Ida Batari Dewi Danu: The goddess of the lake
Ida Batari Dewi Danu: The goddess of the lake
By Garrett Kam
BANGLI, Bali (JP): A long time ago in the distant mythological
past before humans lived on earth, a god was traveling around the
mountains of Bali. He came across a naturally-formed statue made
of kayu salem, the dark wood of the tamarind tree. Extremely
attracted to the figure, he meditated and brought it to life. He
taught the person sacred knowledge, and this new priest then
established a temple dedicated to the deity of the mountain and
lake to make use of this important learning to help other humans.
So says the legend of the Pura Ulun Danau Batur temple and its
priests in Kintamani, high up in the Bangli district of central
Bali. Perched on the edge of Mount Batur, it overlooks the
smoldering volcanic cone and immense freshwater lake of the same
name. This coexistence of the complementary cosmic elements of
fire and water makes it a very powerful and holy site. It is also
a dramatic and breathtaking location, to where people from all
over the island come to worship. It is the second largest temple
and second only in importance to Pura Panataran Agung Besakih,
with which it has a close relationship. Indeed, most people come
to pray and present offerings at both places, going to Batur
first and then continuing on to Mount Agung in a day-long
pilgrimage.
This year the annual ceremony begins on April 3 and continues
until April 16. During this time, immense offerings are brought
to the temple from the surrounding villages. Ritual Rejang dances
are performed by young women while groups of men dance the Baris
with different kinds of weapons as they weave in and out of the
thick mists that descend during the late afternoon. The powerful
sounds of the gong gede, an immense gamelan musical ensemble
found only in a few places, rings out with authority over the
high walls of the temple. Colorful flags and banners flutter in
the chilly mountain breeze.
Most important among the many groups of worshipers are the
farmers who receive their irrigation water from the lake. Grouped
into subak or irrigation societies, their livelihoods -- and
consequently those of almost everyone on the island -- are
dependent on the flow of fresh water. They offer thanks to the
goddess of the lake, Ida Batari Dewi Danu. In Balinese cosmology,
water is a female element in contrast to the fiery male. Legend
has it that a god and goddess emerged from Mount Tolangkir during
an eruption in the 4th century. The explosion was so violent that
it ripped the mountain apart and formed two separate volcanoes.
The goddess occupied the lower of the two, Batur, while the god
ruled up above on Agung.
Lake Batur, covering over 1,700 hectares, is fed by rain and
eleven sacred springs and rivers. This number represents the
complete cosmos: four major compass directions, four intermediate
points, the center, and up and down. The rivers in south, east,
central and parts of north Bali originate from this ocean of
fresh water, the highest source in terms of geography and
holiness. From these rivers are drawn the waters for irrigation
and daily needs. All of the precious liquid, however, belongs to
Dewi Danu. Pura Batur is dedicated to her, and the towering
eleven-roofed -- the maximum number -- meru in the innermost
courtyard is her shrine.
Arranged throughout the various temple courtyards are nearly a
hundred other shrines, altars, pavilions, and other structures.
Many of them are the deities of land, agriculture, plant diseases
and pests, fertility, and purification. Others are connected to
different descent groups and royal lineages. Among the more
interesting shrines is a Chinese style building which houses Ida
Batari Ratu Ayu Subandar, the divine harbor mistress. Associated
with a Chinese princess who married a Balinese king many
centuries ago, she is worshiped as the goddess of trade,
business, and wealth by the Balinese, especially those of Chinese
descent. Some years ago, a decision was made by some prejudiced
officials to move this building to the outer part of Pura Batur
in spite of protests from priests and worshipers. When several
disasters struck the temple shortly afterwards, the shrine was
relocated back to its original place.
Pura Batur itself was originally located down by the edge of
the crater lake. Previous eruptions of Mount Batur had always
spared the temple as it was such a holy place. In 1926, however,
lava flows from a more serious eruption threatened to destroy the
temple. A decision was made by the priests and local officials to
abandon the site. All the sacred relics were carried away to a
safe place high up on the crater rim as lava engulfed the temple.
The present Pura Batur, opened in 1927, is built on this second
site. On a clear day its uniquely carved gates and towers can be
seen from afar.
Twenty-four priests selected during childhood by a virgin
priestess maintain the temple throughout the year. They serve
Dewi Danu for life. The highest among them is called Jero gede
and is regarded as the earthly representative of the goddess of
the lake. Descended from the Pasek Kayu Selem lineage of
mythology, he officiates over major ceremonies at Pura Batur. He
communicates with Dewi Danu through dreams, trances, and other
mythical signs. His power and authority over the waters of the
lake are not questioned. Jero gede decides where water will flow
by channeling it via a complex network of dikes, tunnels, and
catchment systems. This also requires complete cooperation among
farmers of all the subak societies along the rivers and all the
way down to the sea.
Water is a precious material in spite of its apparent
abundance in Bali. It must be shared and used wisely so that
everyone reaps the benefits. Attempts have been made in the past
to tamper with the supply system in order to achieve maximum
output, but this led to increased plant diseases and a rise in
the rodent and insect pest populations. Farmers also fought over
water supplies and sometimes destroyed the hydraulic systems of
their rivals. Nowadays, competition over water occurs in
businesses that require immense amounts of water, much of which
is wasted. These includes golf courses, textile factories, and
many hotels and restaurants.
It is said that because the goddess makes the waters flow,
those who do not follow her may not own or use her fields. All of
this literally filters down to anything dependent on the lake,
from rice terraces to five-star hotels with Olympic-sized
swimming pools. Pura Batur is thus not only the supreme
irrigation temple, but also the paramount place for worshiping
the goddess of the source of life: Water.