Newcomer designer Populo offers elegant simplicity
Newcomer designer Populo offers elegant simplicity
By Dini S. Djalal
JAKARTA (JP): As fashion shows go, this was different. The man
strolled out in a white T-shirt and white cotton trousers, dark
sunglasses masking a famous face. But the glaring spotlights and
the cheering audience lining the runway gave the game away: pop
singer Harvey Malaiholo was modeling the latest collection of
Indonesia-based design house Populo.
He wasn't the only non-professional model in the show. In
order to cut costs and remain true to its motto of "personal
style", Populo hired "real people" to model in their fashion
show. Poolside at the Hilton Executive Club on April 21, an
assortment of Jakarta's young (and not-so-young) professionals,
both Indonesian and expatriates, hammed it up for the cameras.
Lawyer Yanti Abdurrachman noted it was all in good fun.
"It was really hectic backstage, because we're not
professional models," she said, "but we had a really good time."
The 1990s is the age of "personal style." From Calvin Klein
boutiques to multi-story GAP emporiums, fashion's biggest
commodity are the endless variations of "basics": those T-shirts
and jeans that everyone can't seem to get enough of.
Populo, established in March 1994 by German-born Indonesian
Joseph Lim, may be seen as Indonesia's first foray into the
multi-million-dollar "basics" industry.
Lim and his partner, Bambang Prihantoro, popularly known as
Ba'i, describe Populo's style as "simple, luxurious, and
timeless." With a price range between Rp 400,000 and Rp 600,000
for men's shirts to Rp 2 million for ladies' evening wear, one
should underline the word "luxurious".
The price shouldn't detract from the beauty of these
exceptionally exquisite clothes. From the subtle coquettishness
of a shrunken T-shirt dress to the self-assured sensuality of a
silver sheath, Populo's offerings are quietly provocative. Anyone
seeking to boost the glamour quotient in their lives should get
on Populo's mailing list.
Simplicity
The show itself was enough to entice prospective customers.
Slow bass grooves and a cool breeze simmered through the swaying
palm trees and a captive audience. Outdoor shows should
definitely be held more often in our tropical town.
When the models appeared down the runway for the men's ready-
to-wear collection, initially nothing revolutionary seemed afoot.
Linen shirts and trousers in various shades of brown and beige,
and the occasional pinstriped waistcoat were sported by grinning
barefoot boys. The jackets were expertly molded in unconstructed
fashion, with rounded shoulders softly falling to generously-cut
sleeves. All were single-breasted and modeled in light airy
fabrics.
Sunglasses seemed to be the main accessory for the show,
either to evoke a bad attitude or a self-conscious sense of je ne
sais quoi. It often works well teamed with a casual suit and
carefree manner. Other times the look was a reminder of teenage
boys discovering the 3 "S"s on a Kontiki or Eurail summer
holiday. A slight pale man glided slowly and serenely in a
handsome checked blazer and black wool crepe trousers -- he had
to be English.
Whereas the men posed macho-like in Mediterranean earth tones,
the women strictly wore white. White shifts in a plethora of
shapes and fabrics were worn with a confident tan and bright red
lips. White-on-white and minimal accessories were also the theme
of cotton shirts and trousers. Simplicity redefined. Some
pairings came in very light lime-green cottons and linens.
Knitwear was suggestively sheer. A Sophia-Loren look-alike wore
only a matching strapless bra underneath her slinky netting,
eliciting gasps and a few catcalls.
The evening collection pushed the electric charge to a higher
level. Men wore shiny black shirts or black suits over shirt
collars wider than the Continental divide. All that was missing
were snakeskin loafers, a straw fedora and a chunky cigar to
complete the camp Cuban look. Surprisingly, these ensembles
worked, if only because the 1970s are still in revival.
Ladies evening wear went beyond all expectations. Designed by
German Torsten Sannwald, everything came in black with texture
being the only contrast. A babydoll-dress with layers of stiff
crushed taffeta as an apron seemed light years away from the long
and lean shift of black satin. But that is the gift of Populo.
Every dress had a different character, and cut simply in
deceptively clever patterns. The only departures from the black-
on-black combination were the use of silver bodysuits with black
trousers.
Manufacturing
This is only Populo's second collection, a surprising detail
considering the cohesiveness of his vision. Ba'i explains that
this is what differentiates Populo from other Indonesian
designers.
"A collection has to have a full range, taking note of common
style and color. I don't feel that the other designers manage
this," said Ba'i.
Differences between Populo and other Indonesian designers do
not stop there. Populo's men's pants and suits are sub-contracted
out to Germany while everything else is manufactured in Italy.
"The fabrics are very difficult to handle and the models are
difficult to copy," said Joseph Lim. "We did a study for two
years on whether we should manufacture in Indonesia, and in the
end we decided that manufacturing quality here is not yet good
enough for luxury goods standards," Lim said.
Lim and Ba'i both agree that Populo caters to only a small
segment of the Indonesian market.
"There are lots of rich people in Jakarta," explained Ba'i,
"but people who buy our clothes also have character, not only
money." Lim also contends that European manufacturing gives
confidence to their customers.
"Indonesians like to spend money, but only if the quality is
very high," said Lim. Ba'i adds that "Indonesians will not part
with their money for something made in Indonesia."
Not surprisingly, Populo's aspirations lie overseas.
"It's not so important for us to grow in Indonesia, but to
expand in other parts of Asia. Because competition and costs in
Europe are very high, our future is in Asia," Lim explained.
Currently selling from their showroom in Pancoran, South
Jakarta, Populo's line will be available in May at Blok M's Seibu
Dept. store. In addition to their clothes collection, which
occupies 60 percent of their budget, Populo also sells German-
designed interior products such as dinner sets, glassware and
stationary. They also offer interior design consulting services
for those who need styling advice.