No sparks fly at Arantxa Adi's 'affair'

No sparks fly at Arantxa Adi's 'affair'

Sherry Samtani, Contributor/Jakarta

Hotel Mulia Senayan, Sept. 10: Just a day after the tragic
bombing that rocked the city, the unfurling of Arantxa Adi's
latest collection seemed to be a different world altogether.

Although there were a few prayers dished out at the pre-show
press conference, Jakarta's socialites were all dolled up in
anticipation of a night that promised glitz and glamour.

But did it deliver?

Adi, 26, showed his first independent collection only last
year. Themed "X Dimension", it received mixed reviews, mostly
saying that there was an unfinished look to its designs but it
showed promise, a promise supposedly being fulfilled with "The
Affair."

Comprising a hundred designs meant to depict the sensuality
and passion of a clandestine liaison, Adi declares his attire to
be "neat, soft, exquisite and elegant", outfits meant to magnify
the lavishness felt by a woman in love.

The ambience of the event was in tune with the theme. Dim
lights, dark cloth draping the walls, a triangular runway: a
simple yet charming setting. Marcell's soulful voice began the
show with the ballroom resonating with lyrics of a love foregone,
followed by the recitation of a poem written by Djenar Maesa Ayu.

Then a short feature film titled The Affair, as recreated by
Adi, lit up the screens. With Craig Armstrong's This Love echoing
in the background, the film starred Izabel Yahya, sporting Adi's
designs, and Tony Cheung as they indulged in illicit amour on the
outskirts of Jakarta. The crowd was clearly excited to witness
what followed.

A point to be noted is that a build-up that is this artistic
and extravagant should, of course, be followed by a show that is
excessively spectacular. Unfortunately, it was not the case.

A modification of this season's ever popular deb, slip and
baby doll dresses filled the runway. They are designs that are
easy on the eye but not much to brand Adi with a unique flair.

A dark green deb dress with a diamante brooch was the first
outfit to be sashayed down the runway, hinting at the majority of
full-skirted dresses the night had in store. Green seemed to be
the chosen color along with flesh tones, bright blues, lilacs and
whites.

The basic hemline was asymmetrical, created by layered
chiffon, taffeta, as well as bits of tulle and silk. Although the
outfits were evening wear, the usually ever-present sequins of
Indonesian fashion took a back seat, with details created by
ruffles, pleats and lots of ribbon.

Two-tone pieces also made appearances, particularly with a
gray-cream halter dress, as the coloring contrasted the brights
and whites. Waists were mostly cinched with ribbon, adding to the
"vintage" effect of the whole collection.

Personal favorites included a knee-length, one shoulder dress
that appeared to be a two piece. In blocks of black, cream and
pale pink, the top was in black chiffon, corseted by cream satin
that maximized curves and a full skirt in a shiny, pale pink
satin. Sexy yet elegant, this was the type of freshness the
collection needed more of.

The outfits were indeed beautiful and sensual, for the colors,
cutting and fitting were excellent but in a conventional manner.
In fact, many of the designer-clad women in the audience seemed
to be wearing similar styles. The makeup and accessories, too,
conformed to what's "in" today: chandelier earrings, curly hair
and bronze makeup.

Adi did mention that he desired a collection that was
extremely wearable, and perhaps his commercialized approach was
in response to that. But a theme line such as "The Affair" would
in fact permit him to experiment with controversial and bold
designs.

However, for someone so young and new, Arantxa Adi has shown
tremendous potential. There is always the next collection to
create a real affair to remember.