The historic and natural beauty of Bukittinggi

The historic and natural beauty of Bukittinggi

By Simon Marcus Gower

BUKITTINGGI, West Sumatra (JP): In the shadow of the focal
point of Bukittinggi is Jam Gadang (Great Clock). The chimes of
this clock tower sound the hour in the late afternoon, are
soothing and may even induce sleepiness. However, the cool
climate invigorates, stimulates and wards off sleepiness. At
1,000 meters above sea level, with volcanoes all around,
Bukittinggi enjoys cool temperatures. Jam Gadang stands on a high
point, which in late afternoon can be quite bracing if the winds
blow.

The clock tower is a unique feature of this West Sumatran
town. Built by the Dutch in 1827, it is now topped by a
Minangkabau-style roof (shaped to resemble buffalo horns). This
spiked rooftop alone makes the tower unique but the four faces of
the clock are also unusual.

Roman numerals are used but the number four is not represented
by the Roman figure IV, instead one sees IIII. The arrogant
tourist may scoff and suggest that a mistake has been made, but,
so the story goes, there was no mistake at all. A choice was made
to represent the number four in this way to commemorate four
people died in the construction of the clock tower.

Bukittinggi's unique clock tower has looked down upon
significant changes in its 173 years of timekeeping so far.
Within view of the tower is the birthplace of Bukittinggi's most
famous son -- Mohammad Hatta -- the first vice president of
Indonesia. This wooden house, with its welcoming porch front,
still stands but is now amid the hustle and bustle of a busy
thoroughfare.

Hatta, in his memoirs Indonesian Patriot, wrote of
his home as a restful place from which rice fields and mountain
views could be seen. Modern urban development, however, has
changed this. Born in Bukittinggi in 1902, Hatta wrote that when
he was a boy the town's population was only 2,500; today it must
be 100 times that.

Each day in Bukittinggi, though, the number of people
populating its streets grows because this is a market town and
masses of people travel from surrounding villages to bring their
goods for sale.

The market begins in front of Jam Gadang and has two parts --
Pasar Atas (higher market), mostly in front of Jam Gadang, and
Pasar Bawah (lower market), situated down the hill from Pasar
Atas. However, urban growth has created linear expansion of the
market. One local joked that Bukittinggi now has a market
everywhere because of this expansion. One can walk from Pasar
Atas along a continuum of stalls that number in the hundreds.
The goods on sale are considerable -- from souvenirs and clothing
in Pasar Atas to groceries and farming utensils in Pasar Bawah.
The variety of freshly harvested fruits and vegetables on sale is
a reminder that Bukittinggi is surrounded by a vast amount of
rural land.

A short walk from Jam Gadang is Panorama Park. This public
park overlooks the Ngarai Canyon. This 100-metre-deep and 4-
kilometer-long canyon, with shear vertical walls, is a
spectacular sight, and quite unexpected given that it is so close
to the town center. With the mountains of Merapi and Singgalang
nearby, wilderness and wildlife is brought to the edge of the
town. Macaque monkeys emerge from the trees and bushes to collect
nuts and other scraps of food from visitors.

Bukittinggi's human, and tragic, history can also be
seen in Panorama Park. Here, deep tunnels were excavated during
the World War II occupation by Japanese forces. Today, these
tunnels are called the Japanese Tunnels, but they were excavated
by Indonesian prisoners. A huge amount of work must have gone
into the creation of this complex of tunnels that held offices,
kitchens, eating quarters and ammunition stores.

Now, in this maze of more than twenty "rooms", there is an
eerie emptiness and it is quite a spine-tingling experience to
descend into the depths of the canyon and feel the scored-out
rock. Untold numbers of Indonesian prisoners suffered and even
died as they hacked away at the rock, with nothing but hand
tools, to create these hideaways for a brutal foreign occupier.

Above these tunnels in Panorama Park, an elderly local by the
name of Rais recounted his memories of the Japanese in
Bukittinggi. He, like many others, fled to the countryside before
he could be captured. Thus, he explained, many of the laborers
that worked the tunnels were brought from elsewhere; including
prisoners from Java. At 88 years of age, he had need for his
walking stick and his eyes were strained by the bright sunlight.
But there was strength and pride in his voice as he remembered
attending a local Dutch colonial school.

The unique Jam Gadang is a prominent reminder of colonial
days. Another significant, if less visible, remnant of a colonial
past is Fort de Kock. The fort today is limited; cannons have
been kept and mounted on concrete around the small hill. From
short three- or four-foot weapons to large, heavy 10 foot mighty
cannons, these arms look across the town and beyond.

Otherwise, little of the original fort survives. Human
excavation of a moat and trenches can be seen but there are no
walls or ramparts left. Constructed in 1825, there are few hints
of the fort's violent past.

It was an important defense for the Dutch during the Padri
Wars, which raged for more than 30 years in the 19th Century.
Today, the fort is a restful place; little disturbs the peace
except for a gentle breeze due to its exposed position. Though
quiet, many visitors meander around the fort because it is part
of a joint attraction with Bukittinggi Zoo. Linked to
another hill by a suspension bridge, the fort is now part of the
same public park.

Crossing the suspension bridge, a majestic traditional
Minangkabau house lies directly ahead. With its fine woodcarving
and steeply gabled roof, the house contains the oldest museum in
Sumatra. Established in 1935, the museum is an introduction to
Minangkabau culture with textiles, jewelry and photographic
exhibits.

The natural beauty of West Sumatra brings many visitors to
Bukittinggi. Numerous hotels and homestays cater to the many
backpackers that come here from all over the world. But
Bukittinggi is not just a transit point or stopover; it has
points of interest and historical note to attract the visitor's
attention for more than just a moment.

Occupying a central location in the town is a new and large
international hotel, which may attract conferencing customers
and, thus, the town has a good range of accommodation -- from
small, budget hotels and hostels to international standard
facilities.

For centuries, Bukittinggi has attracted both international
and domestic visitors. The colonials would have been attracted by
the pleasant, cooler climate and domestic travelers, too, seem to
have come to revive their bodies and souls in the pleasant climes
of Bukittinggi.