Jewelry collection offers variety, versatility and some social good

Maria Endah Hulupi, Contributor, Jakarta

Behind the story of Island Jewels is a small yet growing social project, involving around 100 people, including stone-cutting artisans in a factory in Cilacap, West Java, and silversmiths.

Also among the workers are about 50 prisoners from nearby Nusakambangan penitentiary. While the stereotyped image of prison labor toiling away in sweat shop like conditions may leave an uncomfortable feeling with some, designer Shalini Gopalan Menon said the project was done with the best intentions.

"The prisoners are part of a cooperative which allows them to train for limited hours, get a stipend and save some of the money, too. The artisans, however, are skilled and get a regular salary," said Shalini, who came up with the concept for the project.

It was introduced a couple of years ago with an aim to keep the inmates busy, make them feel useful and provide new skills which they can use to rebuild their lives after they have served their terms.

At Nusakambangan, which has been home to disgraced tycoon Mohamad "Bob" Hasan and Hutomo "Tommy" Mandala Putra, part of the proceeds from sales of the jewelry go toward improving living conditions, like retiling the bathrooms and repairing the mosque.

In fact, it was one of the prison officers who introduced obsidian, a natural stone of volcanic origin with a glass-like appearance found in a wide range of stunning natural colors, to the company.

A simple workshop with basic machinery was set up in the penitentiary where the inmates select, cut and polish the stones according to the designs. The stones are then sent to a factory in Cilacap for finishing and polishing, before being transported to Jakarta for distribution to five jewelers of different expertise for making the samples. Once the samples are approved, the production process starts.

The final products are coded, labeled, packaged and sent to the stores or buyers. The whole process from design until the jewels ends up in outlets takes at least four months.

After its launch in 2002, Island Jewels now has outlets in Pasaraya Grande and Bali. It has regular exports to Germany, Spain and South Korea, and is eying opportunities in the United States and Malaysia.

"Managing retail outlets is time consuming as we don't have an organization to support it. My main goal is to increase the production volume so the project can grow. Exports allow me to do that," said Shalini.

She said the company's designs were meant to help fashion- conscious consumers keep their spending in rein but also set their creative side free.

Two of its new collections, namely Seed Chains and the Gem Drops, are designed to allow wearers to have fun creating unique jewels to match their outfits, mood, the occasion and the satisfaction of wearing it.

"The modern working woman wants to express her individuality. She has her own opinion and likes to create her own style," said Shalini.

The Seed Chains collection is a long silver chain with a single or double hook, adorned with obsidian seeds. These chains can be fashioned into different styles of necklace simply by adjusting the lengths which forms layers to create different looks around the neck. For a fuller look, more chains can be used in different colors and sizes.

The Gem Drops collection is a practical style. It consists of a silver choker or a chain with six different shaped pendants -- oval, teardrop, square, triangle, circle and diamond -- in various colors. Countless styles, from simple chic to glamorous, can be created.

Since the gems can be mixed and matched, Shalini said the wearer can add new pendants into an existing gem collection. These collections are parts of the new designs that include brooches and pins, Wristlet `n Ring, Precious `n Leather (a leather necklace with semi precious stones -- like rose quartz, fluorite, amethyst and golden topaz -- with matching earrings).

The designer encourages wearers to experiment with different ways of application, like putting a brooch on the hip, a kebaya (blouse) brooch on the collar, pins on shirt cuffs or buttons or hook the versatile jeweled chain around the waist or shoulder on a strapless top.

Hints of Indian, Italian and Greek influences can be seen in the designs, and new collections are introduced every two months to keep up with fashion trends or mark major celebrations.

"Special designs are created for Christmas, (the post-fasting month holiday of) Idul Fitri and Valentine's for the local market and we follow seasons for markets overseas," said Shalini who is also president director of Interact Carlson Marketing Group, an international joint venture, specializing in advertising and relationship marketing.

Maintaining brand growth is important since it is only through the proceeds that the Nusakambangan project stays alive. So far, the initial market response is favorable and with the current growth, the need for expansion in the near future becomes unavoidable to cope with the demands.

"Plans are under way to set up a full fledged silver making factory with casting, rhodium plating and facilities to create other jeweled accessories," the designer said.

Link: www.islandjewels.com