Sebastian Gunawan: Making a grand impression

Muara Bagdja, Contributor, Jakarta

Sebastian Gunawan's annual show at the Hotel Mulia in Central Jakarta in August was outstanding for two reasons.

The presentation was extraordinary, with the plexiglass runway, bordered by two screens on each side, an ideal arrangement to show the 100 sparkling dresses before 1,500 guests, undoubtedly the most ever assembled for a fashion show in the capital.

Then there were the grand designs, from the ball gowns, his take on the elegant "New Look" style of the 1950s and dramatic wedding dresses.

His creations have inspired many designers, both the young and his seniors, to make their own bustiers and ball gowns adorned with sparkling accessories. With his wife, Cristina Panarese, as a trusted partner in his design team, he has successfully created his own genre in the country's fashion development.

This year's show, following on from his annual presentations from the mid-1990s on, strengthened his brand image and showed he is at the peak of his craft in creating elegant designs. Fittingly, he was 2001's "star".

Another trend in 2001 was designers looking for more variety than the standard hotel ballroom as the locations to hold their shows.

Oscar Lawalata, a young designer who has emerged as a media darling for his androgynous looks, took the plunge by holding his show at the Gelora Bung Karno swimming pool and turned it into a unique fashion extravaganza, with an attractive water-ballet and fireworks to close it.

It was a surprise for the spectators when the models appeared on the diving boards. Oscar's show, his first foray into what he defined as haute couture, could be appropriately called "The Show of the Year".

Amid boring rehashing of long gowns by some well-known designers, there was, thankfully, the emergence of new arrangement and use of traditional textiles.

Denny Wirawan meticulously transferred Timor woven motifs into modern and sophisticated designs. Dina Midiani came up with new inspiration by inserting lace on batik sarong.

Didi Budiardjo's textile creations were also one step ahead. Now instead of adorning his dresses with beads, he uses Swavorski crystals to create a new motif on batik and sarong with plaid patterns. He has applied this technique both for his own creations as well as the collection of the House of Prajudi.

The inspirational creations of these designers can be categorized as "The Textiles of the Year". Hopefully, we will see more of them in 2002.