Tornado Coffee: More than just a trend

Tornado Coffee: More than just a trend

Leony Aurora, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

If anything can be said about Tornado Coffee, it's that it is
based on a strong concept and a confidence that it has what it
takes to survive.

Otherwise, Herson Suindah, who owns the place, would not have
ordered two containers of paper cups -- basically enough to fill
four 2.5-meter-by-3-meter bedrooms -- from the United States.

"We've been open for five years and we haven't finished half
of the supply yet," Eko Suprianto, the employee entrusted with
running the business while the owner was studying abroad, said
with a chuckle.

Tornado is perhaps not big and it's certainly in a bit of an
obscure location, hidden by the brilliant lights of the cafes
standing beside it along Jl. Bangka, close to the chic Kemang
area.

The interior is rather cramped with six tables inside, each
surrounded by three wooden chairs. Warm lighting illuminates the
yellow and orange walls and reddish tiles. A few more tables
stand outside.

"Our concept is to sell just coffee," said Supri, as Suprianto
is familiarly known by just about everyone.

"People can come in and grab a coffee on the way to the office,
and we'll provide them with service as quick as a tornado," he
said laughing.

The American concept of drinking coffee, as often featured in
Hollywood movies -- doesn't it look so hectically cool when
someone balances a coffee in one hand while clutching a bunch of
important looking papers in the other? -- and the mushrooming
popularity of Starbucks in the United States, were what inspired
Herson to open Tornado.

Apparently, there are enough foreigners in Jakarta to make the
concept work. The coffee house sees most customers before 10 a.m.
as many foreigners stroll in to get a cup of black coffee or a
caffe latte to fend off the morning jitters.

To differentiate its coffee from all the others, Herson has
formulated its own blend, comprising Sumatra, Sulawesi and
Columbia beans. The specials include the caramel macchiato and
the Tornado blend, sold at between Rp 12,500 (US$1.35) and Rp
20,000 a cup.

"I'm very picky about my coffee. It must have a heavy body, a
well-balanced acidity, and a good aftertaste," said Yogi, a
regular customer, who was grateful to find the place after
returning home from Australia two years ago.

"I think this is the only local place that really understands
coffee," said the 32-year-old self-proclaimed coffee addict, who
needs seven cups of espresso a day to function properly.

It's true, Herson really understands coffee, said Supri. The
owner acts as Tornado's personal technician for the coffee
machine, on call anytime there is a problem.

"He assembled the coffee machine when it came in," said Supri.
"He knows what to turn and how far to turn it, what to open and
everything."

Tornado remains true to its concept, even when dealing with
another kind of customer: Indonesians, who come in after work and
linger for hours to chat smoke, and wait for the traffic to ease.

Instead of selling "real" food -- it does have several bakery
products on display -- Tornado allows customers to order food
from outside, either from the restaurants adjacent to the coffee
shop or from passing food vendors -- just like home.

"I like being here. This place is not pretentious," said Esti,
another regular customer, as she waited for her fried rice to
arrive.

"The staff here are friendly, unlike in ***," she said, naming
one of the biggest names in the coffee business.

Tornado feels so much like home that regulars like Esti and
Yogi can stay for hours after midnight, when the shop is supposed
to be closed.

"We don't mind waiting on the customers. They feel they belong
here, and we like that," said Supri.

With Westerners and locals satisfied, it is not a big surprise
that Tornado is already planning to open another outlet in
Kemang.

Perhaps, Herson should consider ordering several more
containers of paper cups -- he's likely to run out of the ones in
storage sooner than expected.