Kuto Besak fortress assailed by modernization

Bambang Budi Utomo, Contributor, Jakarta

Almost two centuries ago, the Kuto Besak fortress in Palembang, South Sumatra, witnessed one of the region's greatest victories against conquering Dutch forces.

Today it is the scene of another kind of battle -- history pitted against modernization.

For the moment, it would seem that history has the upper hand as plans for the construction of a shopping plaza in the area of the 18th century fortress were suspended by the South Sumatra governor.

But for how long? For despite countless calls for its conservation, the Kuto Besak fortress -- which now houses the medical facilities of the Sriwijaya Military Command -- remains missing from the government's cultural heritage list for preservation, and is only protected by a regional decree.

If it was on the heritage list, the Kuto Besak fortress together with its surrounding area would have the protection of Article 26 of the 1992 law concerning cultural items, which stipulates that:

"Whosoever intentionally damages or destroys items of cultural property or sites, or the immediate surroundings in which such property is located, or brings, moves, takes away or changes the shape, form and/or color, restores or dismantles parts of items of cultural property or valuable items without the permission of the Government ... shall be sentenced to a maximum of 10 years in prison and/or a maximum fine of Rp 100 million."

But this has been exactly the lot for many of the country's historical sites, forced to make way for development, modernization and commercialism. Can we afford to tear down any more of our heritage and national pride?

The history of the struggle against the Dutch in the South Sumatran kingdom of Palembang is a long one. Its strategic positioning on one of the world's busiest shipping routes of the time caused the Dutch East-Indies Company (VOC) to consider the independent kingdom a threat to its trade routes to and from Asia.

The kingdom's hold on important trade commodities such as tin and pepper was also a major lure for the Dutch company.

In 1659 the Dutch bombarded the Palembang kingdom -- which had stood since the mid-15th century -- and reduced its capital to rubble. However, the next year the Palembang-Darussalam sultanate was established on the ashes of the old kingdom by Sultan Abdurrahman (1660-1706).

After moving about for some time, the capital of the new sultanate was moved to Kuto Besak, and in 1780 the Kuto Besak fortress was built on the north shore of the Musi River, about 100 meters west of the old Kuto Batu palace.

The construction of the fortress was reportedly financed privately by the reigning sultan -- at the time Sultan Muhammad Bahauddin (1776-1803) -- and in 1797 Kuto Besak fortress was officially in use.

Anticipating further aggression by the Dutch, a defensive system of fortresses was devised, and the Kuto Besak fortress was supported by the Muntok fortress in Bangka, the Kurungan Nyawa fortress located upstream on the Komering River, the Martapura fortress, the Tambakbaya fortress and a fortress on the island of Kembaro (a small island in the Musi River near Palembang). Each fortress was used to repel attacks by enemies both from the river and from the land.

The thick walls of the Kuto Besak fortress itself were strengthened by bastions on each of its four corners. It used to house the sultan's living quarters, called the dalem or rumah sirah, as well as the pemarekan or open-air pavilion, the keputren where the women of the palace lived, the segaran or pool, gardens, and the nudan, which was an internal "town square".

Outside the fortress walls, on the east side, was a building where the sultan gave audiences, and a pemarekan where guests waited their turn for an audience.

A European visitor to the palace, William Marsden, described the palace in his book History of Sumatra, based on his visit there in the 18th century. He wrote:

"The dalam or palace being surrounded by a high wall, nothing is known to Europeans of the interior, but it appears to be large, lofty, and much ornamented on the outside."

"Immediately adjoining to this wall, on the lower side, is a strong, square, roofed battery, commanding the river, and below it another; on both of which many heavy cannons are mounted, and fired on particular occasions."

"In the interval between the two batteries is seen the meidan or plain, at the extremity of which appears the balerong or hall where the sultan gives audience in public. This is an ordinary building, and serving occasionally for a warehouse, but ornamented with weapons arranged along the walls."

"The royal mosque stands behind the palace, and from the style of architecture seems to have been constructed by an European. It is an oblong building, with glazed windows, pilasters, and a cupola".

During the reign of Sultan Mahmud Badaruddin II (1803-1821) the fortress proved its worth when it endured bombardment in 1819 by the Dutch forces lead by Muntinghe. Together with the help of supporting fortresses, the Dutch were held in check.

It was not until 1821 that the fortress finally succumbed to the attacks. The war later became known as the Menteng War, a misnomer for the Dutch general.

In 1825 the line of succession in Palembang ended, and the Dutch finally instituted direct rule over the rich area.

In 1930, the Sriwijaya Military Command incorporated the Kuto Besak fortress to house its medical facilities.

Today only the north, west and south walls of the fortress remain intact, while the east wall was torn down to build the Dr. A.K. Gani Military Hospital.

Underfinanced, poorly maintained and with no one to care for its future, the Kuto Besak site may well soon remain only as pictures in history books.

* The writer is a researcher at the Archaeological Research Center.