The timeless allure of Indian dress

The timeless allure of Indian dress

By Pavan Kapoor

JAKARTA (JP): No color is too bright, no hue too dull when it
comes to designing Indian apparel. Of all the rage in Indian
fashion, the salwar kameez returned with a bang in the early
1980s from the back of the closet in the 1970s.

The salwar kameez, also referred to as a suit, consists of a
long shirt, flowing or straight depending on the style, with full
length trousers underneath. The cheese on the pizza is the two-
and-a-half meter dupatta or selendang sash, which is popular with
Indonesians. This is graciously slung across the shoulders and
lends exquisite grace and elegance to the ensemble.

Although the traditional sari has never taken its bow from the
fashion stage, today's formal attire are indebted to the six
meter long sensational national costume of India. Besides sari
and salwar kameez, there are also the ghagras and shararas, mid-
length bodices over ankle-length skirts.

Since the fashion boom in the late 1980s, formal dress has
zoomed back in time and an atmosphere of antiquity has descended.
The ethereal apparel of ancient Indian kings queens and
princesses now march along international catwalks. Designers have
plunged headlong into the rich cultural heritage and made copies
of the ancient motifs, prints, colors and intricate embroidery,
adding a zing of their personal creative style.

The Indian fashion explosion that has blasted the world's
catwalks reflects the upbeat economy of India and the upgraded
standard of living in the country.

How do the expatriate Indians leading hectic social lives in
Jakarta satisfy the insatiable appetite of their wardrobes? Every
woman has faced the question of how to dress well and dress right
for every occasion.

To feed the fashion conscious Indian community and also many
Indonesian women a string of exhibitions, mostly small-scale
private entrepreneurs, have been set up.

I was amazed to find that more than 50 percent of the
clientele were Indonesian women. Although the Indian suit has
been popular with here since the 1980s, more and more Indonesians
are flocking to these bazaars and sales. The Indian silk and
printed chiffon are a particular favorite. Saris are especially
popular because they can be altered later.

Recently there was a three-day exhibition by Grace K. and
Priscilla K. A variety of formal and informal saris, suits and
ghagras were displayed at quite reasonable costs. The latest
crushed cotton, chiffon, crepe, tussah silk and silk crepes sold
well. The stunning dhabka, gold thread and wire embroidered with
stones and beads, have been popular here for a long time.

Vinita Behl, a visiting designer from India, says that "the
sky is the limit for a good suit back home. A good formal
ensemble can cost anywhere between 40,000 to 50,000 rupees, which
is about Rp 3 million to Rp 5 million. People just pick them up
in India but are a little more apprehensive here."

As the number of expatriate Indians grows in Indonesia and the
steady assimilation of the fashion business continues, more
exhibitions will be likely. This is a delightful prospect for
Indians who have had to shop at home and then return with bags
and suitcases screaming at the seams.