No sparks fly at Arantxa Adi's 'affair'

Sherry Samtani, Contributor/Jakarta

Hotel Mulia Senayan, Sept. 10: Just a day after the tragic bombing that rocked the city, the unfurling of Arantxa Adi's latest collection seemed to be a different world altogether.

Although there were a few prayers dished out at the pre-show press conference, Jakarta's socialites were all dolled up in anticipation of a night that promised glitz and glamour.

But did it deliver?

Adi, 26, showed his first independent collection only last year. Themed "X Dimension", it received mixed reviews, mostly saying that there was an unfinished look to its designs but it showed promise, a promise supposedly being fulfilled with "The Affair."

Comprising a hundred designs meant to depict the sensuality and passion of a clandestine liaison, Adi declares his attire to be "neat, soft, exquisite and elegant", outfits meant to magnify the lavishness felt by a woman in love.

The ambience of the event was in tune with the theme. Dim lights, dark cloth draping the walls, a triangular runway: a simple yet charming setting. Marcell's soulful voice began the show with the ballroom resonating with lyrics of a love foregone, followed by the recitation of a poem written by Djenar Maesa Ayu.

Then a short feature film titled The Affair, as recreated by Adi, lit up the screens. With Craig Armstrong's This Love echoing in the background, the film starred Izabel Yahya, sporting Adi's designs, and Tony Cheung as they indulged in illicit amour on the outskirts of Jakarta. The crowd was clearly excited to witness what followed.

A point to be noted is that a build-up that is this artistic and extravagant should, of course, be followed by a show that is excessively spectacular. Unfortunately, it was not the case.

A modification of this season's ever popular deb, slip and baby doll dresses filled the runway. They are designs that are easy on the eye but not much to brand Adi with a unique flair.

A dark green deb dress with a diamante brooch was the first outfit to be sashayed down the runway, hinting at the majority of full-skirted dresses the night had in store. Green seemed to be the chosen color along with flesh tones, bright blues, lilacs and whites.

The basic hemline was asymmetrical, created by layered chiffon, taffeta, as well as bits of tulle and silk. Although the outfits were evening wear, the usually ever-present sequins of Indonesian fashion took a back seat, with details created by ruffles, pleats and lots of ribbon.

Two-tone pieces also made appearances, particularly with a gray-cream halter dress, as the coloring contrasted the brights and whites. Waists were mostly cinched with ribbon, adding to the "vintage" effect of the whole collection.

Personal favorites included a knee-length, one shoulder dress that appeared to be a two piece. In blocks of black, cream and pale pink, the top was in black chiffon, corseted by cream satin that maximized curves and a full skirt in a shiny, pale pink satin. Sexy yet elegant, this was the type of freshness the collection needed more of.

The outfits were indeed beautiful and sensual, for the colors, cutting and fitting were excellent but in a conventional manner. In fact, many of the designer-clad women in the audience seemed to be wearing similar styles. The makeup and accessories, too, conformed to what's "in" today: chandelier earrings, curly hair and bronze makeup.

Adi did mention that he desired a collection that was extremely wearable, and perhaps his commercialized approach was in response to that. But a theme line such as "The Affair" would in fact permit him to experiment with controversial and bold designs.

However, for someone so young and new, Arantxa Adi has shown tremendous potential. There is always the next collection to create a real affair to remember.