Tornado Coffee: More than just a trend
Leony Aurora, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta
If anything can be said about Tornado Coffee, it's that it is based on a strong concept and a confidence that it has what it takes to survive.
Otherwise, Herson Suindah, who owns the place, would not have ordered two containers of paper cups -- basically enough to fill four 2.5-meter-by-3-meter bedrooms -- from the United States.
"We've been open for five years and we haven't finished half of the supply yet," Eko Suprianto, the employee entrusted with running the business while the owner was studying abroad, said with a chuckle.
Tornado is perhaps not big and it's certainly in a bit of an obscure location, hidden by the brilliant lights of the cafes standing beside it along Jl. Bangka, close to the chic Kemang area.
The interior is rather cramped with six tables inside, each surrounded by three wooden chairs. Warm lighting illuminates the yellow and orange walls and reddish tiles. A few more tables stand outside.
"Our concept is to sell just coffee," said Supri, as Suprianto is familiarly known by just about everyone.
"People can come in and grab a coffee on the way to the office, and we'll provide them with service as quick as a tornado," he said laughing.
The American concept of drinking coffee, as often featured in Hollywood movies -- doesn't it look so hectically cool when someone balances a coffee in one hand while clutching a bunch of important looking papers in the other? -- and the mushrooming popularity of Starbucks in the United States, were what inspired Herson to open Tornado.
Apparently, there are enough foreigners in Jakarta to make the concept work. The coffee house sees most customers before 10 a.m. as many foreigners stroll in to get a cup of black coffee or a caffe latte to fend off the morning jitters.
To differentiate its coffee from all the others, Herson has formulated its own blend, comprising Sumatra, Sulawesi and Columbia beans. The specials include the caramel macchiato and the Tornado blend, sold at between Rp 12,500 (US$1.35) and Rp 20,000 a cup.
"I'm very picky about my coffee. It must have a heavy body, a well-balanced acidity, and a good aftertaste," said Yogi, a regular customer, who was grateful to find the place after returning home from Australia two years ago.
"I think this is the only local place that really understands coffee," said the 32-year-old self-proclaimed coffee addict, who needs seven cups of espresso a day to function properly.
It's true, Herson really understands coffee, said Supri. The owner acts as Tornado's personal technician for the coffee machine, on call anytime there is a problem.
"He assembled the coffee machine when it came in," said Supri. "He knows what to turn and how far to turn it, what to open and everything."
Tornado remains true to its concept, even when dealing with another kind of customer: Indonesians, who come in after work and linger for hours to chat smoke, and wait for the traffic to ease.
Instead of selling "real" food -- it does have several bakery products on display -- Tornado allows customers to order food from outside, either from the restaurants adjacent to the coffee shop or from passing food vendors -- just like home.
"I like being here. This place is not pretentious," said Esti, another regular customer, as she waited for her fried rice to arrive.
"The staff here are friendly, unlike in ***," she said, naming one of the biggest names in the coffee business.
Tornado feels so much like home that regulars like Esti and Yogi can stay for hours after midnight, when the shop is supposed to be closed.
"We don't mind waiting on the customers. They feel they belong here, and we like that," said Supri.
With Westerners and locals satisfied, it is not a big surprise that Tornado is already planning to open another outlet in Kemang.
Perhaps, Herson should consider ordering several more containers of paper cups -- he's likely to run out of the ones in storage sooner than expected.