Gunung Kawi, a place for spiritual goings-on

Text and photo by Alpha Savitri

GIANYAR, Bali (JP): Rich in historical and spiritual significance, Gunung Kawi was once a favorite site of the country's first president Sukarno when he visited Tampaksiring Palace in Gianyar regency, a kilometer away from the mountainous region.

A former official of the president at the palace, Ngakan Dewa Gede Dharma, said Sukarno built steps leading to the meditation site in Gunung Kawi.

Gunung Kawi, which is also a burial site of Bali's famous king Sri Udayana Warmadewa, was originally called Amarawati temple but, after Java's Majapahit kingdom expanded its influence as far as Bali, the name was changed into Gunung Kawi, meaning artificial mountain.

Now, it is an ideal site for those wanting to relax and escape the noisy commotion of the city.

According to local residents, Gunung Kawi is often visited by officials hoping for a promotion or successful career. A local Hindu priest, who wished to remain anonymous, said that shamans from various parts of the country were among visitors coming to meditate in the area.

Many skillfully carved caves, temples and shrines are located deep in the center of this hilly area, which is regarded as an important spiritual center.

While walking down the hundreds of steps to reach the main site, visitors can enjoy views of magnificent and enchanting rice fields, ravines, hills and the Pakerisan river that traverses the area. At the end of the steps, one will see a stone wall with a carving that resembles a cave. Here, a natural melody of sounds emanating from the river can be heard.

Around the river, visitors will notice scattered caves and temples covered with moss, evoking an mood of ancient times.

These temples have carved stone walls. Slim with multi-level roofs, they resemble Hindu temples found in Java. Balinese call these temples paderman.

The graves of King Warmadewa and his wife, as well as those of his ministers, are buried in several paderman and local people believe they can communicate with the spirits of the king and his family there.

According to anthropologist and lontar (palm leaf) manuscript expert, Dewa Beratha, the temples at Gunung Kawi were built in the 9th and 10th centuries by Marakata, who began construction, and continued by Anak Wungsu. Both were sons of King Udayana. It is estimated that the king died between 933-938. The temples were probably built based on King Udayana's wish for the area to be his spiritual resting place.

There are four temple complexes in Gunung Kawi, lying in the east, west, south and southwest of the Pakerisan river.

According to Dewa, the king was buried in the eastern part of the complex with Marakata, Anak Wungsu and two wives. The king's ministers were buried in the southwest complex.

Ancient Javanese words are found on those graves, such as Lumah ing Jalu (the king who passed away in the Jalu, or Pakerisan river) engraved on King Udayana's tombstone; Rwa Nakira (my two sons) on Marakata's and Anak Wungsu's tombstones; and Rakyan (ministers) on the ministers' tombstones.

"It could be the king's preferred ministers who were buried here," Dewa said.

Ancient Javanese words in the west complex are no longer readable while those in the south are incomplete, prompting the residents to call it the Batal (Canceled) temple.

Caves covered with moss scattered around the temples were once used by priests and members of their families to meditate.

Out of the caves, there is a biggest one. And according to Dewa, the biggest cave is now reserved for priests only. "Only certain priests are now allowed to meditate or perform religious rituals there," Dewa said.