The spice is right at meradelima in Pondok Indah
The spice is right at meradelima in Pondok Indah
Stevie Emilia, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta
A friend's glowing recommendation or good reviews in local newspapers are usually my reason to give a new restaurant a try. But in my most recent culinary outing, it was a glaring red signpost that grabbed my attention to meradelima, a new restaurant that boasts authentic Peranakan cuisine.
Passing by it on my way home one night, I promised myself to visit this restaurant, offering the rich blend of Chinese and Malay culinary traditions which grew up in the port cities of Malaysia, particularly Malacca, and Singapore.
Besides, after reviewing a book on the traditional kebaya (blouse) of the Nyonya or Nonya -- the women of the community -- I was intrigued to try their food, too.
And despite the proximity of Indonesia to its Southeast Asian neighbors, there is no Peranakan establishment serving the cuisine (Indonesia's own variety of Chinese-Malay cuisine is a slightly different matter). Even if there are occasional Peranakan food promotions at local hotels, with expert chefs brought over from Malaysia, they cost a pretty penny.
I decided to visit on a Friday a bit after lunchtime, just in case the restaurant has plenty of noon regulars who would make it hard to get a seat. It would also be hard to savor my food if there was a line of impatient prospective diners waiting for a table.
It proved to be the perfect time to find a place. As we stepped into the Oriental-style restaurant and were escorted to our table, only three tables were still occupied, not bad considering that the restaurant is still relatively new, only about two to three months in operation.
The waitress was quick to apologize when handing us the simple menu on photocopied paper -- instead of the usual glossy paper in leather folder -- and told us the official opening would be later this month.
At first, we planned to give the starters a try, but after being stuck in traffic on the way to Pondok Indah, we decided to skip them.
We chose to sip on cold drinks and sample otak-otak puteh -- fish cake mixed with spices and coconut milk, wrapped in banana leaf and grilled over a charcoal fire and served with peanut sauce -- before making our main course orders.
As we waited, something came up. It turned out that our right- on-time planning was not, for the restaurant was preparing to host a party for about 100 people and our table was blocking the way.
My uneasy feeling vanished with the apologetic smiles and consoling words from the waitress as she ushered us to another, much more comfortable table on the other side.
The quick, attentive service by the waitresses in traditional dress is a major plus of this restaurant. Soon sitting comfortably at our new table, the drinks and the food arrived. Since we were set on getting the most complete picture of Peranakan food, as the restaurant claims, we ordered different items from the menu.
Our first order of clear oxtail soup came in a small frying pan-shaped burner with crackers. It was satisfying, with tender meat and a generous portion. It also was not greasy, the major drawback of this dish in less skilled hands, which can make you feel you have sinned and must do something to get rid of the fat.
Although tempted, I passed on the popular Singapore dish nasi lemak (coconut flavored steamed rice, served with various side dishes and peanut sauce) since I had tried it many times on visits to the city-state.
Instead, I went for lontong terang bulan (rice cakes in spicy coconut milk served with side dishes) and I was not disappointed. The meal was as I expected it to be, not too spicy but rich in flavor and an ample portion, true to the spirit of traditional home cooking where families eat together to dine to their heart's content.
My next venture was a favorite Malay food, satay, with some added Peranakan richness. The satay, though sprinkled with a red chili sauce, was not as hot as some might fear, but it was nowhere near as sweet as the usual satay dressings.
Two thumbs up for the restaurant's ayam panggang mertua (grilled chicken with spices) and tahu bakar (grilled tofu served with a meradelima's special sauce), which I ordered on the waitress's recommendation.
The grilled chicken, slowly cooked over a charcoal fire, was really worth the wait. The mix of rich spices and coconut milk could be tasted from the first tender bite.
And the tofu was excellent. Served in a four-piece portion, the grilled tofu, so soft in the center, had a drizzle of red sauce and was sprinkled with shredded lemongrass. It was a spicy but sweet treat, its taste lingering on the palate.
Satisfied with our meal, we decided we should give a miss to the tempting traditional sweets on offer.
When we asked for the bill, it turned out that our venture into Peranakan cuisine was a reasonable one, as it cost us only about Rp 190,000. Stepping out of the restaurant, as the soft keroncong music faded into the distance, I felt like I had just finished a meal at the home of a wealthy Peranakan family, and come away fully satisfied.
I-box --------------------------- meradelima Jl. Metro Duta Pondok Indah Plaza I, Blok UA, Kav. 7-8 South Jakarta Tel: 021-75909273/759-09261 Open daily, 10 a.m. - 10 p.m. ---------------------------------