Wed, 31 Jan 2001

Lapo Ni Tondongta for a taste of Batak Toba delicacies

JAKARTA (JP): Here is a taste of traditional meals all the way from North Sumatra's Batak Toba at a bare basics eatery.

Lapo Ni Tondongta: Jl. Gelora Los A1, Senayan, Central Jakarta (behind the legislature, within an outdoor "food court" area located between the Senayan Shooting Range and a high school, SMU 28). It has several branches, including in Kebon Jeruk and Grogol in West Jakarta, and Pramuka and Bekasi in East Jakarta.

Open: 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.

What's it got?: The items on the menu mainly consist of pork. The most popular dish is panggang B2 (B2 is the "code name" for pork, and this is plain grilled pork). Other dishes are sangsang (finely chopped pork with chili, ginger, lengkuas, tamarind and lemon grass), lomok-lomok (young pig cooked using similar ingredients as sangsang) and sop (a clear broth). There is also manuk na margota (grilled chicken sauteed with spices and pork blood).

It also serves a rare dish native to the region made of dog meat, which is cooked in the same way as sangsang and is called sangsang B1.

More conservative diners may order non-pork items such as sibahut (fried freshwater catfish), ikan mas (spicy goldfish curry) and vegetarian items such as a soup made of finely sliced cassava leaves and coconut milk, and petai the green bean, served raw or cooked, famous for its pungent odor.

Regular soft drinks are on offer as well as locally brewed beers. Water, usually warm, is complimentary.

Price points: Portions of panggang B2, sangsang B2, soup, sibahut or ikan mas are merely Rp 4,000 each, which is relatively cheap even for a sidewalk restaurant. Manuk na margota is slightly more expensive at Rp 6,000 per serving and sangsang B1 Rp 5,000 per serving. Rice comes in at Rp 2,000 per serving.

Looks: Definitely a non-fancy resto. There is no air- conditioning because the place is somewhat in the "open", but there are a couple of electric fans. No toilet, so you have to do what you got to do somewhere else, before or after you dine there. There are plenty of staff and the meals are already cooked so you do not have to wait too long to be served. A band plays various songs, from traditional Batak tunes to standard Western oldies, during lunch time, especially on Sunday.

Popular with: Naturally, the Batak people, but others like office workers from the Senayan area, legislators, administrative staff and guests, journalists and security officers are also among the regulars. It's usually packed to bursting at lunch time on Friday and Sunday.

Taste Factor: Very good, especially the most popular dish, panggang B2. People who love spicy hot meals will be in their element. The only thing that does not live up to expectations is the rice, which looks and tastes the opposite of that served in your average Hoka Hoka Bento.

Minus Points: Messy and unclean, not to mention that it is a happy hunting ground for flies. Scared of crowds? Then don't eat here at lunchtime because it is swarming (with people and flies) and extremely hot.

Verdict: Of course, not for people in search of halal eateries or those wanting a cozy eating spot. But it's definitely the place for lovers of the other white meat. (Christie T.)