Rob Kirwan's Journey: The Ups and Downs of an Australian Solo Rider in Indonesia

JAKARTA, KOMPAS.COM – Exploring Indonesia’s natural beauty on a motorcycle is a dream for many riders. But what is it like for a foreign national to undertake such an adventure solo, bringing their own bike from home? This is the story of Rob Kirwan, a solo rider from Broome, Western Australia.

Riding his beloved BMW F 800 GS, Kirwan has traversed thousands of kilometres of Indonesian roads, from East Timor and Kupang in Nusa Tenggara, Flores, Sulawesi, to now landing on Java. Speaking to Kompas.com, he shared the highs and lows, and the real challenges foreign motorcycle enthusiasts face when touring Indonesia.

For Kirwan, Indonesia offers an irresistible allure for road adventurers. One of the biggest positives is the combination of challenging routes and breathtaking natural scenery. “I’ve ridden some truly stunning roads. In Flores, the views are incredible. I even got close to Mount Lewotobi before it erupted,” Kirwan said.

Beyond the natural beauty, Kirwan greatly appreciates the local hospitality along his route. Whenever his bike faced technical issues, he was often aided by locals and homestay owners. “The people at homestays are incredibly friendly. When my bike broke down in Labuan Bajo, they treated me exceptionally well. These interactions with locals make the journey truly worthwhile,” he added.

However, behind the scenic beauty lies a significant challenge: maintaining a mid-to-large adventure bike like the BMW F 800 GS in remote parts of Indonesia, particularly regarding spare parts availability. Kirwan explained how he had to wait weeks for components such as the stator (spul), regulator, and clutch to be repaired. “It’s very difficult to get support from official service networks here; their assistance is minimal. Finding non-original spare parts is nearly impossible. For the first breakdown, I had to wait five weeks for parts to be shipped from Australia. On top of that, I had to pay double customs duties on the imported goods,” he complained.

To overcome this, Kirwan had to get creative, tapping into touring communities and tourist routes. “When I needed spare parts again in Bima and Bali, I posted on Facebook. Luckily, many Australian tourists were visiting Bali, so I arranged for a friend flying there to drop off the parts, which I then picked up directly. It was much cheaper and faster than using official cargo services,” said the former garden service entrepreneur.