Orlane, for a wedding no one will forget
Orlane, for a wedding no one will forget
By Dini S. Djalal
JAKARTA (JP): Glitz and glamour, pomp and circumstance: that's what weddings should be all about, according to bridal salons. People also often add that one's wedding should be "something you will always remember."
At the Orlane Bridal Salon show "Timeless Romance 1995", held on March 15 at Grand Hyatt Jakarta, there were plenty of gowns fit for a queen.
"The 'back to nature' trend has made brides look as boring as their guests. Orlane wants to offer a more dramatic look," said Lanny Setiawan, Orlane's make-up and hairdressing artist. Lanny's mother, Siena, designs the gowns. It was also Siena who, in 1958, set up this Parisian franchise. She sold the products door-to- door, persevering until she opened West Jakarta's Orlane Beauty Salon in 1970.
Yet after 25 profitable years in business, "Timeless Romance 1995" is Orlane's first big show in Jakarta. Previously, they had built up their reputation almost solely by word of mouth. Greater competition from other bridal salons, as well as a booming business in bridal services, has pushed Orlane to more aggressive marketing. "Timeless Romance 1995" offers a one-stop service, where you can buy your wedding cake and plan your honeymoon all at once.
In addition to the 25 bridal gowns, 10 evening dresses were displayed at the show. Many of the party frocks were floor- sweeping crinolined pradas with plunging cleavages. A bustierre gown of gold lace flowers, worn with a crown of gold flowers, was quite a spectacle. Slinky black beaded shifts were also presented, providing a saucy contrast to the demure white bridal gowns that followed.
Then again, some of the wedding dresses were not so demure. A tower of second-skin white satin worn with a veil of feathers, or an off-the-shoulder skintight brocaded tube dress, are not for Miss Jane Conservative. Neither is the all-gold bridal gown (surely a gamble) or the gown with massive appliqued wings on the bodice (so the bride can flee the groom). Miss Jane Conservative certainly would not have even looked at the see-through bodice worn with lace leggings underneath a robe/make-shift skirt of pouffed taffeta and feathers.
Would you wear any of these outfits? I asked Emma and Tina, two young women shopping for wedding dresses.
"Well, they're very pretty, but ... no," they answered.
Miss Jane Conservative would probably feel more comfortable in the Victorian lace ensemble, complete with Eliza-Doolittle bonnet and a neckline higher than the Eiffel Tower. Thankfully, Orlane also offered gowns for those with stylish but not outlandish taste. These were typical flashy wedding gowns: off-shoulder or short-sleeved, in satin, showered with lace and brocade. All that beadwork still seems to flashy for me, but it pleased the Indonesian audience.
What was lacking, however, was an Eastern flavor. Most weddings in Indonesia, regardless of the religion of the families, tend to choose tradition over fashion. Batik kebaya and fancy baju kurung are the norm, so why was there hardly a stretch of ethnic motifs?
Surprisingly, Siena Setiawan remarked that her inspiration was the theme of "East meets West". She has observed that European and American gowns are often too bland, while Asian designs can be too ostentatious. Setiawan tried to offer a collection that would bridge the two cultures, but her ideals did not manifest in the designs. These ensembles were no more particularly Indonesian than the fabrics used for the gowns. From Thai silk to Austrian beads, Orlane proudly announced that 100 percent of the materials used for the collection were imported. Orlane's representatives complained that too many Indonesians fly overseas to buy wedding dresses, "when there are nice designs produced here." Designed by native hands, perhaps, but not with local materials.