Orlane, for a wedding no one will forget

Orlane, for a wedding no one will forget

By Dini S. Djalal

JAKARTA (JP): Glitz and glamour, pomp and circumstance: that's
what weddings should be all about, according to bridal salons.
People also often add that one's wedding should be "something you
will always remember."

At the Orlane Bridal Salon show "Timeless Romance 1995", held
on March 15 at Grand Hyatt Jakarta, there were plenty of gowns
fit for a queen.

"The 'back to nature' trend has made brides look as boring as
their guests. Orlane wants to offer a more dramatic look," said
Lanny Setiawan, Orlane's make-up and hairdressing artist. Lanny's
mother, Siena, designs the gowns. It was also Siena who, in 1958,
set up this Parisian franchise. She sold the products door-to-
door, persevering until she opened West Jakarta's Orlane Beauty
Salon in 1970.

Yet after 25 profitable years in business, "Timeless Romance
1995" is Orlane's first big show in Jakarta. Previously, they had
built up their reputation almost solely by word of mouth. Greater
competition from other bridal salons, as well as a booming
business in bridal services, has pushed Orlane to more aggressive
marketing. "Timeless Romance 1995" offers a one-stop service,
where you can buy your wedding cake and plan your honeymoon all
at once.

In addition to the 25 bridal gowns, 10 evening dresses were
displayed at the show. Many of the party frocks were floor-
sweeping crinolined pradas with plunging cleavages. A bustierre
gown of gold lace flowers, worn with a crown of gold flowers, was
quite a spectacle. Slinky black beaded shifts were also
presented, providing a saucy contrast to the demure white bridal
gowns that followed.

Then again, some of the wedding dresses were not so demure. A
tower of second-skin white satin worn with a veil of feathers, or
an off-the-shoulder skintight brocaded tube dress, are not for
Miss Jane Conservative. Neither is the all-gold bridal gown
(surely a gamble) or the gown with massive appliqued wings on the
bodice (so the bride can flee the groom). Miss Jane Conservative
certainly would not have even looked at the see-through bodice
worn with lace leggings underneath a robe/make-shift skirt of
pouffed taffeta and feathers.

Would you wear any of these outfits? I asked Emma and Tina,
two young women shopping for wedding dresses.

"Well, they're very pretty, but ... no," they answered.

Miss Jane Conservative would probably feel more comfortable in
the Victorian lace ensemble, complete with Eliza-Doolittle bonnet
and a neckline higher than the Eiffel Tower. Thankfully, Orlane
also offered gowns for those with stylish but not outlandish
taste. These were typical flashy wedding gowns: off-shoulder or
short-sleeved, in satin, showered with lace and brocade. All that
beadwork still seems to flashy for me, but it pleased the
Indonesian audience.

What was lacking, however, was an Eastern flavor. Most
weddings in Indonesia, regardless of the religion of the
families, tend to choose tradition over fashion. Batik kebaya and
fancy baju kurung are the norm, so why was there hardly a stretch
of ethnic motifs?

Surprisingly, Siena Setiawan remarked that her inspiration was
the theme of "East meets West". She has observed that European
and American gowns are often too bland, while Asian designs can
be too ostentatious. Setiawan tried to offer a collection that
would bridge the two cultures, but her ideals did not manifest in
the designs. These ensembles were no more particularly Indonesian
than the fabrics used for the gowns. From Thai silk to Austrian
beads, Orlane proudly announced that 100 percent of the materials
used for the collection were imported. Orlane's representatives
complained that too many Indonesians fly overseas to buy wedding
dresses, "when there are nice designs produced here." Designed by
native hands, perhaps, but not with local materials.