Thu, 21 Jul 2005

Local food irreplaceable for Indonesians in America

Armando Siahaan, Contributor, Jakarta

Assimilation, a process whereby immigrants integrate with the culture of the host country, is probably the norm for many Indonesians who emigrate abroad to the United States.

But there is one culture that many of them seem unwilling to assimilate: food.

It is true that during the initial stages, many Indonesians are attracted by American food such as burgers, pastas and steaks.

In due course, they reach a point where the flavor offered by American food just cannot replace the richness in flavor of Indonesian food.

The craving for Indonesian food was, in the past, an insoluble problem for Indonesian emigrants, because not many of them were willing to open an Indonesian restaurant.

Today, finding Indonesian food is no longer a problem as there is already a plethora of restaurants dedicated to the cuisine in a number of states.

In New York, five Indonesian restaurants are scattered through Manhattan, Queens and Brooklyn. Places like Borobudur Cafe and Upi Jaya offer Indonesian food, with the latter specializing in Padang cuisine.

In Philadelphia, there is Indonesia restaurant, one of the most prominent of its type in America. The restaurant offers a wide range selection of authentic Indonesian food, serving up to 119 items on the menu.

Other states like California and Ohio are also home to Indonesian restaurants. Many of those that live far from them travel to where they are located.

For those who do not have the luxury of going to a restaurant, a new alternative is being offered by some immigrants. Some emigrants use their kitchens as a basis for door-to-door home cooking businesses.

For example, Mbok Nana in Maryland serves up Indonesian food. She basically cooks the food at her apartment, sells it at US$7 per meal or set menu and delivers it.

Aside from that, Indonesians can also enjoy their food at events organized by the Indonesian embassy, such as during the fasting month (Ramadan), bazaars at the ambassador's residence, or during celebrations of Independence Day.

During these events, the large numbers of Indonesians attending indicates the level of craving for food from back home. Many are not ashamed to admit that they come to these events purely for the food.

A lot also admit that it is only during events like this they can enjoy Indonesian food in a vendor-like atmosphere.

Living on foreign soil inevitably forces people to assimilate and eventually reduces their appreciation of their own culture: That is almost inevitable.

Fortunately, the Indonesian community in the U.S. can unite around their food, which can also boost their sense of national pride.

(The writer is an Indonesian studying at George Washington University, Washington, DC, U.S.)