Newcomer designer Populo offers elegant simplicity

Newcomer designer Populo offers elegant simplicity

By Dini S. Djalal

JAKARTA (JP): As fashion shows go, this was different. The man strolled out in a white T-shirt and white cotton trousers, dark sunglasses masking a famous face. But the glaring spotlights and the cheering audience lining the runway gave the game away: pop singer Harvey Malaiholo was modeling the latest collection of Indonesia-based design house Populo.

He wasn't the only non-professional model in the show. In order to cut costs and remain true to its motto of "personal style", Populo hired "real people" to model in their fashion show. Poolside at the Hilton Executive Club on April 21, an assortment of Jakarta's young (and not-so-young) professionals, both Indonesian and expatriates, hammed it up for the cameras. Lawyer Yanti Abdurrachman noted it was all in good fun.

"It was really hectic backstage, because we're not professional models," she said, "but we had a really good time."

The 1990s is the age of "personal style." From Calvin Klein boutiques to multi-story GAP emporiums, fashion's biggest commodity are the endless variations of "basics": those T-shirts and jeans that everyone can't seem to get enough of.

Populo, established in March 1994 by German-born Indonesian Joseph Lim, may be seen as Indonesia's first foray into the multi-million-dollar "basics" industry.

Lim and his partner, Bambang Prihantoro, popularly known as Ba'i, describe Populo's style as "simple, luxurious, and timeless." With a price range between Rp 400,000 and Rp 600,000 for men's shirts to Rp 2 million for ladies' evening wear, one should underline the word "luxurious".

The price shouldn't detract from the beauty of these exceptionally exquisite clothes. From the subtle coquettishness of a shrunken T-shirt dress to the self-assured sensuality of a silver sheath, Populo's offerings are quietly provocative. Anyone seeking to boost the glamour quotient in their lives should get on Populo's mailing list.

Simplicity

The show itself was enough to entice prospective customers. Slow bass grooves and a cool breeze simmered through the swaying palm trees and a captive audience. Outdoor shows should definitely be held more often in our tropical town.

When the models appeared down the runway for the men's ready- to-wear collection, initially nothing revolutionary seemed afoot. Linen shirts and trousers in various shades of brown and beige, and the occasional pinstriped waistcoat were sported by grinning barefoot boys. The jackets were expertly molded in unconstructed fashion, with rounded shoulders softly falling to generously-cut sleeves. All were single-breasted and modeled in light airy fabrics.

Sunglasses seemed to be the main accessory for the show, either to evoke a bad attitude or a self-conscious sense of je ne sais quoi. It often works well teamed with a casual suit and carefree manner. Other times the look was a reminder of teenage boys discovering the 3 "S"s on a Kontiki or Eurail summer holiday. A slight pale man glided slowly and serenely in a handsome checked blazer and black wool crepe trousers -- he had to be English.

Whereas the men posed macho-like in Mediterranean earth tones, the women strictly wore white. White shifts in a plethora of shapes and fabrics were worn with a confident tan and bright red lips. White-on-white and minimal accessories were also the theme of cotton shirts and trousers. Simplicity redefined. Some pairings came in very light lime-green cottons and linens. Knitwear was suggestively sheer. A Sophia-Loren look-alike wore only a matching strapless bra underneath her slinky netting, eliciting gasps and a few catcalls.

The evening collection pushed the electric charge to a higher level. Men wore shiny black shirts or black suits over shirt collars wider than the Continental divide. All that was missing were snakeskin loafers, a straw fedora and a chunky cigar to complete the camp Cuban look. Surprisingly, these ensembles worked, if only because the 1970s are still in revival.

Ladies evening wear went beyond all expectations. Designed by German Torsten Sannwald, everything came in black with texture being the only contrast. A babydoll-dress with layers of stiff crushed taffeta as an apron seemed light years away from the long and lean shift of black satin. But that is the gift of Populo.

Every dress had a different character, and cut simply in deceptively clever patterns. The only departures from the black- on-black combination were the use of silver bodysuits with black trousers.

Manufacturing

This is only Populo's second collection, a surprising detail considering the cohesiveness of his vision. Ba'i explains that this is what differentiates Populo from other Indonesian designers.

"A collection has to have a full range, taking note of common style and color. I don't feel that the other designers manage this," said Ba'i.

Differences between Populo and other Indonesian designers do not stop there. Populo's men's pants and suits are sub-contracted out to Germany while everything else is manufactured in Italy.

"The fabrics are very difficult to handle and the models are difficult to copy," said Joseph Lim. "We did a study for two years on whether we should manufacture in Indonesia, and in the end we decided that manufacturing quality here is not yet good enough for luxury goods standards," Lim said.

Lim and Ba'i both agree that Populo caters to only a small segment of the Indonesian market.

"There are lots of rich people in Jakarta," explained Ba'i, "but people who buy our clothes also have character, not only money." Lim also contends that European manufacturing gives confidence to their customers.

"Indonesians like to spend money, but only if the quality is very high," said Lim. Ba'i adds that "Indonesians will not part with their money for something made in Indonesia."

Not surprisingly, Populo's aspirations lie overseas.

"It's not so important for us to grow in Indonesia, but to expand in other parts of Asia. Because competition and costs in Europe are very high, our future is in Asia," Lim explained.

Currently selling from their showroom in Pancoran, South Jakarta, Populo's line will be available in May at Blok M's Seibu Dept. store. In addition to their clothes collection, which occupies 60 percent of their budget, Populo also sells German- designed interior products such as dinner sets, glassware and stationary. They also offer interior design consulting services for those who need styling advice.