Singkawang: Town of beaches and kilns

Singkawang: Town of beaches and kilns

Evi Mariani, The Jakarta Post, Singkawang, West Kalimantan

Singkawang, a small town three hours by car from Pontianak, is
known among certain crowds for its amoy -- a derogatory term for
teenaged female sex workers of Chinese descent.

Few people, though, are aware that the area also boasts
splendid white-sand beaches and kilns where Chinese-style
ceramics are fired, as over half of Singkawang's population is of
Chinese descent.

A dozen kilometers out of town is the most popular of the
beaches, Pasir Panjang.

There is not much in the way of public transportation in
Singkawang, but visitors can rent a car or hire a motorcycle taxi
to go to the beach.

Meanwhile, if departing from Pontianak, the kilns are located
about seven kilometers before the town.

There are a number of huge ovens there, which are used for
firing copies of ancient Chinese jars and other utility ware.

Walking around town is a pleasant way to fill in an hour --
though no longer, due to the town's small size -- and the
commercial heart of the town comprises Chinese-style shop-houses
with nice, clean sidewalks out front.

There is no supermarket, but there are blocks of shop-houses
selling clothes, books, cell phones, home appliances and food.

At night, when the small shops are closed, the owners of night
stalls set up plastic seats and tables for locals who want to
dine out, or sip a cup of hot coffee or tea.

"Restaurants mostly open from morning to afternoon here. At
night, it is our turn to provide meals and beverages," one of the
street vendors said.

The night stalls are concentrated around the biggest market in
Singkawang. Most stalls on Jl. Pasar Ikan are packed with
customers.

They sell thick pancakes filled with cheese, chocolate or
peanuts locally known as apam pinang. People living on Java call
the pancakes martabak.

Unfortunately, there are few dinner options for the hungry
tourist as the stalls mostly sell Padang food.

Chinese food, which is a specialty of Singkawang, can only be
found in restaurants that are closed at nights.

The night stalls and beverage carts close at around 10:00 p.m.

Every Cap Go Meh, the fifteenth day after the Chinese New
Year, a cultural show is held in Singkawang.

This year's Cap Go Meh should fall on Feb. 24, so mark your
calendar, open your guide book and reserve a hotel room now,
because that day is the busiest of the year in Singkawang.