Kampung Sampireun: Jewel in the Garut crown

If you do decide to take a trip down Garut way, then don't miss out on a stay at Kampung Sampireun -- for my money simply one of the best resorts in Indonesia.

In reality, the term "resort", conjuring up as it does images of Bali-surf-and-sand vacations with no end of partying and hangovers, isn't really all that appropriate for this fine, sophisticated and luxurious establishment.

Kampung Sampireun is all about relaxation and indulgence of a gentler, more spiritual variety. For this is a truly beautiful spot nestling in the hills high above Garut on the road to the Kamojang geothermal area, located a few kilometers further up in the mountains amid wonderful expanses of fragrant pine forest blanketing the precipitous hillsides.

Featuring charming thatched cottages hugging the banks of a delightful, small lake, Kampung Sampireun is the place to go if you're in need of some serious R&R.

With a deliciously cool climate -- in fact, downright cold at night -- none of the cottages have air-conditioning and none is needed as a gentle breeze continuously wafts off the lake, billowing out the flowing white drapes surrounding your bed and keeping the air fragrant with the scent of the myriad blossoms that provide such an unforgettable riot of color throughout the Kampung.

At night, the entire complex is illuminated softly by flickering kerosene torches and candles, making this undoubtedly one of the most romantic places I've ever visited, and, heaven knows, we all need a little romance in our lives!

It's the lake, however, that forms the focal point of Kampung Sampireun and, in truth, makes it such a unique experience. With each cottage having its own private wooden jetty and rowing boat, the easiest way to travel around the Kampung is by water, although wandering along the paths as they wend their way through the lush gardens, shaded by a forest of mature palms and grooves of mighty bamboos, is perhaps even more pleasurable.

For butterfly lovers, this place is a paradise -- I counted over 20 different varieties during the two days I was there.

'Subversive' fish, attractive accommodation

Not only is there a lake, but this particular lake is chock- full of plump and exceedingly cheeky fish (koi, and various species of carp and catfish), that are so accustomed to being fed by the guests -- fish food is available at reception -- that they'll virtually jump into the boat to get the stuff.

One particularly plump specimen kept pouting his fat lips and blowing bubbles at me in a most subversive manner. If it wasn't for the strictly no fishing policy, I'd have soon had him in his place -- at the bottom of a pot!

Despite the fact that we're not allowed to eat them, these fish do serve other useful purposes, besides making spectacles of themselves as they seductively pout for food. To see what I mean, just hang your feet down in the water from your jetty and watch these greedy denizens of the deep set to work nibbling, kneading and gnawing. After this, who needs reflexology?

As for the digs, all of the thatched cottages are built in traditional Sundanese style, and are spacious, tastefully decorated and beautifully appointed. With cottages accommodating between two people (the Kalapalua Suite: one bedroom and terrace) and six people (the Manglayang: three bedrooms, living room and terrace), all rates include breakfast and dinner, plus afternoon tea, and a daily glass or two of sekoteng (traditional ginger- flavored beverage), which is brought around by boat each evening at 9 p.m.

They've also got a Taman Sari Royal Heritage Spa, capable of restoring even the most depleted of batteries, and set the muscles and skin tingling. If all that were not enough, there are superb walks through the surrounding paddyfields, stimulating hikes up into the forested hills, rafting on the Cimanuk river, batik-painting courses, and a host of other activities, both strenuous and not so strenuous, to keep young and old alike entertained.

So what are you waiting for -- check out Kampung Sampireun for a truly memorable and relaxing vacation in the dramatic volcanic heart of West Java!

-- James Boyd

Kampung Sampireun
Jl. Raya Samarang
Kamojang, Garut, West Java

tel: (0262) 542366, 542393
Jakarta office: (021) 57951405
Bandung office: (022) 2534460.
Website: www.kampungsampireun.com

Transportation available from Jakarta by arrangement