Losari offers respite for body and soul

Losari offers respite for body and soul

Kunang Helmi, Contributor, Magelang, C. Java

In 1991, Italian national and long-time resident of Indonesia Gabriella Teggia discovered and succumbed to the charm of the 22- hectare, historic Karang Redjo coffee plantation, which borders the Central Javanese village Losari-Grabag.

Nestled at 900 meters above sea level in the highlands of Magelang district, the plantation is easily accessible by car from Semarang, Solo and Yoygakarta -- all with flights from Jakarta, Bali and Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

Teggia was not only impressed by the faded elegance of the original 1828 Dutch mansion, set amid 5 acres of lawn and trees atop the plantation's central hill, but also by the serene beauty of the lush landscape, surrounded by eight guardian volcanoes: Merapi, Andong, Merbabu, Telomoyo, Sumbing, Sindoro, Perahu and Ungaran.

She was already familiar with the province of Central Java -- rich in historical sites of Hindu and Buddhist temples, as well as its royal courts -- and the enterprising Italian had a vision: the still functioning coffee plantation would provide an exclusive setting for guests to recover from the stress of modern life. Guests could walk freely around the plantation and surrounding hills, or enjoy excursions further afield.

The plantation was renamed Losari -- meaning "soul of trees", derived from Sanskrit and Ancient Javanese -- and Teggia realized her vision: Losari Coffee Plantation -- Resort & Spa.

The 1992 inception of Losari's eco-resort and spa, blending colonial, Javanese and modern architecture in its facilities, was finally brought to fruition in December 2004 for a soft opening.

Teggia engaged compatriot Franco Cusumano as general manager to oversee a staff of 165. Cusumano deals with daily logistics, assisted by internationally experienced operations manager Yoni Hendri.

The highly personable Cusumano, who is married to an Indonesian, speaks fluent Bahasa Indonesia, has solid experience working in Bali for Indonesian and international clientele and an eye for details that count.

For guests, after unwinding in individual villas, a wide variety of activities -- for mind, body and spirit -- are available, centered around the spa and Turkish steam bath, or try outdoor yoga, trekking, walking and tennis.

Losari takes a holistic approach to life, from traditional Javanese remedies to the best of international treatment.

Guests are greeted at the plantation by the restored 1878 Mayong train station, which was rescued from destruction and now serves as the resort's reception area.

Upon further inquiry, curious visitors will learn about another extraordinary Java adventure to be had: A short drive away is the Losari-Bedono train station, where the original 1909 Queen of the Mountains cogwheel steam train awaits passengers. Scheduled to restart its run shortly, the train will take guests on a two-hour journey through the spectacular landscape to Ambarawa to the sole train museum in Indonesia and back. This is only one of 11 excursions to places of interest nearby, which also includes Borobudur, Prambanan and the Dieng Plateau.

The early morning guided tour of the coffee plantation is an experience not to be missed. High-quality Robusta coffee is cultivated here, mingled with some Arabica and a small percentage of Excel coffee. Visitors learn all about how coffee is grown, harvested and roasted.

Besides the coffee, which can be consumed in Italian and Indonesian styles, most of the fresh vegetables and herbs on the resort menu comes from local organic gardens, another destination on the sunrise trek. In addition, Losari honey from fragrant white coffee flowers and jam from dragon's eye fruit are produced nearby.

The restored 1828 mansion and neighboring plantation bar are spectacular venues for sunrise and sunset encounters, and are where early breakfast or high tea is served. A fully equipped library is waiting to be discovered here, along with the excursions office, full of information about activities and bookings. On weekends, a live performance on the resort's grand piano floats in the air.

The free gentle yoga classes are conducted in different areas of the garden at 8 a.m., while Javanese dance lessons are on offer in the afternoon. A Javanese herbal remedy kiosk in the lower garden offers fresh tonics -- also gratis -- mixed and served by an authentic jamu lady whom guests can consult.

Losari has 26 centrally distributed villas built in harmony with nature. Ranging from 100 sqm to 135 sqm, each villa is unique in its architecture, incorporating the designs of traditional wooden houses brought here from different regions of Java.

Features common to all are large living areas, comfortable king-sized beds, free-form bathtubs and breathtaking views from private verandas over the plantation or at the surrounding volcanoes. Antique and contemporary pieces from Teggia's art collection provide unusual finishing touches to the decor.

In addition, the resort has Bella Vista Villa for large family gatherings. One can book either three or five bedrooms in the villa, formerly the country abode of a Javanese prince. Bella Vista comes complete with a private swimming pool, a kitchen and butler service. Needless to say, all villas come with the requisite modern facilities, such as air conditioners, Internet connection and satellite TV, among others.

Recently, the entire resort was booked over a long weekend for an international wedding, with visitors arriving from throughout the archipelago and overseas. Executive seminars and art exhibitions are also possibilities in the two fully equipped on- site meeting rooms, which hold up to 70 people.

The rooms are located off the spacious pendopo, or Javanese hall, near the entrance to the resort, where children from the neighborhood take their afternoon dance lessons. The hall also functions as a venue for evening gamelan and kroncong recitals.

Losari has two restaurants to cater to guests: Java Red, with its eclectic menu of Mediterranean gourmet dishes and fresh interpretation of Indonesian nouvelle cuisine, is divided between an air-conditioned dining room for special events seating 70 guests, while open air breakfast and all-day dining takes place on covered Javanese wooden terraces above the spa; and the pool- side Java Green, which specializes in lighter fare.

The focus of the Losari experience remains its spa, featuring a genuine hamam, or Turkish steam bath, plunge pools and individual treatment rooms for total pampering. World-weary guests may choose from day packages and spa retreats from 90 minutes to five days.

Teggia emphasizes: "The three-story oasis facing a verdant green valley with towering trees was created for the day spa's tranquility and renewal, or a retreat in the art of personal well being."

The 600 sqm crescent-shaped spa was designed by Italian architects Andrea and Fabrizio Magnaghi. Inspired by ancient royal Javanese baths, the outdoor octagonal swimming pool is filled with fresh water from a pristine underwater river.

The hamam -- with separate facilities for men and women -- is an authentic Turkish steam bath, with Javanese tiles of yellow volcanic rock and complete with relaxation rooms. The moist, steamy heat of a traditional hamam offers the perfect opportunity for deep cleansing and detoxification, followed by a fragrant oil massage incorporating gommage, a brisk exfoliation treatment using natural salts and local loofahs.

Californian spa expert Susan Stein, of Jari Menari (dancing fingers) in Bali, who has set up many renowned spas in Asia, visits regularly to train Losari's spa staff in various massage techniques while tending to quality control. In concert with Teggia, she advocates the use of natural products and Indonesian herbal recipes, such as the coffee-based soap developed specially for Losari.

A 45-minute non-oil massage reassures newly arrived guests, with an emphasis on the back, neck, scalp and feet. Among the choices of spa treatments is the Losari signature long-stroke massage for stress relief -- created by Stein -- that address the pressure points along the body's energy lines. The massage is combined with gentle stretching to stimulate energy flow and to ease muscle tension, and a hot floral bath completes the relaxation process.

Losari also offers the traditional Indonesian massage with a slight modification by Stein. The energetic thumb-pressure technique is employed to release muscular tension, followed by a gripping technique to reset the immune system and muscle strength. A hot stone massage is recommended on the following day, which releases tight muscles with the penetrating heat of basalt volcanic stones, relieved by cool massage pressure.

Another, 160-minute energizing treat is based on traditional Italian marine mud wraps for the body, with original ahava products from Italy. The detoxifying wrap contains an abundance of minerals and organic plants with algae extracts to absorb impurities and to stimulate blood circulation. Beneficial treatments for hair, face and feet are also available.

At the fitness and yoga center, afternoon yoga lessons can be booked. Javanese wellness therapist and yoga teacher, Azmi Samdjaga, who spent three years studying yoga in Mysore, India, flies in from Singapore at least once a month to train Losari's resident yoga teachers and masseurs. He is also available for individual guest consultations about fitness, exercise and maintaining a healthy lifestyle.

True to Teggia's vision, the principle of rediscovering a healthy approach to life is a distinct possibility at Losari. The surrounding, unspoiled natural environment and the spa treatments contribute greatly to the well-being of all guests. Of course, it is also an ideal spot just to relax and read -- a stay of at least five days is highly recommended.

Losari Coffee Plantation -- Resort & Spa, Desa Losari-Grabag, P.O. Box 108, Magelang 56100. Tel +62-298-596333; Fax +62-298- 592696. info@losaricoffeeplantation.com; www.losaricoffeeplantation.com. Special rates apply for residents of Indonesia, inclusive of breakfast, high tea, coffee plantation tour and airport transfers.