Mon, 30 May 2005

Jalan Jaksa offers more than cheap beer to tourists

Andina Sawitri Lubis, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

Close to the center of the bustling city, Jl. Jaksa is really easy to reach.

Coming alive after 5 p.m. and alive till the break of dawn everyday, foreigners and locals come to this little one-way street for many reasons: to celebrate an event that won't cost a fortune, to hang around, to relax after work, to look for a side job -- as an English tutor -- or just to kill time.

Backpackers are indeed the street's permanent feature. In some parts of the street, where the low-priced hostels are located, it's easy to find Iraqis and Afghan asylum seekers who have been waiting for years to obtain permission to migrate to Australia.

Once there, you have to eat. Foreigners often say that Jl. Jaksa still serves the best foreign food for the price.

During a recent visit, The Jakarta Post looked in at just a few of the cafes and restaurants along the street.

Angie's restaurant, located at Jl. Jaksa 15, is a budget restaurant and one of the better-value places in Jl. Jaksa, serving standard Indonesian staples along with some Western fare; their tahu telor (egg and tofu) pancake is great value.

Borneo is located on Jl. Kebon Sirih Barat 35-37, close to Jl. Jaksa, is a popular budget restaurant that serves some Western food.

New Memories, Jl. Jaksa 17, has a sizable menu of somewhat overpriced Western and local dishes, but the Szechwan chicken is terrific.

Pappa's, at Jl. Jaksa 41, is a popular but rather pricey restaurant that specializes in Indian curries. A good place for lunch.

BFC -- it stands for "Bar Fans Club" -- is the first pub you come to as you wander south from Jl. Kebon Sirih. It has a simple and fascinating decoration. Next to it is Q-Bar, which has live music every night. For an alternative experience, Ali's Bar is decorated with African themes.

How to get to Jl. Jaksa:

By train. Jl. Jaksa is a mere 15-minute walk from the Gambir Railway Station (right next to Monas). Although Kota railway station in West Jakarta is on the same line as Gambir, some trains departing Kota do not stop at Gambir, and many start their journey at Gambir and miss Kota. It's easier to catch regular bus No. P1, P10, P11 or the air-conditioned No. AC01 to the Sarinah department store on Jl. MH Thamrin. Jl. Jaksa is then an easy 10-minute walk. From the Tanah Abang Railway Station, you can take bus No. P16 to Sarinah and Gambir.

By bus. From Pulo Gadung Bus Terminal, catch bus No. 507 to get downtown. Get off at the southwest corner of Jl. Medan Merdeka -- where the fountain is -- then walk about 15-minutes to Jl. Jaksa.

From Blok M Bus Terminal, it's very easy; just use the busway and get off when you reach Sarinah.