Lukas speaks for the Land of Deities

Lukas speaks for the Land of Deities

Tarko Sudiarno, Contributor/Wonosobo, Central Java

The 30 Dutch tourists were getting more and more impatient for the first ray of sunshine, as their guide, Lukas Agus Tjugianto, had told them sunrise came twice on Dieng Plateau, Central Java.

"There are two sunrises. The Gold Sunrise and the Silver Sunrise," said Lukas, 64, who has a great store of stories about the plateau and is eager to relate them to every visitor.

That night, Lukas impressed upon the curious tourists the unique mystery of nature surrounding the plateau.

Almost always enveloped in mist, Dieng is indeed, as legends have it, the land of deities.

Lukas knows virtually everything about the plateau, having explored the area since he was a fifth grader. He has explored its caves, scaled its high hills and even swum across the cold, vast Menjer Lake.

He knows the best time for tourists to visit these sites and knows all the related folklore -- which is why his name can be found easily in guidebooks published abroad as a reputable Dieng expert. It is no wonder that foreign tourists visiting Dieng seek him out.

Lukas warmly welcomes all tourists, and his hospitality and captivating stories become part of the fond memories tourists take with them when they depart.

Therefore, it is only appropriate that in October 2003, the Indonesian government awarded him with the Adikarya Pariwisata as a token of appreciation for his dedication to tourism, particularly in regards the Dieng Plateau.

With his signature long, white beard, Lukas appears to have been destined to be Dieng's spokesperson.

Born in Wonosobo, Central Java, Lukas graduated from the Yogyakarta Sports' Teacher College and was an athletics teacher in his hometown until 1973, when he took over his parents' restaurant business.

In his spare time, he guided the tourists who stopped by the restaurant and jot down local information on some rice paper. When he thought he had collected enough information about Dieng Plateau, he decided to print a proper guidebook.

Prompted by the great influx of tourists to Indonesia and in view of the increasing demand for his expertise among those visiting Dieng, Lukas and his wife set up a hotel and a restaurant in the border area between Wonosobo and Temanggung. The hotel was to be the stop-off for tourists wishing to visit Dieng and its surrounding areas.

Located on a tobacco plantation between Mount Sumbing and Mount Sindoro is Lukas' Dieng Kledung Pass Hotel and Restaurant. Tourists like to spend days at the hotel, enjoying the charm of the two mountains and the hospitality of the hotel owner.

"Actually, our hotel and restaurant offer basic facilities, but tourists feel at home here, perhaps because we treat them like family," said Lukas.

Ever resourceful, perhaps it is Lukas' thoughtful and considerate manner of recommending touring options that draws tourists to his door. He will tell them, for example, how to behave when visiting Bima Temple, one of the sacred temples of Dieng Plateau, which is used to this day for local rites.

Lukas tells his guests what they should do to respect the local beliefs surrounding the temple.

"Before you savor the imposing stature of the temple, you must walk clockwise around it seven times right after you arrive. Then, bow your head and enter the temple. Remember, don't look up until you are inside," he will tell them slowly and seriously.

Many tourists had benefited from following the custom, he explained, adding quickly that he was not teaching anything related to mysticism.

"But let me give a logical explanation for walking with our heads bowed when climbing to and entering the temple. As we keep our heads bowed, we gradually adjust to the darkness inside. Once we get inside and look up, our eyes are used to the dark and can see the walls of the temple. Obviously, we can enjoy the architecture of the temple despite the dark. You can see for yourself the difference if you walk inside without bowing your head."

Nowadays, Lukas is worried that no one will replace him as a "Dieng expert" and is greatly concerned about its present state of neglect. His only daughter, Eunike Hartanti, is not interested in the job, and prefers to work in a large hotel in Yogyakarta.

"The only way to make the younger generation interested in and concerned about Dieng is to include a special course about Dieng tourism in the curriculum of schools in Wonosobo. I'm willing to teach, free of charge. I would like to spend the rest of my life teaching and leaving Dieng in the care of the younger generation," he said.