German grub galore at Mandarin Oriental Hotel

German grub galore at Mandarin Oriental Hotel

JAKARTA (JP): A lot of water has flowed under the bridge since
Epicurus last ventured out into Jakarta's culinary mine field to
fire off potshots and grudgingly bestow medals on the fare on
offer.

Or, considering the Teutonic theme of this week's column,
much has washed down the Rhine.

To refresh the memories of loyal readers of yore, Epicurus
made a discreet but sudden departure from these pages early last
year when the tentacles of the crisis put a stranglehold on the
budgets of even the most resolute of diners out.

And venturing beyond the safe confines of home or office
became an increasingly daunting prospect with the onslaught of
the crime wave, and the media's harrowing tales from the front.

Epicurus, heart and pocketbook a little the worse for wear,
hung up pen and paper until happy days dawned again.

Well, they may not be around the corner quite yet, but the
powers that be decided to breathe life back into the column and
send Epicurus out to try what Jakarta's eateries, old and new,
have to offer.

Not to harp on the theme, but much has happened in the past
year. A few eateries have shut up shop (Dutch-food mainstay
Memories in the Indocement building among them) but several new
bright spots have appeared on the culinary horizon.

Those reviews will have to wait for later, with the strategic
choice made for this week's column to focus on the edibles
available at the German food promotion at Kafe-Kafe in the
Mandarin Oriental.

Apropos because Germany is hogging the spotlight, so to speak,
at the ongoing TECHNOGERMA '99. And also because Epicurus' debut
column a couple of years ago came from an experience at Kafe-
Kafe, although one which perhaps should better be left unsaid.

Suffice to say a few snippety asides about scheduling of a
food demonstration put a couple of noses out of joint, pointedly
that of a certain European envoy (think Hercule Poirot, french
fries and chocolate). A diplomatic incident was thankfully
avoided, but not before several aggrieved salvos were fired off.

Steeled by that old saying to let bygones be bygones, Epicurus
and companion put any lingering trepidation aside and set out to
try the best delights that Germany, plus specially recruited
Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong chef Stanley, had to offer during the
weeklong Haus Gemacht Cooking.

No comely German maidens answering to the names Helga or
Gudrun greeted us with overflowing steins at the cafe's low-
ceilinged entrance. Instead, German flags as table settings and
wrapped as the waiters' cummerbunds made for tasteful and
understated acknowledgement of the promotion.

Before us lay a hearty selection of salads, main courses and
German sweet treats, all served up under the watchful gaze of the
aforesaid Stanley.

And Epicurus made a strategic choice of dining partner. Of
German parentage, she bears an expertise on German matters of the
stomach exclusive to those reared on mutter's home cooking.

The memories came flooding back as soon as we sampled the
salad bar -- herring salad (predominance of dill a bit much for
our tastes), excellent beef salad, a good green bean salad and
the typical smooth potato salad bearing little resemblance to its
crunchier American cousin.

Main course items included an outstanding rolled-up beef
stuffed with bacon, mini hamburgers, veal meatballs and bread
dumplings. And what would German food be without a robust array
of beef and pork sausages in all their mind-boggling variety.

Condiments included cheese spaetzle, red cabbage and the
interesting carrots stewed in beer. For those not sated by the
savory offerings, a groaning display of cakes and puddings can
round off the meal.

Epicurus and companion were sated if not completely satisfied,
agreeing that several of the dishes, too bland for our liking,
would have been complimented by the addition of a requisite
sauce.

Still, with the exception of the stunningly obscene sight of
two non-Germans thinking it a hoot to give Nazi salutes as they
posed for photographs, the Rp 85,000 ++ price, inclusive of
coffee and a huge cappuccino, provided an appealing immersion in
German grub galore.

-- Epicurus