The legend of ancient Chinese shrines in Bali

By Myra Sidharta

DENPASAR, Bali (JP): The presence of Putri Cina, or Chinese princesses, in the ancient courts of the archipelago is well documented. Thousands of worshipers go to Cirebon every year to bring their offerings to the princess in the Royal Cemetery in that city.

The shrines in Bali are less well known, but their origins are probably more interesting. According to one story, legendary admiral Cheng Ho's cook was stranded in Bali when his ship was damaged by a storm. Cheng Ho was the eunuch admiral who was sent by the emperor of China in the early part of the 15th century to explore several countries. With his armada, he visited numerous countries in Southeast Asia, venturing as far as Africa and India.

When in Semarang, Central Java, this cook decided to explore the island in an attempt to find exotic foods. His ship was caught in a storm on the south coast of Bali and heavily damaged. Tan, the cook, then decided to travel to Java overland. When he arrived in Kintamani in Bali he was so overwhelmed by the beauty that he decided to stay.

He happened to have a few cloves of garlic in his bag, some peanuts and some seeds of the lychee fruit. Because of the fertility of the soil, the seeds took root and soon he had a small garden.

He married a Balinese woman and the couple had a beautiful daughter. The young girl was so beautiful she was soon taken into the king's seraglio. When her father died, she begged the king to build a shrine in his honor so she could worship her ancestor. The shrine was built inside a temple compound, but was later moved outside because ethnic Chinese would visit the shrine wearing ordinary clothes instead of the attire prescribed for traditional prayer.

However, when an epidemic swept through the area, the shrine was moved back inside. This originally was a small shrine which was in harmony with the rest of the temple, but when a new, larger shrine is now being constructed. The contents of the shrine have been placed in the balai, an open building behind the temple.

A number of statues have been added to the few which were located inside the once elegant shrine.

A shrine built for a Chinese princess is located in Pura Balingkang, about 20 kilometers north of Kintamani. The shrine is located at the end of a long winding road lined with orange trees. To reach the shrine, one must cross a river, which is accomplished by the bridge which spans the waters.

This shrine supposedly was constructed in the sixth century during the reign of king Jayapangus, a benevolent king who heeded the wishes and needs of his subjects. However, the king had a wicked son who turned the people against him. The queen died of sadness because of her son's behavior and king Jayapangus was overwhelmed by his wife's death.

King Jayapangus had a Chinese adviser in his palace. This man, called empu Liem, advised the King on political and economical affairs and also practiced medicine. He also taught the men martial arts, which they in turn converted into dances.

This old man had a female assistant, a beautiful young Chinese girl by the name of Kang Cin Wei, and this girl was offered to the king as a wife, provided the king would file his teeth and stop eating raw meat.

The king agreed and the two led a happy life. They were often seen walking together and wherever they went they made the people happy. The couple brought safety and prosperity to the country.

After a few years it became clear the young woman could not have children, hence her nickname Dewi Mandul (Barren Goddess).

After the deaths of the couple, the people made puppets in the likeness of the king and queen, which they would carry in processions before important festivals, such as Galungan and the Hindu Day of Silence.

The king was depicted as a dark figure with long teeth, and Dewi Mandul as a fair woman with a wise and merciful expression. Symbolically, they are seen as figures that bring prosperity to the country while at the same time giving protection against evil spirits.

There may be different versions of the tale, which has never been recorded as historical fact but has been passed down from generation to generation. But the Chinese shrine at Pura Balingkang, which supposedly was named after Kang Chin Wei, still exists.

Although the shrine is remote and difficult to reach, the serenity of the location is certainly worth the effort.