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On the trail of the elusive Javan rhinoceros

On the trail of the elusive Javan rhinoceros

Every visitor to Ujung Kulon National Park wants to spot the
famed but seldom seen Javan rhinoceros. Many avid visitors stay
for days in the reserve, even sleeping in trees, in their attempt
to secure an up-close look at the one-horned animal.

With a population hovering at 50 animals, seeing a Javan
rhinoceros is no easy proposition. It is made more difficult
because the animal's sense of smell extends to one kilometer, and
it will immediately flee if it detects humans.

Many people, frustrated in their attempts to see the rhino, do
not believe they survive. Foreign tourists are particularly
disappointed because nearly every promotional brochure for the
park features a photograph of the sought-after rhinoceros.
Evidence of the survival of the rhinoceros is there, however, by
hoofprints and droppings. With the World Wide Fund for Nature's
assistance, cameras have been installed in the park to record the
movements of the elusive animals.

Although we only sighted some hoofprints during our visit to
Ujung Kulon in mid-July, our group in the Environmental Activists
and Social Familiarization felt fortunate. As the saying goes, if
there are no roots, make the best of the rattan; if one does not
see a rhinoceros, then the hoofprints will do. The hoofprints
were spotted during a journey from Ciramea on the south coast
heading to Cibom in the north.

The hoofprints showed a pattern of three indentations -- on
the left, right and front -- which conforms to the number of its
nails, measuring 21 cm in diameter.

Game warden Entus Sutisna, who accompanied our group, said,
"This rhino was foraging, which is shown by the disordered
pattern of the print."

We estimated the hoofprints were made between three to four
days before by an animal about 20 years old weighing roughly one
metric ton. We were the first party to find the hoofprints.

We also found a hoofprint about 500 meters from Cibom.
However, it was difficult to measure because it was made on soft
ground and was already quite old.

During his 12 years as a warden, Entus has sighted the
rhinoceros four times, and all of them were by coincidence. In
the last sighting in 1997, he came across two animals about 15
meters away. After the brief glimpse, the animals fled.

"The rhinoceros is a shy animal. They will run away if they
meet someone," Entus said.

The one-horned or Javan rhinoceros was first described at the
beginning of the 7th century; when the animal was abundant in
Java and populations were found throughout Southeast Asia. Their
prevalence in Java in the 1700s led them to being considered
pests for farming and plantations. By this century, hunting and
loss of habitat had pushed the rhinoceros, the world's rarest
large mammal, to its final refuge in Ujung Kulon (a small
population of about 12 to 15 rhinos survives in Vietnam).

Entus was hesitant in stating a definitive way to find the
rhinos. However, he provided advice on increasing the chance of
meeting the park's mascot.

First, pay attention to wind direction. A rhinoceros can only
be approached from the opposite direction of the wind. Because of
its sharp sense of smell, it will flee if it smells humans, but a
person not approaching from downwind is likely to go undetected.

Second, monitor their trails. An adult animal can cover up to
20 kilometers a day, and it has a tendency to cover the same
range. Rhinoceroses also enjoy wallowing in mud. With these
habits considered, the likelihood of finding rhinoceroses near
their established trails or watering holes is relatively high.

Third, note the concentration of food sources. They consume
plant shoots and twigs. Rhinoceroses are more likely to be found
where there is a high concentration of their food sources.

Fourth, check the range of the rhinoceroses' movements. Their
main zone is known to cover Cikeusik, Cibandawoh, Citadahan and
Cibunar, all of which are in the central area of Ujung Kulon.

Fifth, fate or luck. Experience shows this is the most
dominant factor in whether people spot the animal. Entus Sutisna
said there were people who waited in vain for weeks for a
sighting, but others caught a glimpse of the rhinoceroses on
their first day in the jungle.

The above tips may help you during a trip to Ujung Kulon. But
do not be disappointed if you never see the rare animal. Luck,
after all, may not be on your side. (Ali Nurdin)

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