The timeless allure of Indian dress

The timeless allure of Indian dress

By Pavan Kapoor

JAKARTA (JP): No color is too bright, no hue too dull when it comes to designing Indian apparel. Of all the rage in Indian fashion, the salwar kameez returned with a bang in the early 1980s from the back of the closet in the 1970s.

The salwar kameez, also referred to as a suit, consists of a long shirt, flowing or straight depending on the style, with full length trousers underneath. The cheese on the pizza is the two- and-a-half meter dupatta or selendang sash, which is popular with Indonesians. This is graciously slung across the shoulders and lends exquisite grace and elegance to the ensemble.

Although the traditional sari has never taken its bow from the fashion stage, today's formal attire are indebted to the six meter long sensational national costume of India. Besides sari and salwar kameez, there are also the ghagras and shararas, mid- length bodices over ankle-length skirts.

Since the fashion boom in the late 1980s, formal dress has zoomed back in time and an atmosphere of antiquity has descended. The ethereal apparel of ancient Indian kings queens and princesses now march along international catwalks. Designers have plunged headlong into the rich cultural heritage and made copies of the ancient motifs, prints, colors and intricate embroidery, adding a zing of their personal creative style.

The Indian fashion explosion that has blasted the world's catwalks reflects the upbeat economy of India and the upgraded standard of living in the country.

How do the expatriate Indians leading hectic social lives in Jakarta satisfy the insatiable appetite of their wardrobes? Every woman has faced the question of how to dress well and dress right for every occasion.

To feed the fashion conscious Indian community and also many Indonesian women a string of exhibitions, mostly small-scale private entrepreneurs, have been set up.

I was amazed to find that more than 50 percent of the clientele were Indonesian women. Although the Indian suit has been popular with here since the 1980s, more and more Indonesians are flocking to these bazaars and sales. The Indian silk and printed chiffon are a particular favorite. Saris are especially popular because they can be altered later.

Recently there was a three-day exhibition by Grace K. and Priscilla K. A variety of formal and informal saris, suits and ghagras were displayed at quite reasonable costs. The latest crushed cotton, chiffon, crepe, tussah silk and silk crepes sold well. The stunning dhabka, gold thread and wire embroidered with stones and beads, have been popular here for a long time.

Vinita Behl, a visiting designer from India, says that "the sky is the limit for a good suit back home. A good formal ensemble can cost anywhere between 40,000 to 50,000 rupees, which is about Rp 3 million to Rp 5 million. People just pick them up in India but are a little more apprehensive here."

As the number of expatriate Indians grows in Indonesia and the steady assimilation of the fashion business continues, more exhibitions will be likely. This is a delightful prospect for Indians who have had to shop at home and then return with bags and suitcases screaming at the seams.