The favorite designers who make the stars sparkle
By Agni Amorita
JAKARTA (JP): Elizabeth Hurley is pretty. But a few years ago she was known only as a fashionable girl about town from Britain and the girlfriend of actor Hugh Grant.
She opened a new page in her life when she wore a violet gown designed by Gianni Versace to the London premiere of a Grant film. The long dress was split down both sides and held together with decorative safety pins, revealing Hurley's beautiful body. In short, Liz came into the limelight that evening. Many believe that her landing a lucrative advertising contract for Estee Lauder and picked-up fortunes as a Hollywood actress were due to the huge media exposure from that dress.
When you talk about the relationship between Indonesian celebrities and their favorite designer, you must talk about Samuel Wattimena, 36. After winning a national fashion designing competition in 1979, he became the favorite among Jakarta artists for their exclusive stage costumes.
"I used to specialize in designing artists' dresses. Almost all Indonesian singers taking part in international festivals came to me to have their costumes designed," boasted Sammy, the intimate name of this young man who hails from Ambon, last week, after attending to the costume ordered by well-known singer Andi Meriam Mattalata.
Sammy said his customers included Djatu Parmawati, Lex's Trio, Titik Hamzah, Broery Marantika, Vina Panduwinata, Chrisye, Harvey Malaiholo, Utha Likumahua, Hetty Koes Endang and even AB Three. Violist Idris Sardi also is a customer.
Sammy's designs are not as expensive as foreign-made dresses and he shows maturity in his designs.
"I do not turn a singer into a model because my point of departure in designing is his or her music or lyrics," he said, adding that a singer's costume must never put the singer in a difficult position or even be more prominent than the character of the voice or music.
Asked why in a number of international festivals the costumes worn by participating singers and designed by Sammy tended to give ethnic nuances, he simply said that it was only a coincidence.
"Ethnic nuances cannot be forced upon a fashion design," he said.
He said most important before starting to design was a profound personal understanding of the client."I must see the artist or their manager in person to find out the preferences." He noted the stage costumes designed for AB Three, the highly popular trio of young girl singers.
Sammy has designed the costumes of the trio -- Rafianola, Widhi Mulia and Lucy Rachmawati -- since they were established five years back.
"At first my concept for this trio was the quality of their dynamic youth. So I designed for them a costume with many details, colors and combinations. To give rise to an active and dynamic impression, the details of the costume and its colors may clash."
The three, who have competed in international music festivals and won awards, are now in their twenties. Sammy has changed his concept by introducing the theme of transition into adulthood, which is reflected in his design by the reduction of details and by the choice of only one harmonious color. A set of costumes designed and made by Sammy costs between Rp 1 million (US$142) and Rp 10 million.
From the generation after Sammy, there also are a few designers popular among today's celebrities. Most outstanding among them are Kanaya Tabitha, 25, and Oscar Lawalata, 22.
Warna vocal group, Kalahari band, actress Peggy Melatisukma and dangdut singer Cucu Cahyati are regular clients of Kanaya Tabitha, who is known for his sexy designs. Kanaya's collection sells well at prices ranging between Rp 600,000 and Rp 1,000,000.
Kanaya's party dresses are most famous among celebrities, particularly ball gowns or slip dresses with spaghetti straps, sometimes completed with such accessories as expensive necklaces or small ornamental combs.
Oscar Lawalata also relies on sexy impressions.
"My concept is indeed to make a woman look sexy but at the same time remain graceful, beautiful and exclusive," said Oscar, the youngest child of comedian Reggy Lawalata. His mother must be his most senior client as most of his clients are middle to upper class young people in Jakarta.
Oscar can make an exclusive set of costumes at prices ranging from Rp 400,000 to Rp 700,000. "Most of the material is plain but the design is created in such a way that it gives a look- different image," he said.
His clients include actresses/singers Nafa Urbach, Titi DJ, Dewi Gita, Melly Manuhutu, Dewi Sandra Killick and GIGI rock group. "Artists often order their costume at a very short notice. So I am ready with my speedy service. In one week, at most, the costume ordered is ready to collect.
One of his most sensational designs is a sleeveless pleated gown worn by Melly Manuhutu in the video clip for her new single. This gown, which reminds people of Marilyn Monroe's costume in the Seven Year Itch, is so provocative that it almost slipped off when Melly shook her hips.