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Thai silk a statement of style and diplomacy

| Source: SYAHMEDI DEAN

Thai silk a statement of style and diplomacy

Syahmedi Dean, Contributor/Jakarta

Thai silk is one of the most popular fabrics among fashion designers, at least in Indonesia.

Clothing made of Thai silk exude an impression of chicness, as this fabric -- made in Thailand from the cocoons of Thai silkworms that feed on Thai mulberry leaves -- has a luxurious sheen and a natural texture.

The popularity of Thai silk in Indonesia reached new heights at the Swasdee Muang Thai, or "Congratulations, Thailand", fashion show on Sept. 6, when 15 designers of the Indonesian Fashion Designers Council -- sponsored by the Thai government -- unveiled their creative interpretations of the fabric in the ballroom of the Hotel Hilton Jakarta.

The show was sponsored by the Thai government and organized by Ambassador of Thailand to Indonesia Atchara Seriputra to commemorate the 55th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Indonesia and Thailand, and appeared donned in the uniquely Indonesian kebaya, a traditional blouse, over a wraparound skirt of Thai silk.

In her key note speech, Seriputra said that relations between Indonesia and Thailand would become ever stronger with this show, adding, "I'm lucky enough to be a female envoy, so I have a reason to celebrate an important event with a fashion show."

The popularity of Thai silk is inseparable from the efforts made by Her Majesty Queen Sirikit. In the 1960s, when the queen traveled frequently all over the globe with the King of Thailand, she saw how the Indian sari and the Japanese kimono could represent the identity of their nations of origin. It struck the queen that Thailand should have its own national identity, an idea which prompted her to wear only Thai silk clothing on her international trips -- and thereby promoting Thai silk the world over.

"The popularity of Thai silk is attributed to Queen Sirikit's efforts. As far as I know, she always gives Thai silk as a state souvenir every time she visits a foreign country," said designer Didi Budiarjo, who presented his pieces for the House of Prajudi.

Didi chose Thai silk in bright fuchsia to create a Victorian blouse with a matching full skirt, the current rave. He gave the outfit an Indonesian touch with a belt of Nusa Tenggara textile, secured with a large gold buckle, and a skirt-train in the same textile.

Thai silk is such a favorite among Indonesian designers that many cannot recall when they first used this fabric in their designs. Didi gave up the attempt laughing, and Sebastian Gunawan also could not recall his introduction to Thai silk.

For this show, Sebastian sent down the catwalk an elegant orange gown that evoked the full figure of a woman from the Mediterranean.

"This fabric allows me to create designs with a strong structure. This is what I like about Thai silk," said Sebastian, a graduate of the Instituto Marangoni in Milan, Italy.

Deny Wirawan remembered that he first used Thai silk in 1998: "That was the first time I took part in a fashion show for the Indonesian Fashion Designers Council." Thai silk is Deny's preferred fabric, as it is an ideal medium for his printed motifs.

"Actually, we (Indonesia) also have very good silk fabrics, and of great variety. The problem is that only a few parties are financially strong enough to promote these materials," said designer Tuty Cholid, who presented two evening gowns with an asymmetrical cut.

As the commissioner of Prima Silk Cooperative, an organization that collaborates with the government to develop silk cultivation, Tuty has been promoting the fabric actively. Later this month, she added, Prima Silk would exhibit Indonesian silk at the Trend Indonesia 2006 Show.

As part of the anniversary program, the Jakarta Hilton is also hosting a product exhibit by OTOP (One Tambon, One Product), which promotes Thai grassroots economies, along with a Thai food festival, from Sept. 7 through Sept. 11.

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