Spicy fried rice from the Kebon Sirih sidewalk

Spicy fried rice from the Kebon Sirih sidewalk

JAKARTA (JP): Jakarta residents fond of a bowlful of fried
rice will no doubt be familiar with the nasi goreng kambing
(mutton fried rice) found at sidewalk eateries around the city.
One with a reputation built over 30 years of serving up what is
now considered by some the national dish, is located in Kebon
Sirih, in the capital's bustling center.

Nasi Goreng Kambing Kebon Sirih, Jl. Kebon Sirih, corner of
Jl. Kebon Sirih Barat I, Central Jakarta.

Open: 5 p.m. to 2 a.m.

What's it got: Nasi goreng kambing (mutton fried rice), as to
be expected from the name, but sop kambing (goat soup) and sate
kambing (goat satay) served with rice are also available. For
herbivores or those whose tastes do not run to goat meat, a
vegetarian fried rice is also available.

The beverage list is dominated by fruit juices -- melon,
avocado, soursop, tomato. There are no regular soft drinks but
tea and mineral water are on offer. And if you really need that
sugar hit, then soft drinks can be bought from a beverage vendor
near the warung.

Price Points: Nasi goreng kambing, Rp 8,000 per serving, sop
kambing, Rp 6,500, sate kambing, Rp 12,000, and white rice, Rp
1,500.

Looks: Well, it's not comfortable. The seating arrangement of
a long table and two long benches in the sidewalk stall is enough
for, at most, 10 visitors. And there is a gnawing smell of
rotting garbage from a garbage dump a few meters away.

Most diners come in private vehicles and eat the fried rice in
their cars (it also keeps them shielded from the street vendors
and singers).

Popular with...: Office workers from skyscrapers along Jl.
Thamrin and civil servants, including from nearby City Hall, and
residents of the Kebon Sirih area. One of the owner's relatives
said that Golkar Party chairman and speaker of the House of
Representatives Akbar Tandjung, economist Faisal Basri and too
many celebrities to name had dined at the warung.

Taste Factor: The different types of fried rice have almost
the same taste, with the intermingling flavors of sesame oil,
olive oil, chili, pepper, butter, fish ketchup, garlic and onion.
If you like the spicy taste of rendang, meat stewed in coconut
milk and spices from West Sumatra, then this will be to your
liking. Others who are used to their fried rice with a pinch of
chili, garlic and onion may find all the flavors too much of a
good thing.

While there are big chunks of meat, diners whose idea of a
hearty meal is a heaping portion of rice will be disappointed.

And if you are desiring a piping-hot plate of fried rice then
you probably have to go somewhere else. The rice here, prepared
in bulk to meet all the orders, will probably be cold when it
gets to you.

Minus Points: The waiters in their uniform of black T-shirts
cannot be called friendly, which may be because they are working
under pressure to serve so many customers at one time.

If you dislike people looking at you while you eat, then this
is not the place for you. There is no curtain on the front of the
stall, so you feel like you are in a gallery being observed by
passersby. Do not come without a car on a weekend night as
seating is difficult to get.

Verdict: The spicy fried rice was to the liking of our party
of three, but not everybody will be able to stomach the raw
experience of the smells and sights on this Jakarta street
corner. (Sri Ramadani)