On the trail of the elusive Javan rhinoceros

On the trail of the elusive Javan rhinoceros

Every visitor to Ujung Kulon National Park wants to spot the famed but seldom seen Javan rhinoceros. Many avid visitors stay for days in the reserve, even sleeping in trees, in their attempt to secure an up-close look at the one-horned animal.

With a population hovering at 50 animals, seeing a Javan rhinoceros is no easy proposition. It is made more difficult because the animal's sense of smell extends to one kilometer, and it will immediately flee if it detects humans.

Many people, frustrated in their attempts to see the rhino, do not believe they survive. Foreign tourists are particularly disappointed because nearly every promotional brochure for the park features a photograph of the sought-after rhinoceros. Evidence of the survival of the rhinoceros is there, however, by hoofprints and droppings. With the World Wide Fund for Nature's assistance, cameras have been installed in the park to record the movements of the elusive animals.

Although we only sighted some hoofprints during our visit to Ujung Kulon in mid-July, our group in the Environmental Activists and Social Familiarization felt fortunate. As the saying goes, if there are no roots, make the best of the rattan; if one does not see a rhinoceros, then the hoofprints will do. The hoofprints were spotted during a journey from Ciramea on the south coast heading to Cibom in the north.

The hoofprints showed a pattern of three indentations -- on the left, right and front -- which conforms to the number of its nails, measuring 21 cm in diameter.

Game warden Entus Sutisna, who accompanied our group, said, "This rhino was foraging, which is shown by the disordered pattern of the print."

We estimated the hoofprints were made between three to four days before by an animal about 20 years old weighing roughly one metric ton. We were the first party to find the hoofprints.

We also found a hoofprint about 500 meters from Cibom. However, it was difficult to measure because it was made on soft ground and was already quite old.

During his 12 years as a warden, Entus has sighted the rhinoceros four times, and all of them were by coincidence. In the last sighting in 1997, he came across two animals about 15 meters away. After the brief glimpse, the animals fled.

"The rhinoceros is a shy animal. They will run away if they meet someone," Entus said.

The one-horned or Javan rhinoceros was first described at the beginning of the 7th century; when the animal was abundant in Java and populations were found throughout Southeast Asia. Their prevalence in Java in the 1700s led them to being considered pests for farming and plantations. By this century, hunting and loss of habitat had pushed the rhinoceros, the world's rarest large mammal, to its final refuge in Ujung Kulon (a small population of about 12 to 15 rhinos survives in Vietnam).

Entus was hesitant in stating a definitive way to find the rhinos. However, he provided advice on increasing the chance of meeting the park's mascot.

First, pay attention to wind direction. A rhinoceros can only be approached from the opposite direction of the wind. Because of its sharp sense of smell, it will flee if it smells humans, but a person not approaching from downwind is likely to go undetected.

Second, monitor their trails. An adult animal can cover up to 20 kilometers a day, and it has a tendency to cover the same range. Rhinoceroses also enjoy wallowing in mud. With these habits considered, the likelihood of finding rhinoceroses near their established trails or watering holes is relatively high.

Third, note the concentration of food sources. They consume plant shoots and twigs. Rhinoceroses are more likely to be found where there is a high concentration of their food sources.

Fourth, check the range of the rhinoceroses' movements. Their main zone is known to cover Cikeusik, Cibandawoh, Citadahan and Cibunar, all of which are in the central area of Ujung Kulon.

Fifth, fate or luck. Experience shows this is the most dominant factor in whether people spot the animal. Entus Sutisna said there were people who waited in vain for weeks for a sighting, but others caught a glimpse of the rhinoceroses on their first day in the jungle.

The above tips may help you during a trip to Ujung Kulon. But do not be disappointed if you never see the rare animal. Luck, after all, may not be on your side. (Ali Nurdin)