The spice is right at meradelima in Pondok Indah
The spice is right at meradelima in Pondok Indah
Stevie Emilia, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta
A friend's glowing recommendation or good reviews in local
newspapers are usually my reason to give a new restaurant a try.
But in my most recent culinary outing, it was a glaring red
signpost that grabbed my attention to meradelima, a new
restaurant that boasts authentic Peranakan cuisine.
Passing by it on my way home one night, I promised myself to
visit this restaurant, offering the rich blend of Chinese and
Malay culinary traditions which grew up in the port cities of
Malaysia, particularly Malacca, and Singapore.
Besides, after reviewing a book on the traditional kebaya
(blouse) of the Nyonya or Nonya -- the women of the community --
I was intrigued to try their food, too.
And despite the proximity of Indonesia to its Southeast Asian
neighbors, there is no Peranakan establishment serving the
cuisine (Indonesia's own variety of Chinese-Malay cuisine is a
slightly different matter). Even if there are occasional
Peranakan food promotions at local hotels, with expert chefs
brought over from Malaysia, they cost a pretty penny.
I decided to visit on a Friday a bit after lunchtime, just in
case the restaurant has plenty of noon regulars who would make it
hard to get a seat. It would also be hard to savor my food if
there was a line of impatient prospective diners waiting for a
table.
It proved to be the perfect time to find a place. As we
stepped into the Oriental-style restaurant and were escorted to
our table, only three tables were still occupied, not bad
considering that the restaurant is still relatively new, only
about two to three months in operation.
The waitress was quick to apologize when handing us the simple
menu on photocopied paper -- instead of the usual glossy paper in
leather folder -- and told us the official opening would be later
this month.
At first, we planned to give the starters a try, but after
being stuck in traffic on the way to Pondok Indah, we decided to
skip them.
We chose to sip on cold drinks and sample otak-otak puteh --
fish cake mixed with spices and coconut milk, wrapped in banana
leaf and grilled over a charcoal fire and served with peanut
sauce -- before making our main course orders.
As we waited, something came up. It turned out that our right-
on-time planning was not, for the restaurant was preparing to
host a party for about 100 people and our table was blocking the
way.
My uneasy feeling vanished with the apologetic smiles and
consoling words from the waitress as she ushered us to another,
much more comfortable table on the other side.
The quick, attentive service by the waitresses in traditional
dress is a major plus of this restaurant. Soon sitting
comfortably at our new table, the drinks and the food arrived.
Since we were set on getting the most complete picture of
Peranakan food, as the restaurant claims, we ordered different
items from the menu.
Our first order of clear oxtail soup came in a small frying
pan-shaped burner with crackers. It was satisfying, with tender
meat and a generous portion. It also was not greasy, the major
drawback of this dish in less skilled hands, which can make you
feel you have sinned and must do something to get rid of the fat.
Although tempted, I passed on the popular Singapore dish nasi
lemak (coconut flavored steamed rice, served with various side
dishes and peanut sauce) since I had tried it many times on
visits to the city-state.
Instead, I went for lontong terang bulan (rice cakes in spicy
coconut milk served with side dishes) and I was not disappointed.
The meal was as I expected it to be, not too spicy but rich in
flavor and an ample portion, true to the spirit of traditional
home cooking where families eat together to dine to their heart's
content.
My next venture was a favorite Malay food, satay, with some
added Peranakan richness. The satay, though sprinkled with a red
chili sauce, was not as hot as some might fear, but it was
nowhere near as sweet as the usual satay dressings.
Two thumbs up for the restaurant's ayam panggang mertua
(grilled chicken with spices) and tahu bakar (grilled tofu served
with a meradelima's special sauce), which I ordered on the
waitress's recommendation.
The grilled chicken, slowly cooked over a charcoal fire, was
really worth the wait. The mix of rich spices and coconut milk
could be tasted from the first tender bite.
And the tofu was excellent. Served in a four-piece portion,
the grilled tofu, so soft in the center, had a drizzle of red
sauce and was sprinkled with shredded lemongrass. It was a spicy
but sweet treat, its taste lingering on the palate.
Satisfied with our meal, we decided we should give a miss to
the tempting traditional sweets on offer.
When we asked for the bill, it turned out that our venture
into Peranakan cuisine was a reasonable one, as it cost us only
about Rp 190,000. Stepping out of the restaurant, as the soft
keroncong music faded into the distance, I felt like I had just
finished a meal at the home of a wealthy Peranakan family, and
come away fully satisfied.
I-box
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meradelima
Jl. Metro Duta Pondok Indah
Plaza I, Blok UA, Kav. 7-8
South Jakarta
Tel: 021-75909273/759-09261
Open daily, 10 a.m. - 10 p.m.
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