The historic and natural beauty of Bukittinggi

By Simon Marcus Gower

BUKITTINGGI, West Sumatra (JP): In the shadow of the focal point of Bukittinggi is Jam Gadang (Great Clock). The chimes of this clock tower sound the hour in the late afternoon, are soothing and may even induce sleepiness. However, the cool climate invigorates, stimulates and wards off sleepiness. At 1,000 meters above sea level, with volcanoes all around, Bukittinggi enjoys cool temperatures. Jam Gadang stands on a high point, which in late afternoon can be quite bracing if the winds blow.

The clock tower is a unique feature of this West Sumatran town. Built by the Dutch in 1827, it is now topped by a Minangkabau-style roof (shaped to resemble buffalo horns). This spiked rooftop alone makes the tower unique but the four faces of the clock are also unusual.

Roman numerals are used but the number four is not represented by the Roman figure IV, instead one sees IIII. The arrogant tourist may scoff and suggest that a mistake has been made, but, so the story goes, there was no mistake at all. A choice was made to represent the number four in this way to commemorate four people died in the construction of the clock tower.

Bukittinggi's unique clock tower has looked down upon significant changes in its 173 years of timekeeping so far. Within view of the tower is the birthplace of Bukittinggi's most famous son -- Mohammad Hatta -- the first vice president of Indonesia. This wooden house, with its welcoming porch front, still stands but is now amid the hustle and bustle of a busy thoroughfare.

Hatta, in his memoirs Indonesian Patriot, wrote of his home as a restful place from which rice fields and mountain views could be seen. Modern urban development, however, has changed this. Born in Bukittinggi in 1902, Hatta wrote that when he was a boy the town's population was only 2,500; today it must be 100 times that.

Each day in Bukittinggi, though, the number of people populating its streets grows because this is a market town and masses of people travel from surrounding villages to bring their goods for sale.

The market begins in front of Jam Gadang and has two parts -- Pasar Atas (higher market), mostly in front of Jam Gadang, and Pasar Bawah (lower market), situated down the hill from Pasar Atas. However, urban growth has created linear expansion of the market. One local joked that Bukittinggi now has a market everywhere because of this expansion. One can walk from Pasar Atas along a continuum of stalls that number in the hundreds. The goods on sale are considerable -- from souvenirs and clothing in Pasar Atas to groceries and farming utensils in Pasar Bawah. The variety of freshly harvested fruits and vegetables on sale is a reminder that Bukittinggi is surrounded by a vast amount of rural land.

A short walk from Jam Gadang is Panorama Park. This public park overlooks the Ngarai Canyon. This 100-metre-deep and 4- kilometer-long canyon, with shear vertical walls, is a spectacular sight, and quite unexpected given that it is so close to the town center. With the mountains of Merapi and Singgalang nearby, wilderness and wildlife is brought to the edge of the town. Macaque monkeys emerge from the trees and bushes to collect nuts and other scraps of food from visitors.

Bukittinggi's human, and tragic, history can also be seen in Panorama Park. Here, deep tunnels were excavated during the World War II occupation by Japanese forces. Today, these tunnels are called the Japanese Tunnels, but they were excavated by Indonesian prisoners. A huge amount of work must have gone into the creation of this complex of tunnels that held offices, kitchens, eating quarters and ammunition stores.

Now, in this maze of more than twenty "rooms", there is an eerie emptiness and it is quite a spine-tingling experience to descend into the depths of the canyon and feel the scored-out rock. Untold numbers of Indonesian prisoners suffered and even died as they hacked away at the rock, with nothing but hand tools, to create these hideaways for a brutal foreign occupier.

Above these tunnels in Panorama Park, an elderly local by the name of Rais recounted his memories of the Japanese in Bukittinggi. He, like many others, fled to the countryside before he could be captured. Thus, he explained, many of the laborers that worked the tunnels were brought from elsewhere; including prisoners from Java. At 88 years of age, he had need for his walking stick and his eyes were strained by the bright sunlight. But there was strength and pride in his voice as he remembered attending a local Dutch colonial school.

The unique Jam Gadang is a prominent reminder of colonial days. Another significant, if less visible, remnant of a colonial past is Fort de Kock. The fort today is limited; cannons have been kept and mounted on concrete around the small hill. From short three- or four-foot weapons to large, heavy 10 foot mighty cannons, these arms look across the town and beyond.

Otherwise, little of the original fort survives. Human excavation of a moat and trenches can be seen but there are no walls or ramparts left. Constructed in 1825, there are few hints of the fort's violent past.

It was an important defense for the Dutch during the Padri Wars, which raged for more than 30 years in the 19th Century. Today, the fort is a restful place; little disturbs the peace except for a gentle breeze due to its exposed position. Though quiet, many visitors meander around the fort because it is part of a joint attraction with Bukittinggi Zoo. Linked to another hill by a suspension bridge, the fort is now part of the same public park.

Crossing the suspension bridge, a majestic traditional Minangkabau house lies directly ahead. With its fine woodcarving and steeply gabled roof, the house contains the oldest museum in Sumatra. Established in 1935, the museum is an introduction to Minangkabau culture with textiles, jewelry and photographic exhibits.

The natural beauty of West Sumatra brings many visitors to Bukittinggi. Numerous hotels and homestays cater to the many backpackers that come here from all over the world. But Bukittinggi is not just a transit point or stopover; it has points of interest and historical note to attract the visitor's attention for more than just a moment.

Occupying a central location in the town is a new and large international hotel, which may attract conferencing customers and, thus, the town has a good range of accommodation -- from small, budget hotels and hostels to international standard facilities.

For centuries, Bukittinggi has attracted both international and domestic visitors. The colonials would have been attracted by the pleasant, cooler climate and domestic travelers, too, seem to have come to revive their bodies and souls in the pleasant climes of Bukittinggi.