Sun, 11 Jan 1998

Spectacular Green Canyon is new stop on tourist trail

Text and photos by Sri Lestari

CIAMIS, West Java (JP): Fancy a vacation that will help you briefly turn your back on the monetary crisis and also not leave your pockets empty?

As a trip abroad is out of the question for most of us due to the rampaging dollar, then why not explore one of the spectacular views that we have here, literally in our backyard?

The adventurous should pack their bags and head to the site called Green Canyon.

Located in Cijulang village, Ciamis regency, it is only half an hour's drive from the Pangandaran coast. A relatively new addition to the tourist trail, it is gaining in popularity as among the most distinctive and most visited tourist destinations in West Java.

The canyon, originally called Cukang Taneuh, is now almost universally known by its English name because of the green hue of the river water between the rocky canyon and the surroundings.

"The site was discovered by several tourists from the U.S, France and Switzerland in 1990," said villager Ahmad, who rents his boat to visitors. Since then, the cave, draped with stunning stalagmites and stalactites, has become the most popular tourist destination in the Ciamis area.

"During the Japanese occupation, it was used as a hiding place and a military defense station," Ahmad said. "Also, it was once utilized as a hiding place for guerrilla fighters during the war of independence."

The Green Canyon is located on the upper reaches of Citaal River. In the canyon itself is a huge cave covered with green moss over its walls. Upon entering the canyon, visitors will be amazed by the spectacular view of the dark green rocky cave. There is a cool and relaxing breeze, and water seeping through the walls fans out to form the exquisite sight of a curtain of rain.

Among the most exciting experiences, and a must for all visitors, is a dip in a natural pool. The sun's rays pierce through heavy plant covering to create a dim light.

"Once I had a Dutch customer who was recommended to come to this place by an acquaintance," Ahmad remembered. "He was so thrilled to see such a beautiful view like the Green Canyon that he tipped me Rp 150,000."

Chances are visitors will also bump into Agus, another local who often hang out in the canyon. He enjoys showing off his acrobatic skills by climbing to the highest rocks and diving into the water.

"He is definitely a great swimmer and knows the area quite well," commented a woman who hires out inner tubes.

Agus usually encourages visitors to join him. "Come on, let's jump. Trust me you won't regret it. It's fun!" he shouts. But most people are not brave enough, preferring to watch Agus do his routine.

To reach the canyon, travelers should rent a boat, with maximum capacity for five, for the fee of Rp 23,500. The ticket counter opens from 7:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., except Friday, when it opens from 1:30 p.m. to 5 p.m. The trip to the Green Canyon takes 15 minutes.

A point to remember is that boats sometimes get backed up during heavy visitor numbers on weekends and public holidays. An early morning trip is recommended for the crowd-shy.

Finding accommodation is usually not a problem. Most places are located along the beach in Pangandaran, and the range of prices depends on the season and amenities.

On weekdays, the price range for a double room with shared bathroom at smaller hotels is between Rp 15,000 and Rp 50,000; it can cost more than Rp 150,000 for a three-star hotel. The price can double during public holidays and weekends, when rooms are often fully booked. It is advisable to book in advance if a trip is planned for this time.

The Green Canyon is easily accessible by car. From Jakarta, the land journey takes 10 hours, and it is about two hours less from Yogyakarta. Those who prefer to use public transportation can get a bus from Jakarta to Banjar, and continue the journey by minibus to Cijulang.

Some buses have a direct route to Pangandaran, where minibuses are available to the Green Canyon, or motorcycles for rent cost only Rp 12,500 per day. Also, there are trains from Yogyakarta or Bandung which stop in Banjar. For the cash-happy left among us, there is even a flight from the West Java capital to Nusawiru Airport, only 10 km from Green Canyon.