Sun, 29 Feb 2004

Siladen island: A paradise within a tropical paradise

Fabio Scarpello, Contributor, Bunaken, Manado

As the two-engine boat pushes away from Siladen pier, a melancholic mood surges through the occupants. The boat's turtle- like pace seems designed to assist in the gradual transition from what has been an awe-inspiring stay and the memories that always follow.

Following Daniel's signs, the captain swerves unhurriedly. Daniel does not talk much; he is a shy stocky young man who, crouched at the front, works as the "eye" to guided the boat past surfacing corals. Soon the island contour starts fading, but the passengers' gaze remains stubbornly fixed, looking for that palm tree, that beach corner ...

After 30 minutes, the boat docks in Manado and the hustle and bustle of the city works as a wake-up call. Shoes -- forgotten throughout the stay in Siladen -- are again part of needed attire, and the worries, anxiety, projects and work appointments that were put on hold suddenly resurface.

It is then that one wonders: What if that was as good as it will ever get?

The idea of what an earthly Eden should be like differs from one person to the next, but close harmony with nature, beauty, tranquility and peacefulness are very likely to be on the list of most of us.

Siladen is a dot on the map of North Sulawesi, unknown to most people outside the divers' circuit. The grainy sand is neither white, nor yellow or red, but a mixture of the three with golden reflections. It is easy to spend hours sitting on Siladen's shore, with the feet flirtatiously stroked by the warm water, while the compliant sand molds around the lines of the trunks. Crabs jiggle around, eagles fly high, big iguanas play hide and seek, and in general, nature puts on a display of its lavish wealth.

On this tiny island, close contact with nature is complemented by the ultimate indulgence of five-star accommodation -- Siladen Resort and SPA -- that does not impose itself on the surroundings but blends with it.

It is a soothing experience to fall asleep in the outsize four poster bed, with a lullaby provided by the ocean that gently laps the shore five meters away, as it is gentle to wake up with the sunrays filtering through the cotton curtains.

The bungalows, with sea or garden views, offer a gentle ambience and are elegantly uncluttered. Every piece of furniture has been hand selected, and attention has obviously been paid to the details. Looking around, even items that would usually be easily overlooked, give a sensual pleasure. Hibiscuses are everywhere.

At times there is no need to get one's feet wet to see dolphins playing in the distance, and the baby sharks that during low tide swim to shore only to sprint away soon after. Strange to say, but here it seems as if the wildlife had been trained for guests' convenience.

This is, after all, part of the Bunaken Marine National Park, one of the best natural reserves in the world, renowned for the richness of its sea and the high level of its coral reefs' biodiversity. Siladen is the smallest of the five islands included in the park, which has a total surface area of 89,065 hectares (97 percent of which is sea). The other islands are Bunaken, Manado Tua, Mantehage and Nain.

Here, snorkeling and scuba diving take a new meaning and become surreal experiences that need to be sipped unhurriedly. Siladen resort's trained staff can help to discover a bizarrely fascinating world so rich in color, life and gravity-defying architecture that it is beyond most people's fantasy or their descriptive skills.

Hard, soft and whip corals, together with sponges, cover the surfaces' walls, and are the perfect environment for an uncountable number of fish in all shapes, sizes and forms. The array of earthly known tints are mortified by the unashamedly dazzling shades present underwater. Often one dive is enough to see moray eels staring angrily out from coral caves, turtles sculling the water placidly, as well as sharks hovering around or darting past in the middle of schools of pyramid butterfly fish, black trigger fish and clouds of anthias swarming around the reef edge.

On shore and still with gleeful eyes, the best way to reevaluate the experience is by sipping a drink in a comfortable deckchair, shaded by a parasol in a resort that oozes a contagious tranquility and serenity. Here, nothing is too much to ask but very little is asked as smiling, tiptoeing staff preemptively take care of any requests.

The sea of Siladen Island beckons. Siladen Resort responds: sea cruises, fishing trips, snorkeling or (fun, night, special) dives are organized and every individual request is considered. Then, at the end of the day, the multisensorial fulfillment may take the shape of a gentle massage, using aromatic essential oils, or a gourmet meal in what has been selected the best restaurant in North Sulawesi.

A double Jacuzzi outside each bungalow juxtaposes nature with luxurious relaxation and it is the permanent abode of hedonism and self-indulgence. The sensual, prickling bubbles tickle the body, and for the state-of-the-art extravagance, it is best enjoyed at sunset. At this time the sky plays with its colors displaying every shade between blue and red. Beyond the reef, the white-blue-turquoise waves roll all the way to the horizon and the sea glimmers with the reflection of the transmigrating sun.

Then one wonders again: What if that is as good as it will ever get?