Jl. Jaksa: Time to reach out to more than the regulars?

Hera Diani and Tertiani ZB Simanjuntak, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

Its reputation is firmly cemented as the spot for backpacker travelers, but Jl. Jaksa today resembles a jaded old woman who has seen better days.

At night, she perks up from her languor to greet her fiercely loyal regulars with a dizzying draw of loud music, sparkling lights and a fanfare of women.

When dawn breaks, the mask lifts and what is left is a deserted road, a few bleary-eyed stragglers looking the worse for wear and the shabby exteriors of the numerous cafes and cheap hotels.

The owner of Jaksa Cynthia Book, Lily, said things were a lot better when she started the secondhand book business 10 years ago.

"There were not as many hotels, cafes and street vendors then. Now we can barely pass along the sidewalks. And the street is dirtier," said Lily, amid hundreds of books stacked inside the three to four meter kiosk.

She also has to put up with more hoodlums demanding protection money.

There has been a sharp downturn in visitor numbers in recent years, triggered by the worldwide alert on terrorism from the 9/11 terrorist attacks, and the direct impact of the Bali and JW Marriott bombings. Lily said there were only two secondhand bookstores left on the street, compared to six in the 1990s.

"After the Bali bombing (in October 2002), there was a period where I didn't get even one customer for four months. Now, it's getting better than after the Bali and Marriott bombings, but business is still suffering."

Less than 500 meters long, Jl. Jaksa has been the hub for budget tourists since the 1980s, offering low-price hotels and cheap beer, even by local standards.

Despite its strategic location in Central Jakarta, a stone's throw from the center of the city, the area's tourism potential remains untapped, with the street and its denizens left to their own devices.

Compare it to Khao San Road in Bangkok. Located near Chinatown, the street offers a lively atmosphere with souvenir shops, happening artists, street singers and more, all adding up to a sense of Asian urban exoticism.

At its establishments managed mostly by Chinese Thais, all are welcome to visit, from tourists to locals.

Jl. Jaksa, meanwhile, has no symbols of local culture, unless the couple of cheap souvenir shops count. This is despite the fact that on adjacent Jl. Kebon Sirih Dalam there are still several small houses retaining their Dutch architectural design, and an old box shop which was established in the 1930s.

With the number of Western visitors decreasing and the recently implemented US$25 visa-on-arrival policy likely to make backpackers think twice, it may be time to be more inclusive of locals.

With the state of things now, however, many locals would not be interested in stopping by for a glass of beer and some pub grub.

For one, they feel out of their element.

"It's shabby and uncomfortable, and people often discriminate against us because we're not Westerners," said 30-something working woman Ade.

There are also problems of drug dealing and prostitution, which are apparent in the tiny inns in small alleys.

Businesses have been taken over by Westerners who are married to Indonesians, or who rent their establishments from locals. Only one or two cafes and hotels are fully owned by Indonesians.

According to Mack, an American expatriate who owns shares in a pub in the area, the government should take an active role if they want to revive the area.

"In Khao San Road, the government is very involved. Here, they put on extra taxes even for a 100 percent locally owned place. Because they said 'Oh, you must have a lot of money because you serve bule (Westerners). They should give business incentives if they want to lure more tourists."

He added that it was relatively rare to have tourists in the area. Most people who visit Jl. Jaksa's nightspots, he said, were expatriates working here, like English teachers, who were not on a hefty expatriate pay package and found the street to their liking to kick back and hang out with friends.

Mack said Jl. Jaksa still serves the best foreign food for the price, sometimes tasting better than more expensive food at upmarket restaurants.

Despite negative stereotypes of the Jl. Jaksa regulars, Mack said he found most to be among the most intelligent members of the expatriate community.

"There are many young, fresh graduates who come down here to get the experience, and then they go back to get their master's degree," he said.

Still, as part of the capital and a tourist attraction, the street needs to rethink its image to become inclusive. Otherwise, it will remain a different world for most Jakarta residents.