Susan's handbags celebrate femininity

Maria Endah Hulupi, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

For bag designer Susan Santoso every fabric has a story to tell, and through her Biru label she translates each of these stories into functional, yet stylish beaded handbags that radiate a feminine flair.

Biru, in the words of the designer, celebrates femininity and was created for modern and active women who enjoy being feminine.

"This is why I use mostly soft colors like pink and cream for my handbags. There are no glaring color combinations," Susan said during the recent launch of her Biru boutique on the ground floor of Plaza Indonesia in Central Jakarta.

All Biru handbags, with prices ranging from Rp 650,000 to Rp 1.2 million, are made using fine fabrics with elegant color combinations. The beads and embroidery are carefully added by hand.

Susan also incorporates a modern and festive twist that succeeds in reversing the long-held public assumption that beaded and embroidered handbags are things your grandmother carries.

One of the handbags in her collection is called Rosemary, which is her interpretation of a character of the same name from a classic novel. Then there is the Madame Buttercup, which portrays a woman picking buttercup flowers and gathering them into a bouquet, and Butterflies in Blue Lagoon, depicting a flowery lagoon with butterflies.

To ensure that her exclusive products stand out, Susan uses mostly imported fabrics and beads.

"I realized that I would need exclusive fabrics to make a difference. When I first started this business, the designs were simple and I experimented more with local fabrics, like satin and silk, as well as other materials," she said.

Her ability to create beautiful designs was already apparent when she was a teenager and words of support flowed in from her teachers at school and the late fashion designer Prajudi, encouraging her to become a designer.

"I have no background in fashion design and no experience in working with designers. But I always wanted to be a designer," said the 28-year-old.

Her desire to become a designer was dismissed by her parents, who wanted to see their daughter pursue a career in an "intellectual" field. After completing her studies in Boston, Massachusetts, in the United States, she worked with the Boston Consulting Group, simply to follow the wishes of her parents.

However, at the age of 25, Susan decided to use her talents and pursue her great love for fabrics and bag design. So she left Boston and came back to Indonesia, set to start her handbag venture in the midst of Indonesia's economic crisis.

"I realized that beaded handbags had been around a long time, but they had not been fully explored. Then we recruited some workers and taught them how to make the bags. Experience was not necessary as long as they wanted to learn," she recalled.

Susan currently employs about 100 workers at her workshop in Pondok Indah, South Jakarta. About 80 percent of her products are exported to the U.S., England, Singapore, Brunei and Australia.

As for the designs, she said she was inspired by daily events and her surroundings. "Every time I feel creative I create new designs. My bags are versatile."

Along with the fashionable designs, Susan makes sure her handbags are functional and well organized, elements that are often overlooked in many handbags.

"I only decorate the front of the bags with beads, otherwise they could get stuck when you wear a chiffon dress, for example. I also equip them with compartments for a cell phone and keys so people don't have a hard time finding those small items."

At her cozy boutique, Susan also elegantly displays her stylish stoles, available at Rp 1.9 million to Rp 2.4 million, some with themes that match the beaded handbags.

The boutique itself was specially designed to pamper clients in a warm and homey atmosphere.

"I want my clients to feel comfortable when choosing the bags. I thank them for using them. It's gives me personal satisfaction. Based on this feeling, the concept (of the boutique) was created to help bring my clients and me closer," the designer said.