Mon, 06 Oct 2003

Tampaksiring for ASEAN meet

The Jakarta Post, Nusa Dua, Bali

Nestling amid the breathtaking scenery of Gianyar's mountainous art village, cool climate and green, terraced, rice fields, Tampaksiring Palace, some 40 kilometers east of Bali's provincial capital, Denpasar, is ready to welcome 14 heads of state from ASEAN member countries plus China, Japan, South Korea and India, at a lavish state dinner hosted by President Megawati Soekarnoputri on the night of Oct. 7.

Almost abandoned by former president Soeharto during the New Order period, many parts of the palace were in a dilapidated condition, with paint peeling from walls, dusty wooden furniture, threadbare carpets and dirty floors.

Renovation to the exterior and interior of buildings, involving more than 500 workers, was still ongoing last week to transform the gloomy palace into a glamorous, yet welcoming retreat for the President and her state guests.

"All work had to be finished by Friday afternoon (Oct. 3) when Ibu Megawati inspected the site," said Sunaryo, one of the workers who had been toiling round the clock to meet the deadline set by the presidential office in Jakarta.

The arrival of hundreds of security personnel occasionally disrupted the renovations. "We have to pass through tightly guarded security checkpoints. They even inspect our nasi bungkus (takeaway rice, meat and vegetables)," a worker complained.

Originally built in l957, Tampaksiring Palace was the brainchild of Indonesia's founding president, Sukarno, the late father of President Megawati. The pristine beauty of the Tampaksiring area impressed the half-Balinese Sukarno. Adjacent to the palace is a sacred fountain and Hindu temple, Tirta Empul. Construction of the four palace compounds was completed in l963. The palace comprises four main buildings, Wisma Merdeka (3,200 square meters), Wisma Negara (2,000 square meters), Wisma Yudhistira and a large auditorium.

A 40-meter bridge connects Wisma Merdeka and Wisma Negara. The bridge is known as Jembatan Persahabatan (the bridge of friendship). Usually, state guests were taken to the bridge to symbolize the friendship between the host and guest countries. Official photo sessions were frequently held there.

Since Megawati took power in 2001, the palace, once her father's favorite retreat, received special attention. During Soeharto's days, the First Family hardly ever went to or entertained their guests at the Palace, previously filled with precious artwork, including classical Balinese paintings, wooden carvings and statues. Sukarno was known to be an ardent art lover and collector.

Megawati resurrected the tradition of inviting state guests to the palace. More than that, she frequently used the palace for family purposes.

The palace, usually open to the public, was closed for renovation and for security reasons. The decision to temporarily close the palace has made life difficult for many kiosk vendors. Lines of souvenir kiosks, which used to occupy a plot of land nearby the palace, could no longer survive because visitors did not arrive to buy the handicrafts and other souvenirs they had for sale.

"In the past, people could go to the shaded park inside the palace grounds and enjoy a family picnic there. It also attracted tourists and art lovers who could admire the abundant paintings," said a kiosk trader.

This was in addition to the thousands of Hindu worshipers who visited Tirta Empul temple during its anniversary, which occurs every six-and-a-half months, in accordance with the Balinese calendar.

In the last few days, hundreds of security officials have arrived at the palace to install safety equipment and protect it from any possible security threats.

The route between Nusa Dua and Tampaksiring Palace has been isolated from any possible disturbance. During the rainy season, the winding and narrow roads heading to the palace will be slippery, creating difficulties for guests' limousines.

Schools, government offices, small souvenir shops and boutiques located close to the palace will also be closed on Oct. 7.

"I hope that this will be over soon because it will affect small businesses. The closure of these roads will also disrupt public transportation and the people who live in Kintamani, above the palace," said Gusti Arta.

On the other hand, students from the junior high school in Tampaksiring, located in front of the palace entrance gate, looked cheerful because the local authority decided that all schools in the area would be closed on Oct. 7 and Oct. 8.

In Bali, which strongly adheres to Hinduism, all ceremonies, meetings and gatherings must be preceded by special rituals.

The current ASEAN Summit meeting is very important to the Indonesian government for it to show to the world that Bali is safe again. Therefore, religious leaders from all over Bali gathered in Tampaksiring to hold a special ritual to ask for permission and protection from the Divine powers that guard the island and its people.

It is hoped that the upcoming state dinner will run smoothly and the respected heads of state can enjoy both the beauty of Tampaksiring Palace and the food, of course.