Itang shines in the rainy days of the crisis

By Agni Amorita

JAKARTA (JP): The expression "life begins at 40" suits fashion designer Itang Yunasz. While many of his colleagues are still feeling the pinch of the crisis, Itang has been able to weather the worst and his business is now growing.

Born in Jakarta 41 years ago, Itang, whose family is originally from West Sumatra, is also enjoying success in his personal life.

After his first marriage to model Larasati Iris Rishcka fell apart and despite being dogged by rumors that he is gay, he has married Yenny Mulyani. They now have a eight-month-old son, Muhammad Daffa Ramadha.

He has changed from being known as a glamorous public figure to a family man. He spends more time at home than hanging around with the beautiful people of the fashion world.

"I have become a homebody with Daffa and Yenny," said Itang, who always bathed the newborn because his wife was afraid of hurting his fragile body.

Itang also cooks and, thanks to his years spent studying in Rome, he is a master of Italian cuisine.

Most important to Itang is the wide recognition of him as one of the most resourceful Indonesian couturiers.

"Simple, attractive and easy to wear," is how he terms his collections.

After the monetary crisis struck the country in July 1997, Itang's sales dropped 50 percent the next year. Many of his customers turned to cheaper items because the price of his dresses started at about Rp 300,000.

To win them back, Itang drastically changed his style and produced designs costing less than half the usual price. A minimalist line, mostly shiftless dresses, sleeveless blouses and plain colored skirts made with local fabrics, are offered for about Rp 75,000 each.

"We couldn't go on with our former price," he said.

The public's acceptance of the line has been good, Itang said in his studio in Kebayoran Lama, South Jakarta, last weekend.

Sales have risen although they still hover from 20 percent to 30 percent below precrisis figures.

Itang launched his second line, SZ Collections, late last year. "Local designers must be brave enough to explore opportunities with prospects during these rainy days!"

Itang believes local designers can fight the ongoing crisis despite the problems. Itang said he agreed to sell his creations without his name for distribution in the international market. Under the name of Farah Angsana, his Milan buyer, Itang's creations can be found in Italy and United States.

For the local market, Itang promotes his works by regularly taking part in fashion bazaars, usually organized by designer Ramli, in five-star hotels. In one of the events, he made Rp 20 million in a day.

"Now I am preparing the October fashion bazaar which will have 500 overseas buyers," Itang said. "We do not have winter fabrics, such as wool or other thick textiles, so I will only be able to send light costumes such as evening gowns that are worn under winter coats for my autumn/winter collections."

Itang was born Yusirwan Yunasz on Dec. 31, 1958. As a child, he dreamed of being a pilot, or joining the navy. He entered the high school for naval candidates, but he could not stand its semimilitary discipline. He later went to London to study at the Vidal Sassoon Hair School and then to a school of fashion design in Rome. Itang returned home in 1980 and won the prestigious national fashion design contest held by the Femina Group, publisher of the popular women's magazine.

"That was my first step," Itang confirmed of the day he began to design professionally. With former models Enny Soekamto and Dhannie Dahlan, Itang entered Jakarta's fashion industry. He built his own debut line under his corporation, PT Yunasz Astabrata, in 1985. Itang also created uniforms for the Hyatt, Westin and Imperial hotel chains in Indonesia as well as four private banks.

Itang also was a popular singer and, with his boyish good looks, an actor and model. He produced four pop albums and acted in three movies. For 10 years, he was a model for a cigarette company. Today, however, he devotes himself entirely to fashion design.

Itang, who finds inspiration through reading and subscribes to Elle, Vogue, Reader's Digest, and Time, now only launches 120 basic creations twice a year.

"Those creations are the masters to be modified in various colors and fabrics," said Itang. He refused to mention his sales in a year, but fashion insiders say he is among five local designers with the highest sales in the city.

"Just tell the world that I did not dismiss anybody during the hard times," said Itang, who has 15 assistants in his Kebayoran office and 30 in his workshop in Ciputat, South Jakarta.