Ratih dreams of world-class RI models

By I. Christianto

JAKARTA (JP): She is today married and pregnant but Ratih Sanggarwati, once feted as Indonesia's leading model, is still tied to the glamorous life of the catwalk.

After more than a decade of high fashion shoots and runway work, Ratih has taken on a behind-the-scenes role as part owner of the Expose modeling agency, which she founded with fellow top models Kintan Umari and Larasati in 1994.

"I don't have any desire to model anymore," Ratih, now in her fourth month of pregnancy, told The Jakarta Post during a break at the agency. She is married to businessman Budi S. Zen.

"I think I reached the peak of my modeling career. Now I hope to support the development of modeling in Indonesia through Expose."

In a profession with a notoriously short life span, Ratih proved among the most durable of her peers, retiring when she still commanded respect in the industry.

Ratih outlines that a model needs three to four years to work her way up to the top, and can only hope to remain in that position for roughly the same period of time.

She knew when her modeling days were numbered. "I got tired. As far as modeling was concerned, that was it for me."

The situation for models today is vastly better than in the past, Ratih says.

The fashion industry is booming in Indonesia and fashion shows, including those of international standard, are being held more regularly, she observes.

Modeling has also gained greater acceptance and respect in society, she adds. Parents, once fearful of the association of modeling with high-class prostitution, are now allowing their children to take modeling classes.

"I don't know about them," Ratih said of gossips that many models lead a double life. "But I have to admit that the modeling world is not unpolluted."

These negative stereotypes are what she hopes to eliminate through Expose. "From now on, I want to make people understand that modeling is also a profession."

In addition to handling 25 models, Expose also runs a three- month modeling course.

"I don't believe in the beginner, intermediate and advanced classes," Ratih says. "A model needs experience on the catwalk, not in a class."

Indonesia must prepare for the advent of a global modeling industry. "Like other fields, modeling is becoming a worldwide industry. Overseas agents will come to Indonesia and we have to prepare for this," she says.

Ratih is confident Indonesians can rank among the world's top models, especially since many fashion designers today favor oriental features for models in presenting their clothes.

Yet looks alone are not enough in the competitive and demanding modeling world, she cautions. "The most important thing is professionalism. I think there are many things we can do to improve professionalism in modeling."

A model must possess a positive attitude, motivation and a strong sense of cooperation, she believes, as "models have to work together with photographers, designers and the press."

They must also understand some basic English. "Imagine a model who cannot understand instructions from a photographer."

The demand for greater professionalism will also apply to local agents. Expose, she claims, will be at the forefront in establishing professional standards.

"I hope that in five to seven years, there will be a number of agencies which can handle local models in a professional manner."

'Drought'

Agencies should be able to provide assignments all the year round, even during the "drought" period in the year when bookings tail off.

The signs of a growing role for agencies are apparent, she says, citing the fact that more designers are turning to modeling agencies instead of the former practice of hiring models individually for shows.

"Imagine if a model hired individually suddenly develops a stomachache just before a show. Who is going to replace her at the last minute? An agent can quickly handle such a situation because of its substitute models."

Ratih took an unconventional route to her modeling career.

Born in the small East Java town of Ngawi, a small town in East Java, on Dec.8, 1962, she experienced her first serious brush with modeling at a national level in 1980 when she won the most photogenic award at a cover girl pageant held by the Gadis teenage magazine.

Her previous experience had been limited to local shows, such as an event held by the Muhammadiyah Orphanage at the Madiun Public Hall in East Java.

In 1983, she won the Abang dan None (Mr. and Miss) contest in Jakarta.

But Ratih did not embark on a full-fledged modeling career, heeding her mother's advice to get an education first. "I remember my mother telling me to finish school first and graduate from university," she says.

In 1981, she failed to gain admission to a state university, a rejection which she then viewed as the worst event in her life.

Looking back, she says it was a blessing in disguise. "At my father's suggestion, I enrolled at an economic school of University of Jayabaya and went on to graduate in 1987. Now I can run Expose because I have necessary academic background."

She made a full plunge into modeling after she graduated at the age of 24 years. "Some people said I was a bit too old. But this made me even more selective in choosing the shows I wanted to take part in."

Despite the naysayers, Ratih soon established herself as one of the country's most sought-after models.

She secured a one-year contract at a modeling agency in New York, and her face adorned various international magazines, including Women's Affairs and Vogue.

She also visited Milan and Morocco on photo shoots.

Ratih attributes her successful career to fate and good luck. "My skin is brown, but on some occasions I was selected to participate in big, international shows."

Ratih's advice for upcoming young models who want to reach the top is to keep jaded modeling insiders guessing.

"I caused some surprises, like when I signed up for an agency in Singapore," she recollects. "Many people were amazed that I made such a decision."

The bigger the surprise, the better, Ratih believes.

"Change the color of your hair dramatically, or even shave your head bald!" she says.