Local designs struggle against massive attack

Jakarta's socialites still prefer Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga to creations by local fashion designers. Jakarta Post contributor Syahmedi Dean looks at the hits and misses of 2005 and finds that a bit of competition can be a good thing.

In a matter of days, we will say goodbye to 2005 and get ready for the New Year -- with all its new collections, new styles and new ideas. But before we embark on next season, let's cast a look back at who have become the new stars in Indonesia fashion. Are they the domestic designers or their foreign rivals?

The best way to find out what brands are "in" is to attend the many fashion events and parties held by the Jakarta jet-set. Unfortunately, not everyone can easily get invited to such elite events, which welcome only those whose names are on the high- society list -- the people who regularly feature in the Harper's Bazaar, Dewi and Prestige magazines.

Still, there is an easier way to find out how Jakarta society is dressed: just take a close look at the "People" pages of these magazines. The pictures on these pages speak volumes -- most importantly, the brands and the designers of the outfits these sparkling clothes horses wear. They are also a good fashion bellwether, showing who and what's hot -- and who and what isn't.

The parties attended by Jakarta's socialites and the coverage in lifestyle magazines show that only a few well-heeled women wear dresses designed by Indonesians. Many of these women prefer -- and look more confident in -- imported designs. Take, for example, a birthday party in an elite restaurant at the BNI 45 Tower. Many female guests went hither and thither in dresses designed by Valentino, BCBG, Chloe, Chanel, Anna Molinari and Matthew Williamson. Surprisingly, all came from the latest collections -- none wore dresses from last season. In one afternoon tea at Rumah Kertanegara, the women looked relaxed and hospitable in dresses by Lanvin, Dior, Stella McCartney, Gucci, Giorgio Armani, Celine and YSL.

Pffff! Where on earth are the works of Indonesian fashion designers?

Of all the local designers whose names appeared in the great number of high-society gatherings in Jakarta, Sebastian Gunawan was one of the only Indonesian designers who was consistently present. No one knows how he does it, but most fashionistas think of his works as being on par with imported designs. Then there were the other names: Biyan, Ronald V Gaghana and Arantxa Adi, who cropped up among the biggies like Prada and Balenciaga. Others who appeared less frequently were Tri Handoko, Denny Wirawan, Deden Siswanto and Sally Koeswanto.

At a party marking the opening of Louis Vuitton's new boutique held in early December at Plaza Senayan -- an event considered the pinnacle of fashion gatherings this year -- many female guests donned dresses by Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton while others wore Celine and Chanel.

The party was so crowded, the poor wee things had to jostle with one another for a seat. One of the women wore a blouse made of layers of vintage lace, a design by Priyo Oktaviano. She looked composed and confident amid the dominant imported brands. Then there was the woman who wore a lovely dress by Danny Satriadi. Many of Indonesia's noted designers attended this event and they seemed to greatly love Louis Vuitton.

It seems that most Indonesian fashion designers have been holding out against an all-out attack leveled by the imported brands. And it was quite an attack. At the top level, local designers had to compete with first liners from Dior, Prada and even YSL. In the mid-range, there was strong pressure from young hip things like Mango and Zara. At the cheapest end, local designers have had to put up with the onslaught of knock-off brands from China. How can they withstand this three-pronged attack? Is it really such a difficult situation for Indonesian designers?

In tough times, the rule is that only the well-established survive while the newcomers struggle.

But there is another a handful of local designers who are completely in their own world. These creatives have been doing their best to develop the Indonesian traditional wear of kebaya, a long-sleeved blouse worn over a skirt-wrap. But how much longer can they continue doing so? It is common knowledge that a kebaya will never have a significant change in its look. Despite the variety of ways it is modified, a kebaya will always be ceremonial. A question worth asking, then, is whether there are any women who want wear it on any other occasion.

Throughout 2005, the development of kebaya design has gone crazy, with the many outlandish creations detracting from the classiness of the original design. So enough of the kebaya, I say. Leave it alone, and give it back its original grace! In this respect, it seems only designers Edward Hutabarat and Adjie Notonegoro know the trick. Or, perhaps Obin; as he can make a kebaya as comfortable as a loose t-shirt.

To wrap up, Indonesian fashion may be fighting to survive against an onslaught of international brands. But there is always a silver lining in this cloud that struggling new designers should note -- competition makes the man, and the woman.