Tienuk Rifky, Yogyakarta's royal make-up woman

Ridlo Aryanto, Contributor, Yogyakarta

Feelings of unease briefly gripped distinguished guests and court servants at Yogyakarta's royal wedding procession on Tuesday, May 28 as strong winds blew around the court buildings.

The unexpected gusts of wind even toppled a pair of tall palm fronds at the court's gate, where Yogyakarta's Sultan Hamengkubuwono X welcomed President Megawati Soekarnoputri to witness the royal couple -- the king's eldest daughter Gusti Kanjeng Ratu Pembayun with Kanjeng Pangeran Harya Wironegoro.

The royal couple's make-up artist, Tienuk Rifky, watched the phenomenon with apprehension because she was entrusted to ensure a smooth Javanese wedding procession.

"At the time, I was surprised and thought, 'What's wrong?'. I was afraid the offerings were not complete. But when (the sultan's wife) Gusti Kanjeng Ratu Hemas said it was OK, that it was only the wind, I felt relieved," said the 52-year-old woman, a seasoned expert in traditional bridal make-up who started her career in 1974. She was entrusted with the rare task of dressing and making up the eldest daughter of Yogyakarta's sultan.

"When given this job, ngarsa dalem (the sultan) reminded me of the need to prepare the ceremonies by observing every detail so that it would become a model for traditional weddings in the Mataram style for Javanese society and the whole nation," she said.

As professional make-up artist, she took the message seriously.

"The key to success in handling bridal make-up is by fulfilling the wishes of those holding the ceremony, including the wishes of the bride and groom. Thank God I know Gusti Kanjeng Ratu Pembayun (the bride) personally, so it's easier for me to meet her wishes," Tienuk said.

Still, she felt necessary to consult BRM Dinu Satomo, a court expert in Javanese protocol and cultural rites, and involved her 22 bridal make-up assistants.

She started working as the palace's make-up specialist in 1982. Tienuk performed several rituals, like fasting on Mondays and Thursdays a month before the wedding ceremony as required by ancient Javanese custom. The rituals are still believed to ensure the wedding's safe and smooth progress.

She even took up ngerowot, a kind of fasting by only eating tubers and crop products, while abstaining from meat to make sure a smooth procession of the grand wedding.

Tienuk's career peaked when she was entrusted as make-up artist for the coronation of Yogyakarta's sultan and his wife in 1989. Before handling the wedding of the sultan's eldest daughter, Tienuk was also assigned to take care of the marriage of Pembayun's younger sister Gusti Raden Ajeng Nurmagupita and Suryokusumo in 1993.

"I've always tried to make the couple appear graceful and radiant with enchanting auras. It's a crucial stage in midodareni (the eve of the wedding) ceremony, where the bride must stay up until midnight before the wedding ceremony takes place to enable angels to enter her body the next day, which will make her appear breathtakingly beautiful during the ceremony," she said.

So how much is she paid by the palace?

"I wouldn't dare ask. As the sultan's subject, entrusted to serve his eldest daughter it is a great and invaluable blessing for me. In fact, serving the palace's royal family is a form of my devotion to my king," said Tienuk, who has often traveled abroad with the sultan's wife on cultural missions.