Ratih dreams of world-class RI models

Ratih dreams of world-class RI models

By I. Christianto

JAKARTA (JP): She is today married and pregnant but Ratih
Sanggarwati, once feted as Indonesia's leading model, is still
tied to the glamorous life of the catwalk.

After more than a decade of high fashion shoots and runway
work, Ratih has taken on a behind-the-scenes role as part owner
of the Expose modeling agency, which she founded with fellow top
models Kintan Umari and Larasati in 1994.

"I don't have any desire to model anymore," Ratih, now in her
fourth month of pregnancy, told The Jakarta Post during a break
at the agency. She is married to businessman Budi S. Zen.

"I think I reached the peak of my modeling career. Now I hope
to support the development of modeling in Indonesia through
Expose."

In a profession with a notoriously short life span, Ratih
proved among the most durable of her peers, retiring when she
still commanded respect in the industry.

Ratih outlines that a model needs three to four years to work
her way up to the top, and can only hope to remain in that
position for roughly the same period of time.

She knew when her modeling days were numbered. "I got tired.
As far as modeling was concerned, that was it for me."

The situation for models today is vastly better than in the
past, Ratih says.

The fashion industry is booming in Indonesia and fashion
shows, including those of international standard, are being held
more regularly, she observes.

Modeling has also gained greater acceptance and respect in
society, she adds. Parents, once fearful of the association of
modeling with high-class prostitution, are now allowing their
children to take modeling classes.

"I don't know about them," Ratih said of gossips that many
models lead a double life. "But I have to admit that the modeling
world is not unpolluted."

These negative stereotypes are what she hopes to eliminate
through Expose. "From now on, I want to make people understand
that modeling is also a profession."

In addition to handling 25 models, Expose also runs a three-
month modeling course.

"I don't believe in the beginner, intermediate and advanced
classes," Ratih says. "A model needs experience on the catwalk,
not in a class."

Indonesia must prepare for the advent of a global modeling
industry. "Like other fields, modeling is becoming a worldwide
industry. Overseas agents will come to Indonesia and we have to
prepare for this," she says.

Ratih is confident Indonesians can rank among the world's top
models, especially since many fashion designers today favor
oriental features for models in presenting their clothes.

Yet looks alone are not enough in the competitive and
demanding modeling world, she cautions. "The most important thing
is professionalism. I think there are many things we can do to
improve professionalism in modeling."

A model must possess a positive attitude, motivation and a
strong sense of cooperation, she believes, as "models have to
work together with photographers, designers and the press."

They must also understand some basic English. "Imagine a model
who cannot understand instructions from a photographer."

The demand for greater professionalism will also apply to
local agents. Expose, she claims, will be at the forefront in
establishing professional standards.

"I hope that in five to seven years, there will be a number of
agencies which can handle local models in a professional manner."

'Drought'

Agencies should be able to provide assignments all the year
round, even during the "drought" period in the year when bookings
tail off.

The signs of a growing role for agencies are apparent, she
says, citing the fact that more designers are turning to modeling
agencies instead of the former practice of hiring models
individually for shows.

"Imagine if a model hired individually suddenly develops a
stomachache just before a show. Who is going to replace her at
the last minute? An agent can quickly handle such a situation
because of its substitute models."

Ratih took an unconventional route to her modeling career.

Born in the small East Java town of Ngawi, a small town in
East Java, on Dec.8, 1962, she experienced her first serious
brush with modeling at a national level in 1980 when she won the
most photogenic award at a cover girl pageant held by the Gadis
teenage magazine.

Her previous experience had been limited to local shows, such
as an event held by the Muhammadiyah Orphanage at the Madiun
Public Hall in East Java.

In 1983, she won the Abang dan None (Mr. and Miss) contest in
Jakarta.

But Ratih did not embark on a full-fledged modeling career,
heeding her mother's advice to get an education first. "I
remember my mother telling me to finish school first and graduate
from university," she says.

In 1981, she failed to gain admission to a state university, a
rejection which she then viewed as the worst event in her life.

Looking back, she says it was a blessing in disguise. "At my
father's suggestion, I enrolled at an economic school of
University of Jayabaya and went on to graduate in 1987. Now I can
run Expose because I have necessary academic background."

She made a full plunge into modeling after she graduated at
the age of 24 years. "Some people said I was a bit too old. But
this made me even more selective in choosing the shows I wanted
to take part in."

Despite the naysayers, Ratih soon established herself as one
of the country's most sought-after models.

She secured a one-year contract at a modeling agency in New
York, and her face adorned various international magazines,
including Women's Affairs and Vogue.

She also visited Milan and Morocco on photo shoots.

Ratih attributes her successful career to fate and good luck.
"My skin is brown, but on some occasions I was selected to
participate in big, international shows."

Ratih's advice for upcoming young models who want to reach the
top is to keep jaded modeling insiders guessing.

"I caused some surprises, like when I signed up for an agency
in Singapore," she recollects. "Many people were amazed that I
made such a decision."

The bigger the surprise, the better, Ratih believes.

"Change the color of your hair dramatically, or even shave
your head bald!" she says.