Madurese bull racing a lucrative tradition

Madurese bull racing a lucrative tradition

Indra Harsaputra, The Jakarta Post/Pamekasan, Madura

"I was not disappointed about losing in the semi-final. We don't care how much money we have spent as the most important thing is that bull racing survives," said one of the participants, Atlah Hadianto of Pamekasan.

Atlah said he had entered his racing bulls in the traditional event since 1980, at the regency or municipal level, and that he had never won. "Only this time I could get to the semi-final at the municipal level," he said.

Failing to win, he said, does not mean staying away from this annual event for ever. "You lose because of your bad fortune. Even before the race begins, you don't think about winning," he noted.

Atlah takes part to help preserve the sport. Bull racing brings pride and dignity to the Madurese among other community members in Indonesia.

Atlah said he spent over Rp 10 million for the race, a greater amount than the prizes he stood to gain if he won, such as a trophy and a television set or a motorcycle.

This amount of money is usually spent on taking care of the pair of racing bulls. Prior to the race, the bull is given a special herbal tonic that includes honey, wine, coffee and egg yolks. Then, a special masseur will massage the bull to strengthen and tone it for the race. A masseur's fee is about Rp 1 million.

Then, the owner has to perform a rite for the protection of the bull. The rite costs between Rp 5 million and Rp 6 million.

Atlah also has to hire dancers and seronen musicians (seronen is a uniquely Madurese percussion music). The music, which accompanies the procession prior to a bull race, is compulsory. He pays between Rp 1 million and Rp 2 million to the dancers. "I also have to hire a jockey, who is selected from a number of candidates," he said.

Before taking part in a race at the Madura level, the bulls must first be a champion in each of the four regencies in Madura (Bangkalan, Sampang, Pamekasan and Sumenep).

A bull that wins a race can be sold to a bull racing buff or to a trader at between Rp 150 million and Rp 200 million. although in reality this rarely happens.

"It does not stand to reason. You must spend at least Rp 5 million a month for the daily care of your bull. Usually you won't sell your bull, no matter what the price," he said.

There is something more valuable than money behind a buffalo race. Haji Sodiq, a racing bull owner from Sampang, said although he lost and spent a lot of money, a bull race was an occasion for a family gathering. All our family members and relatives take part in our team, he said.

If the bull wins, the family of the owner will celebrate and all the relatives will have a share of the fortune. "In short, a bull race, although it may be very expensive, promotes family unity," he noted.

The Madurese people are very enthusiastic about this race. Spectators also come from outside Madura like Surabaya, Gresik, Pasuruan and several other cities in East Java. Even foreign tourists are keen to watch this race and are often seen taking photographs or filming the event.

The race held at Sunarto Hadi Wijoyo stadium in Pamekasan regency earlier last month was different from the previous ones. In 2002, for example, there was an entrance fee of Rp 5,000 but this time it was free of charge. The organizing committee wanted to revive enthusiasm in this race, which has dropped in the last few years.

To highlight the event, the bulls taking part in the race will join a parade to the accompaniment of seronen music and tandhak or the whip dance.

In addition, a sonok cow contest is held on the same day. Sonok cows are decorated in a regal dress. The winner would be the cow that can sashay down the "catwalk" or demonstrate an attractive dance movement or pose. The most important test for a winner comes at the end of the contest when the cows have to enter a room full of mirrors. Many cows are afraid of this room and so they fail. Only trained cows are able to enter the room.

For the Madurese people, a bull race, which is held after a tobacco harvest, brings in additional fortune. Many people will bet on the race, staking between Rp 1,000 and hundreds of millions of rupiah. Big betters will get a place in the podium, while others just stand along the racecourse, with betting card in hand. Big betters will do the transactions outside the arena or the night before the race.

"For the Madurese people, a bull race is a tradition that brings fortune to all Madurese," said Choiri, a student from Sampang, studying at National Development University (UPN) in East Java.