'Tangkiwood' fades in time
Ida Indawati Khouw, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta
Legendary comedian, the late Bing Slamet jokingly called the alleyways in Tangki subdistrict, Mangga Besar in downtown Kota, West Jakarta, "Tangkiwood" back in the 1950s.
This was because Tangkiwood was a focal point for popular performing artists at the time.
Fifty years on, the area is still called Tangkiwood. But it is no longer inhabited by the country's best drama players. It is just an ordinary slum like many other parts of Jakarta.
Why did the artists live there? There is no complete explanation available except stories from artists who once lived there.
Tangkiwood's history began after the establishment of makeshift accommodation for members of a drama group led by Musa Sardi, the father of popular violinist Idris Sardi. The group performed regularly at the Princen Park amusement center, now Lokasari, a popular shopping center in Mangga Besar.
"Princen Park boss, Tan In Hie, built modest sheds at Tangki Lio (as the area was called at that time) near the park, for the group members. They (the members) would usually spend nights on the stage when performances took place," said the 66-year-old Lailasari, the only artist who is still residing near Tangkiwood, at Gang Badilah I.
Princen Park was an amusement center built during the Dutch colonial era. It existed until the 1960s when its popularity faded and many of the stars had died. Various entertainment spots were provided in the open area including movies, an open-air hall for performances and restaurants.
Lailasari, whose parents were members of the drama group, said more and more artists moved there to enable them to play at Princen Park.
Tangkiwood became more popular when the artists joined the film industry. Alwi Shahab named some of the popular film stars in his book Robin Hood Betawi including Rukiah, Raden Muchtar, Astaman, Amang Rahman, Wolly Sutinah and also Bi Supi who once stayed in the area.
Although the area became an artist's enclave, there was no improvement in living conditions.
Artist Aminah Cendrakasih, daughter of Wolly Sutinah, recalled how difficult it was even to find proper toilets or clean water.
"Not all houses had private toilets, thus we would go to nearby Kali Lio river for our daily needs," said Aminah, 63, who resided there in the 1950s.
She also described the area as consisting of narrow semi- permanent houses.
But for Lailasari, the comedian who is popularly called "old lady rocker", Tangkiwood was a nice place with friendly inhabitants.
"We always heard the sound of musicians playing in their houses. The neighborhood was always alive specially when we had 'parties' in open spaces to greet visiting artists (who lived outside the area, as well as foreign artists). We just collected money to finance the parties," she said.
Lailasari was clearing the gutter in front of her narrow and simple house when met by The Jakarta Post recently.
Tangkiwood is now one of the poorer neighborhoods in Jakarta. Houses are built really close to each other and there is an unpleasant smell from the stagnant water in the gutters along the complex surrounding it.
It is difficult to find it now. The only way to find it is by asking old people in the Lokasari area.