Makassar: Brimming with sights and surprises

John Badalu, Contributor, Makassar

With a population now in excess of one million people, Makassar is the sixth largest city in the country. Its Chinese population is, surprisingly, one of the biggest after Medan in Sumatra and Pontianak in Kalimantan. However, Makassar is actually quite a melting pot of different tribes, with the Makassarese and Buginese comprising the majority.

Every plane going to the east usually stops over here. The port itself is also one of the busiest, as it is a transit for all state-run PELNI ships going east and the starting point of phinisi schooners transporting timber from Kalimantan island to Jakarta.

What is unique about Makassar (which was formerly known as Ujung Pandang, a name some people continue to use for it) is that the center of the town is dominated by the Chinese and you can enjoy the whole range of Chinese food in every corner.

There are some old Chinese temples on Jl. Sulawesi dating back to 1650. Unfortunately, the main temple was burned down during the unrest in 1997 and all that is left is the gate.

Makassar is an industrial town although there are still a few old Dutch houses (most of them have been demolished) and the traditional Chinese houses have been replaced with steel constructions to protect them if riots occur again.

The main attraction is Fort Rotterdam. The fort was built in the 16th century and the Portuguese took over and reconstructed it in 1545, but it was then captured by the Dutch in 1608. The shape of the fort, located by the seaside, is like a turtle and it contains 13 buildings, 11 built by the Dutch and two by the Japanese during the war. There is the La Galigo Museum (entrance fee Rp. 1,700) to explore the ethnology and history of the city's most famous site.

Another interesting place to visit is Clara Bundt's orchid nursery on Jl. Mochtar Lutfi (ring the bell at the garage entrance). The amazing garden was built in the 1930s and they started selling the orchids in the 1950s. There are more than 100 kinds of orchids found here; they bloom in March and September.

Besides the orchids, Miss Clara has over 200 varieties in an astonishing seashell collection. Some of the orchids and seashells are for sale but it is more her passion in preserving them for her private collection.

Losari Beach is the place where the locals come and enjoy the beautiful sunsets every afternoon. The beach itself is not really that pleasant as it is like a dam, but nothing can beat the sunset. A stroll along the beach is also fun as you can enjoy all the yummy fresh seafood, or try the famous homemade ice cream at Pier 52 in the complex of Makassar Golden Hotel. The bakery also is one of the best in town.

Have you been to Sunda Kelapa harbor in Jakarta? If you have, then don't bother to go to Paotere harbor. It is exactly the same because they are all the same boats that go back and forth from Jakarta to Makassar.

Use your time instead to see other things, such as the Diponegoro tomb on Jl. Diponegoro. Diponegoro is one the greatest heroes in the country's history. The 19th century Javanese prince was captured in Java and exiled by the Dutch colonists to Makassar, where he spent the last 26 years of his life.

If you are still interested in seeing dead bodies, maybe it's time to go further north to Tana Toraja, which is an eight-hour bus drive from Makassar. It is home to one of the biggest celebrations among funeral ceremonies.

It seems like Makassar residents know how to eat well. The Chinese food is excellent wherever you go, and local treats from seafood to pisang epek (grilled bananas) is dangerously delicious.

What makes the seafood different from the rest of Indonesia is the sambal (chili paste). Sambal here is not just the basic crushed chili, but it is mixed with sweet soy sauce and some red onions and a dash of lime.

Most of the food here is salty and spicy hot. Coto Makassar is the local soto (soup). Different from other broths from other parts of the archipelago, this soup is brown, with a peanut powder broth and buffalo intestines. This savory, super- nutritious soup can be found almost everywhere.

Pisang Epek is one of the local favorite sunset snacks. It consists of grilled bananas and is flat pressed with the brown sugar and durian-tasting-caramel-like thick sauce. Sweet and nice.

You can find seafood everywhere, but the finest crab dishes in the world can be had at Surya Restaurant on Jl. Nusakambangan. They have a variety of crab dishes, but the best I tried is crab with butter sauce. If you want to try any seafood dish a la Chinese, go to Rumah Makan Ujung Pandang on Jl. Wahidin Sudirohusodo (also known as Jl. Irian).

Most of the finest tourist attraction are outside of Makassar. To get there, you can either take public transportation (the departure point is at Pasar Sentral, the central market), or you can also try to take an organized tour or charter a car.

The best travel agents for organized tours are on Jl. Jampea. The Legend Hotel has all different tours to the islands and other sites and another is Sena Tours and Travels.

The 15-meter Bantimurung waterfall is located 41 km from town. It can be crowded on the weekends. Climb the side of the waterfall to trek further into the jungle or explore the caves or swim in the upper falls. The best viewing time for butterflies is in the morning.

A few kilometers from there is the archeological park of Leang-Leang. The site dates back to the Mesolithic Era with some handprints and prehistoric paintings believed to be at least 5,000 years old.

Samalona Island is off the coast. You can either charter a boat next to the Kayangan Island recreation office (you have to bargain) or ask your travel agent. The small island is the best spot for swimming and snorkeling around. Its crisp, clean water is so refreshing, and worth a day trip. They have some basic bungalows if you want to stay overnight.

Malino is a cool hill resort, just like the Puncak area outside Jakarta. The winding snaky road on a two-hour trip is beautiful, with its pine tree jungle and breathtaking views. Four kilometers from Malino is the Takapala Waterfall in the midst of the rice paddies.

There are more places further north to see: famous Tana Toraja, the beautiful white sand beach in Bira down south, and the Tempe and Sidenreng lakes in the Buginese area of Sengkang. South Sulawesi is definitely an island full of surprising adventures, and Makassar can be your starting point.