Kalianda: Sun, sea, sand and a mountain to yourself
John Badalu, Contributor, Kalianda, Lampung
When thoughts turn to an escape from Jakarta, it's usually to places eastwards, such as Bali -- the first choice -- Yogyakarta or Bandung, even though this means braving lengthy traffic jams or long queues for airline tickets.
Lampung in southern Sumatra, close as it is to the capital, does not usually register a mention in the choice of destinations.
"Why are you going to Lampung? You'll only see elephants there!" a friend said to me with raised eyebrows.
In fact, I had thought the same until I went there and discovered that Lampung has a lot of pleasant hidden surprises.
Getting to Lampung from Jakarta is quite easy. Catch a bus to Kalideres from any of the main bus terminals in Jakarta, and then hop on a connecting bus to Merak or go straight to Bakauheni, which is on the tip of Sumatra.
A pleasant three-hour ferry trip from Merak in West Java to Bakauheni in Lampung is a real joy. With gentle sea breezes and a wonderful view of scattered islands, you'll soon forget that you have just left one of the world's most polluted cities.
If you can't stand the heat, the ferry does offer an executive class with air-conditioning, however it seems just as hot as the non-AC class.
Way Kambas, with its wildlife park and the aforementioned elephants, is the most popular place in Lampung but Kalianda is almost never heard of. Located 30 kilometers from Bakauheni, Kalianda is a small, dormant town. Small buses from Bakauheni port take about 30 minutes to get there.
Its sleepy-town feel belies its dark history. Kalianda was the site of bitter struggles against the Dutch in the 19th century, and Krakatoa's huge explosion in 1883 set off a giant tsunami that destroyed the whole town.
During World War II, Kalianda was the site of battles between the Dutch and the Japanese.
There are no fancy hotels, no fancy restaurants and everything is very local. Surprisingly, there are no seafood restaurants in sight, as people seem to prefer to cook at home. By 8 p.m., the city is dead.
Kalianda is like any other small town, however its Chinatown does have a temple with simple ornaments. The harbor's fish market can be lively in the early morning with its auction of freshly caught fish, sharks and rays.
The only attraction near town is the grave and fort of local hero Raden Intan II, but it's not really worth visiting.
The interesting sights are a few kilometers away outside Kalianda. Deserted beaches, a mountain, hot springs, islands and spectacular coastal scenes all surround Kalianda.
The most popular beach for locals and people from Teluk Betung and Tanjung Karang is Kalianda resort. It's usually packed on weekends, and a few kilometers away is Merak Belantung beach, which is almost completely deserted.
Some parts of the shoreline are rocky, so be careful when you go swimming. With a view of Mt. Rajabasa, it's the perfect beach for sunbathing, reading or enjoying a swim. There is also Way Urang beach near town, but this is also quite crowded during the weekends.
To get even further away from the crowds, head further south to Canti beach or Gunung Botak beach. Canti is a fishing village, and you can always bargain with the fishermen to charter a boat to visit some of the islands in the region. Most of the beaches in the southern part have caves to explore.
Some of the offshore islands are good for swimming, exploring the coral reefs and hiking. The easiest one to reach is Sebesi island, but others worth visiting are Sertung if you want to just rest or go swimming, Sebuku Lunik, which is best for snorkeling, or Mengkudu and Kandang, known for its clear ocean and coral reefs.
Those who are interested in culture and getting an up close look at local life should head north to Sidowaluyo village and take in Wishnu Temple. Balinuraga village is the place to see cremations and Empu Suci Temple. Rawa Seragi village is refreshing with its views of rice paddies and irrigation projects.
True adventurers should test their stamina and hike up Mt. Krakatoa on Krakatoa island. From Kalianda, take a bus to Canti beach and charter a boat over to the island. Beginners can try hiking Mt. Rajabasa, the 1,284-meter-high inactive volcano. Head for the last village of Cugung and hike for a few hours.
The first hour of the hike in the Sukaraja hills is energizing with its view of the ocean. The first waterfall is the ideal place to take a rest and refresh yourself. A couple of hours later, hikers will come across the more spectacular Curug Bangbaran waterfall.
This is a great spot to cool off from the constant heat amid the lush greenery of the rain forest. From there, you will encounter the mountain lake of Rajabasa in all its turquoise glory. Start early as the entire hike takes about five to six hours.
If you want to relax by the waterfall without going up the mountain, go to Minang Rua waterfall past the Gunung Botak area in the south. Clove trees are a profitable source of income for the district, and the fertile low slopes of Rajabasa are covered with them. Cloves drying on mats by the pathways permeate the air of local villages with a sweet-spicy scent.
If you have become weary from all these trips, then Way Belerang with its natural sulfur hot springs is the place to revitalize yourself. Constructed during the Dutch colonial era, it consists of three different pools, each with a varying degree of mineral content. There is a freshwater pool a few meters away to wash away the sulfur, but it's all very basic. It's only two kilometers away from Kalianda, so take an ojek (motorcycle taxi) there for Rp 2,000.
If you grow tired of the usual tourist attractions, Lampung is a good alternative for exploring great natural spots and meeting those smiling faces they tell you about in the guidebooks.
Lampung lights
* Start early for each trip as the buses wait to be filled up before departing. All spots can be reached by minibus.
* Bring some food and water because some places don't have anything at all on offer.
* Remember your sunblock, as local stores do not have it in stock.
* Most of the minibuses stop operating after 6 pm. Make sure you get back to town before dark.
* If you intend to snorkel, better bring your own gear. No rental available at some places.
* Mosquito repellent is a must -- even air-conditioned rooms can be full of the fierce insects.
* Most of the hotels in town are not well-kept. Way Urang Hotel seems to be quite reliable for a middle-range budget. Hotel Beringin on Jl. Kesuma Bangsa 75 (Tel. 0727 2008) is the oldest hotel in town but still the best bargain for backpackers. Hotel Beringin also offers organized tours to the region at an affordable price.