Kalianda: Sun, sea, sand and a mountain to yourself
Kalianda: Sun, sea, sand and a mountain to yourself
John Badalu, Contributor, Kalianda, Lampung
When thoughts turn to an escape from Jakarta, it's usually to
places eastwards, such as Bali -- the first choice -- Yogyakarta
or Bandung, even though this means braving lengthy traffic jams
or long queues for airline tickets.
Lampung in southern Sumatra, close as it is to the capital,
does not usually register a mention in the choice of
destinations.
"Why are you going to Lampung? You'll only see elephants
there!" a friend said to me with raised eyebrows.
In fact, I had thought the same until I went there and
discovered that Lampung has a lot of pleasant hidden surprises.
Getting to Lampung from Jakarta is quite easy. Catch a bus to
Kalideres from any of the main bus terminals in Jakarta, and then
hop on a connecting bus to Merak or go straight to Bakauheni,
which is on the tip of Sumatra.
A pleasant three-hour ferry trip from Merak in West Java to
Bakauheni in Lampung is a real joy. With gentle sea breezes and a
wonderful view of scattered islands, you'll soon forget that you
have just left one of the world's most polluted cities.
If you can't stand the heat, the ferry does offer an executive
class with air-conditioning, however it seems just as hot as the
non-AC class.
Way Kambas, with its wildlife park and the aforementioned
elephants, is the most popular place in Lampung but Kalianda is
almost never heard of. Located 30 kilometers from Bakauheni,
Kalianda is a small, dormant town. Small buses from Bakauheni
port take about 30 minutes to get there.
Its sleepy-town feel belies its dark history. Kalianda was the
site of bitter struggles against the Dutch in the 19th century,
and Krakatoa's huge explosion in 1883 set off a giant tsunami
that destroyed the whole town.
During World War II, Kalianda was the site of battles between
the Dutch and the Japanese.
There are no fancy hotels, no fancy restaurants and everything
is very local. Surprisingly, there are no seafood restaurants in
sight, as people seem to prefer to cook at home. By 8 p.m., the
city is dead.
Kalianda is like any other small town, however its Chinatown
does have a temple with simple ornaments. The harbor's fish
market can be lively in the early morning with its auction of
freshly caught fish, sharks and rays.
The only attraction near town is the grave and fort of local
hero Raden Intan II, but it's not really worth visiting.
The interesting sights are a few kilometers away outside
Kalianda. Deserted beaches, a mountain, hot springs, islands and
spectacular coastal scenes all surround Kalianda.
The most popular beach for locals and people from Teluk Betung
and Tanjung Karang is Kalianda resort. It's usually packed on
weekends, and a few kilometers away is Merak Belantung beach,
which is almost completely deserted.
Some parts of the shoreline are rocky, so be careful when you
go swimming. With a view of Mt. Rajabasa, it's the perfect beach
for sunbathing, reading or enjoying a swim. There is also Way
Urang beach near town, but this is also quite crowded during the
weekends.
To get even further away from the crowds, head further south
to Canti beach or Gunung Botak beach. Canti is a fishing village,
and you can always bargain with the fishermen to charter a boat
to visit some of the islands in the region. Most of the beaches
in the southern part have caves to explore.
Some of the offshore islands are good for swimming, exploring
the coral reefs and hiking. The easiest one to reach is Sebesi
island, but others worth visiting are Sertung if you want to just
rest or go swimming, Sebuku Lunik, which is best for snorkeling,
or Mengkudu and Kandang, known for its clear ocean and coral
reefs.
Those who are interested in culture and getting an up close
look at local life should head north to Sidowaluyo village and
take in Wishnu Temple. Balinuraga village is the place to see
cremations and Empu Suci Temple. Rawa Seragi village is
refreshing with its views of rice paddies and irrigation
projects.
True adventurers should test their stamina and hike up Mt.
Krakatoa on Krakatoa island. From Kalianda, take a bus to Canti
beach and charter a boat over to the island. Beginners can try
hiking Mt. Rajabasa, the 1,284-meter-high inactive volcano. Head
for the last village of Cugung and hike for a few hours.
The first hour of the hike in the Sukaraja hills is energizing
with its view of the ocean. The first waterfall is the ideal
place to take a rest and refresh yourself. A couple of hours
later, hikers will come across the more spectacular Curug
Bangbaran waterfall.
This is a great spot to cool off from the constant heat amid
the lush greenery of the rain forest. From there, you will
encounter the mountain lake of Rajabasa in all its turquoise
glory. Start early as the entire hike takes about five to six
hours.
If you want to relax by the waterfall without going up the
mountain, go to Minang Rua waterfall past the Gunung Botak area
in the south. Clove trees are a profitable source of income for
the district, and the fertile low slopes of Rajabasa are covered
with them. Cloves drying on mats by the pathways permeate the air
of local villages with a sweet-spicy scent.
If you have become weary from all these trips, then Way
Belerang with its natural sulfur hot springs is the place to
revitalize yourself. Constructed during the Dutch colonial era,
it consists of three different pools, each with a varying degree
of mineral content. There is a freshwater pool a few meters away
to wash away the sulfur, but it's all very basic. It's only two
kilometers away from Kalianda, so take an ojek (motorcycle taxi)
there for Rp 2,000.
If you grow tired of the usual tourist attractions, Lampung is
a good alternative for exploring great natural spots and meeting
those smiling faces they tell you about in the guidebooks.
Lampung lights
* Start early for each trip as the buses wait to be filled up
before departing. All spots can be reached by minibus.
* Bring some food and water because some places don't have
anything at all on offer.
* Remember your sunblock, as local stores do not have it in
stock.
* Most of the minibuses stop operating after 6 pm. Make sure you
get back to town before dark.
* If you intend to snorkel, better bring your own gear. No rental
available at some places.
* Mosquito repellent is a must -- even air-conditioned rooms can
be full of the fierce insects.
* Most of the hotels in town are not well-kept. Way Urang Hotel
seems to be quite reliable for a middle-range budget. Hotel
Beringin on Jl. Kesuma Bangsa 75 (Tel. 0727 2008) is the oldest
hotel in town but still the best bargain for backpackers. Hotel
Beringin also offers organized tours to the region at an
affordable price.