obtain and the price has become very high."

He said many hotel guests drank wine before dinner. The Grand Hyatt, he said, requires 20 to 30 bottles of wine a day for its restaurant, cafe, coffee shop, bar and pub.

He said that most guests order wine by the glass, although some buy wine to take home at a price of between Rp 170,000 and Rp 400,000 per bottle.

Wine is also popular at the Regent Hotel, Jakarta. According to PR manager Nuni S. Rasad, the hotel needs 120 to 150 bottles of wine a week.

At Lawry's the Prime Rib restaurant at Senayan Plaza, wine is a selling point to attract visitors, said staffer Erwin. The restaurant serves wine only in the evening, he said, adding the average price of a bottle is Rp 300,000 on average.

Choosing the right wine, just like selecting a life partner, is an art.

William Wongso, who has observed the behavior of many Indonesians who drink wine, said some people were guilty of making silly mistakes. Some get drunk on wine, he said, when the drink should rightfully be savored.

A wine steward, or sommelier, can help novices with their choices. He can explain the particular qualities of a vintage, and how to drink it for full benefit.

He may give the following tip for full enjoyment of the drink. Hold the stem of the wine glass so that the warmth of the hand does not damage the quality of the wine. Raise the glass slowly, exhale and enjoy the aroma from the wine in the glass.

Shake the glass slowly and look at it closely. There should be a strong bouquet. Savor this for a moment, and it should make the first sip even more potent.

The above is an excerpt from the forthcoming issue of Tiara lifestyle biweekly. The full article, plus sidebars, will be available at newsstands this Wednesday. It is printed here courtesy of Tiara.