Londoners pedal their way to new home in New Zealand
By Yoko N. Sari
JAKARTA (JP): Robert and Philippa NcNaughtan left London on March 15, 1993, to emigrate to New Zealand where they hope to start a new life. But they are not in a hurry.
More than a year later, after snow, rain and heat, they are still one country and one continent away from getting there.
The London couple is pedaling their way to New Zealand and March, which they spent in Indonesia, was a special month for Robert and Philippa.
It was their third wedding anniversary, the first time they crossed the equator in West Sumatra, and also marked their first year on the road.
"We wanted to emigrate the slow way," Robert told The Jakarta Post during the couple's recent stop in Jakarta. "When I first went to New Zealand, I saw the desert from the airplane window and I thought it would be nice to go through those deserts."
His wish was granted.
Now Robert and Philippa, both 34, have rung up 16,000 km through 15 countries in Europe and Asia, riding through snow and rain, in the flat and hours in ascent.
It's not a cheap adventure. They paid US$748 for each of their custom-made bicycles, which is about the one-way airfare from London to New Zealand. But they get to see the world.
The couple also tried to travel as lightly as possible, bringing two pairs of clothes each because they have to carry emergency kits, light food, camping kits and maps. Together, they still carry between 40kg and 45 kg on their bikes.
"Sometimes it's tiring to wear the same outfit all the time," Philippa said.
Robert is a British computer systems analyst from London, while Philippa was a gymnastics teacher from New Zealand.
He explained that originally they planned to use a motorcycle, but fortunately for them it was stolen in London. So they settled for bicycles.
"It's cheaper and easier to carry when you have to cross muddy roads or get on a ferry," Philippa said.
The couple realized that their journey will long but one that allows them not only to see more of the world, but also learn of the life, beliefs and culture of the people in places they pass.
"It's amazing when we see different things, and knowing that they are people who like to help despite our differences," Philippa said. "Even in Iran, a country which is portrayed as a terrorist country, the people are so helpful and kind."
Both Robert and Philippa said they have not encountered any major problems to speak of during their journey.
There was one small road accident in Italy. And there was the time when their bikes were stolen in Turkey, but they recovered them after the mother of the thief phoned to say that she had the bikes.
Otherwise, they have managed to get by.
Their secret is to be always careful, and respect local customs, and heed any warnings given by local people.
"For example, many people told us not to cross an area called Lahat in Bengkulu because there are muggers and we did not cross it," told Robert.
"In Iran I wore long skirt down to my heels, a scarf covering my hair and a veil hiding my face, and there was no trouble at all, I could ride anywhere," said Philippa. She wore the same costumes in Pakistan, another Islamic country.
Their major enemy is the traffic, and not the people or animals in the jungle, they said, adding that the chance of getting mugged was bigger in London than in any other place they've visited.
"We always worry about the traffic. Philippa was struck by a car in Italy," Robert said. "We think the craziest traffic is in India."
The couple set off from London on March 15, 1993, crossing the straits of Dover and on to Luxembourg. On March 12, 1994 they arrived in Belawan harbor in North Sumatra to start cycling through Java and Bali.
Overwhelmed
They found that Indonesians, especially the young people, are overwhelmed by a couple of Westerners riding bicycles.
"I was surprised when people waved at us and yelled `tourist!' and shock when small kids yelled `I love you'. Every time we stop, people gather around us look at us with curious eyes," Robert said.
Cycling down Sumatra they visited Lake Toba in the north and Lake Maninjau in the west.
They kept to the western part of Sumatra mainly to avoid having to go through the highway, choosing instead the smaller lanes.
"The roads in Sumatra are hilly, and we are regularly soaked by afternoon downpours, but we just let our outfit dry on our body because we don't want to wait for the rain to stop," Philippa said.
One time they were trapped on a muddy road near Liwa, Western Lampung, when they tried to follow a shorter route shown on the map. "Luckily a team of seismologists rescued us, and carried our bikes to the main road. We decided that we will never cross a shorter route again," Robert explained.
They spent four days, covering 2,400 km in Sumatra before they crossed the Sunda strait taking the ferry from Bakaheuni to Merak at the western tip of Java on March 15.
"We are heading for Bali before we fly to Darwin in Australia," Robert said.
Regret
He has one regret about Indonesia and that is that he could not spend more time here because immigration only allowed them two month visas, which are non-extendible unless they fly out of the country first.
The couple also has a mission.
They have to give out some US$5,300 of funds raised from companies and individuals in England before they left to projects under the Intermediate Technology, a charity organization that promotes self help projects in various developing countries.
"We were raising money on behalf of Intermediate Technology, and donate it to projects including a number which we have passed on our way," said Robert.
They have to send report periodically about the journey to the people who donated.
But it does not mean that they are financing the journey with the money. "We pay for our journey, from our private savings," said Philippa.
What makes them continue the journey despite losing weight, cycling in bad weather, missing friends, food, and family?. "The great satisfaction we feel inside every time we reach one point after hours of pedaling," Robert said.