Popular with Shamans, This Indonesian Plant Turns Out to Be a Beauty Serum Ingredient
A plant long synonymous with traditional rituals and shamanic practices is now gaining attention as a raw material for the modern beauty industry. The National Research and Innovation Agency (BRIN) has revealed that frankincense is being developed into an active ingredient for serums and natural essential oil-based sunscreens.
The research was showcased at the Indonesia Cosmetic Ingredients (ICI) 2026 event held at JIExpo Kemayoran, Jakarta, from 6-8 May 2026. Amid the dominance of imported raw materials in the national cosmetics industry, BRIN is promoting the use of local biodiversity as an alternative for active beauty product ingredients.
A researcher from BRIN’s Centre for Applied Botany Research, Cut Rizlani Kholibrina, stated that her team has developed serums and sunscreens using essential oils from several native Indonesian plants. The technology has reached Technology Readiness Level (TRL) 7, the stage towards commercialisation.
In the developed formulation, frankincense serves as one of the main ingredients due to its benefits for skin health. In addition to frankincense, BRIN also uses tuberose, champaca, and sandalwood as natural active ingredient mixtures.
“Frankincense is utilised for skin regeneration, anti-ageing, as well as stronger antioxidants and anti-inflammatories than chemical ingredients,” said Cut in her statement quoted on Thursday (14/5/2026).
Tuberose has anti-inflammatory effects while also aiding body relaxation to support sleep quality. Meanwhile, champaca is said to contain high antioxidants that help with skin cell regeneration, while sandalwood is used as a source of natural antioxidants.
BRIN claims that the use of natural ingredients is considered more readily accepted by the body and has the potential to minimise long-term chemical residues. However, the use of essential oils is still limited to ensure safety for the skin.
“To guarantee consumer safety, BRIN sets a standard formulation for essential oils below 2% to avoid the risk of skin irritation,” explained Cut.
Not only in skincare, BRIN also showcased innovations in perfumes and reed diffusers based on distinctive Nusantara aromas. A researcher from BRIN’s Centre for Applied Botany Research, Aswandi, said the product development is driven by the high import of perfume raw materials in Indonesia.
The national perfume market reaches Rp9 trillion per year. However, around 63% of perfume products are still imported, while the local industry also relies on foreign raw materials.
“We create formulations that reflect the distinctive aromas of Nusantara, such as frankincense and camphor. These products are not just fragrances but have aromatherapy benefits that can make users more relaxed, focused, and happy,” revealed Aswandi.
In addition to the beauty sector, BRIN introduced toothpaste and mouthwash products based on laccase enzymes from Indonesian biodiversity. These products were developed as natural antibacterials and teeth whiteners to reduce dependence on imported raw materials.
A researcher from BRIN’s Centre for Applied Microbiology Research, Dede Heri Yuli Yanto, said that raw materials for enzymes in oral care products have so far been largely imported from abroad.
“So far, our enzyme raw materials are still imported, even though we have vast biodiversity wealth. We isolate this laccase enzyme from native Indonesian biodiversity for use as a natural antibacterial and teeth whitener that is safer and much more affordable than imported products,” said Dede.