The legend of ancient Chinese shrines in Bali

The legend of ancient Chinese shrines in Bali

By Myra Sidharta

DENPASAR, Bali (JP): The presence of Putri Cina, or Chinese
princesses, in the ancient courts of the archipelago is well
documented. Thousands of worshipers go to Cirebon every year to
bring their offerings to the princess in the Royal Cemetery in
that city.

The shrines in Bali are less well known, but their origins are
probably more interesting. According to one story, legendary
admiral Cheng Ho's cook was stranded in Bali when his ship was
damaged by a storm. Cheng Ho was the eunuch admiral who was sent
by the emperor of China in the early part of the 15th century to
explore several countries. With his armada, he visited numerous
countries in Southeast Asia, venturing as far as Africa and
India.

When in Semarang, Central Java, this cook decided to explore
the island in an attempt to find exotic foods. His ship was
caught in a storm on the south coast of Bali and heavily damaged.
Tan, the cook, then decided to travel to Java overland. When he
arrived in Kintamani in Bali he was so overwhelmed by the beauty
that he decided to stay.

He happened to have a few cloves of garlic in his bag, some
peanuts and some seeds of the lychee fruit. Because of the
fertility of the soil, the seeds took root and soon he had a
small garden.

He married a Balinese woman and the couple had a beautiful
daughter. The young girl was so beautiful she was soon taken into
the king's seraglio. When her father died, she begged the king to
build a shrine in his honor so she could worship her ancestor.
The shrine was built inside a temple compound, but was later
moved outside because ethnic Chinese would visit the shrine
wearing ordinary clothes instead of the attire prescribed for
traditional prayer.

However, when an epidemic swept through the area, the shrine
was moved back inside. This originally was a small shrine which
was in harmony with the rest of the temple, but when a new,
larger shrine is now being constructed. The contents of the
shrine have been placed in the balai, an open building behind the
temple.

A number of statues have been added to the few which were
located inside the once elegant shrine.

A shrine built for a Chinese princess is located in Pura
Balingkang, about 20 kilometers north of Kintamani. The shrine is
located at the end of a long winding road lined with orange
trees. To reach the shrine, one must cross a river, which is
accomplished by the bridge which spans the waters.

This shrine supposedly was constructed in the sixth century
during the reign of king Jayapangus, a benevolent king who heeded
the wishes and needs of his subjects. However, the king had a
wicked son who turned the people against him. The queen died of
sadness because of her son's behavior and king Jayapangus was
overwhelmed by his wife's death.

King Jayapangus had a Chinese adviser in his palace. This man,
called empu Liem, advised the King on political and economical
affairs and also practiced medicine. He also taught the men
martial arts, which they in turn converted into dances.

This old man had a female assistant, a beautiful young Chinese
girl by the name of Kang Cin Wei, and this girl was offered to
the king as a wife, provided the king would file his teeth and
stop eating raw meat.

The king agreed and the two led a happy life. They were often
seen walking together and wherever they went they made the people
happy. The couple brought safety and prosperity to the country.

After a few years it became clear the young woman could not
have children, hence her nickname Dewi Mandul (Barren Goddess).

After the deaths of the couple, the people made puppets in the
likeness of the king and queen, which they would carry in
processions before important festivals, such as Galungan and the
Hindu Day of Silence.

The king was depicted as a dark figure with long teeth, and
Dewi Mandul as a fair woman with a wise and merciful expression.
Symbolically, they are seen as figures that bring prosperity to
the country while at the same time giving protection against evil
spirits.

There may be different versions of the tale, which has never
been recorded as historical fact but has been passed down from
generation to generation. But the Chinese shrine at Pura
Balingkang, which supposedly was named after Kang Chin Wei, still
exists.

Although the shrine is remote and difficult to reach, the
serenity of the location is certainly worth the effort.