Lovina gains popularity with tourists

Wahyuni Kamah, Contributor, Denpasar

Lovina may not be as popular as Kuta or Ubud for either local or foreign tourists. The name itself is quite strange, even to the Balinese. It was Singarajan poet A.A. Panji Tisna, author of the popular novel Sukreni Gadis Bali (Sukreni, Balinese Girl), who came up with the name, which stands for "Love Indonesia".

Located seven kilometers west of Singaraja, the capital of Buleleng Regency in North Bali, Lovina was just a fishing village twenty years ago and the people relied solely on agriculture and fishing for their livelihoods.

Now the area, which extends from Anturan in the east to Temukus in the west, boasts luxury hotels, a wide range of accommodation and good value restaurants. The foreign tourists who now flock here have changed the face of Lovina.

Even so, people can still find poor fishing villages, witness traditional village life, watch genuine cultural performances, visit the area's natural wonders and savor the tasty local food.

With its black sandy beach, Lovina is striving to build an image as an alternative tourist destination, featuring both water-based activities and cultural attractions.

Here, numerous guides offer dolphin tours just off Lovina's shoreline, where the creatures are frequently spotted early in the morning. Local residents have gone so far as to adopt the dolphin as the town mascot and have even constructed a dolphin statue at Lovina beach.

Tourists wishing to join a dolphin tour can go to the Kalibukbuk area, where the boat operators are experienced and professional.

One operator named Nana, for instance, is even willing to return half the cost of the tour if no dolphins are spotted during the trip. "You get a money back guarantee. You only pay for the fuel," he said.

Nana, who has been in the business for more than seven years, also offers snorkeling after the tour. "I'll take you to a beautiful coral reef and the habitat of aquarium fish," he said.

A dolphin tour, including snorkeling, takes about two hours, with prices ranging from Rp 50,000 (US$4.80) to Rp 60,000 per person. But tourists still need to bargain.

Most boats used in the tour are traditional, bamboo models with a motor attached. The boats usually leave the beach at 6 a.m., and head straight for the waters where the dolphins usually swim. Once there, the tourists wait expectantly for the dolphins to appear, which they will do if the sky is clear and the seas are not too rough. Unfortunately, some of them quickly disappear when the boats start approaching.

Another attraction you can find in Lovina is the Sapi Gerumbungan cow race, which takes place on a muddy track. Unlike other similar races, at the end of the race spectators who want to take the riders' place are invited to join in.

Despite the small number of spectators, the show always goes ahead. According to the local organizer, the race is held twice a week in peak season and once a week during the low season.

"We should be smart enough to entertain the tourists who stay in our home stays," said Agung, one of the home stay owners in Lovina. "And I offer them new spots to visit that haven't been promoted."

Staying in Lovina means being free of traffic jams, while witnessing traditional village life and enjoying the quiet atmosphere.