Jakarta mosques reflect various cultures of city

Jakarta mosques reflect various cultures of city

Text by Rita A. Widiadana photos by Mulkan Salmona

JAKARTA (JP): For Moslems, a mosque, be it big or small, symbolizes eternal tranquility. A mosque is a very important place for religious activities, and as a cultural and a information center.

The development of mosques in Indonesia reflects the historical, social and even political conditions of the period in which the building was constructed.

Islam penetrated Indonesia countries through Penetration pacifique. Its propagators never intended to eliminate existing cultures and traditions.

It was Moslem traders from Gujarat, India, who actively disseminated Islam teachings in Indonesia through trading and marriage with local women. In Java, for instance, Moslem preachers disseminated their teachings through wayang kulit (leather puppet) shows. The shows were originally Hindu.

According to noted architect Achmad Noeman, who designed the Salman Mosque in Bandung, Indonesian mosques have adopted elements from various cultures. Early mosques blended Islam, Hindu and Chinese architectural styles.

The roofs, for example, varied from flat tiers (Chinese) to tiered domes (Arabic) to flat domes (Hindu). The main gates to many mosques were richly decorated with Chinese or Hindu architectural elements.

Architecture was also adjusted to the environment. In the l7th and 18th centuries, mosques in Jakarta were built beside rivers, areas which functioned as the city's business centers. These mosques functioned as worship and meeting places for ulemas, Moslem traders and local inhabitants.

Today, Jakarta has more than a thousand mosques. The largest include the Istiqlal Great Mosque, the largest mosque in Southeast Asia, on Jl. Lapangan Banteng in Central Jakarta, the Cut Muthiah Mosque in Central Jakarta, and the Al-Azhar Mosque in South Jakarta. These new mosques are important to the religious activities of urban Moslems.

A mosque's importance to a local community is reflected in daily life. Jakarta has hundreds of streets and alleys named Jalan Mesjid (Mosque street) or Gang Mesjid (Mosque alley). Similar names are found throughout the country.

Jakarta also has several old, historical mosques. Only a few, however, are included on the city's heritage list. Some old mosques have been renovated by the city administration, but many others are facing demolition to make way for new projects.

The city administration has taken steps to preserve some old mosques; witnesses to the social, political and economic life of an earlier period.

Based on information from a historical book on Jakarta entitled Historical Sight of Jakarta, the old mosques include:

The Luar Batang Mosque, a mosque built in l739 near Sunda Kelapa Harbor in North Jakarta.

The two-story mosque blends traditional Javanese and Hindu architectural styles. The main gate is decorated by reliefs similar to carvings on Javanese Hindu temples. This architectural style is also found at several mosques in Banten and Cirebon in West Java, and in Demak, Central Java.

The Luar Batang Mosque is one of the city's few tourist attractions. Inside the mosque is the tomb of the famous preacher Sayid Husein bin Abubakar bin Abdillah al-Aidrus. He is believed to have been buried there in l756. Records reveal that the crypt was constructed in l798. The preacher is said to be a direct descendant of the Prophet Muhammad. Many pilgrims visit the mosque and the tomb, which they consider sacred.

Tubagus Angke Mosque, now called Alanwar mosque. Located on Jl. Pangeran Tubagus Angke in the downtown area, the mosque was built in l761. The area was originally known as Kampoeng Bali (Balinese village) and was established in l687.

The street is named after Prince Tubagus Angke, who came from the Banten Sultanate in West Java, and was the ruler of Jayakarta (old Jakarta) in the 16th century. He was the father of Prince Jayawikarta, the founder of Jayakarta.

The mosque was built by a Chinese architect for the Balinese Moslem community living in the village. The Balinese were sent to old Jakarta as slaves or soldiers after being sold by their rajah (kings). For decades the Balinese community was the second largest ethnic group in the city.

The Angke Mosque has been renovated several times, but its original structure has remained unchanged. The mosque's front steps, double winged door, carved fanlight and door frame, and the stone vase on top of the roof are typical Dutch elements.

The architect created a Balinese-styled roof, with Javanese pillars to hold it up.

Outside the mosque is the grave of Prince Syarif Hamid from the Sultanate of Pontianak (now Kalimantan) who died early 18th century.

The Annawir Mosque is also important. Located on Jl. Pekojan, West Jakarta, the mosque has long been known among Jakartans of Arab origin. The mosque was commissioned by a Sayid (a descendant of Prophet Muhammad through his daughter Fatimah). The mosque was built by Abdullah bin Hussein Alaydrus in l760. The name Annawir means "light".

Kebon Jeruk Mosque, on Jl. Hayam Wuruk in the downtown area, was a sacred place for the Cina Peranakan (Moslem Chinese) living in old Jakarta. The mosque's architecture is a rich mixture of Indonesian, Arabic and Chinese elements.

The mosque was built in l786 by a prominent Chinese man called Captain Tamien Dosol Seeng, or Choa, who chaired the Chinese Moslem Community between l780 and 1797.

A beautiful grave lies in the mosque's yard. The grave houses Mrs. Chai, the wife of Captain Choa. The crypt is wonderfully decorated with Chinese dragons, as well as Arab and Chinese ornaments.

The mosque's interior is decorated with Moorish and Dutch tiles emblazoned with animal and floral motifs. Some of the tiles even portray biblical scenes.

Tambora Mosque, on Jl. Blandongan in West Jakarta, was built by Haj Mustoyib Ki Daeng and his friends in 1767. Ki Daeng originally came from Makassar (now Ujungpandang). He previously lived on Bima Island in East Nusa Tenggara, near Mount Tambora. He was brought to Batavia as a prisoner of the Dutch. He was released from the prison after five years but remained in the city to build the mosque called Tambora. A few years later he died and was buried next to the mosque. The Tambora Mosque was completely renovated in the l980s.

The city's mosques stand as monuments to remind people that Jakarta was once a melting pot and meeting place of international cultures.