German grub galore at Mandarin Oriental Hotel

JAKARTA (JP): A lot of water has flowed under the bridge since Epicurus last ventured out into Jakarta's culinary mine field to fire off potshots and grudgingly bestow medals on the fare on offer.

Or, considering the Teutonic theme of this week's column, much has washed down the Rhine.

To refresh the memories of loyal readers of yore, Epicurus made a discreet but sudden departure from these pages early last year when the tentacles of the crisis put a stranglehold on the budgets of even the most resolute of diners out.

And venturing beyond the safe confines of home or office became an increasingly daunting prospect with the onslaught of the crime wave, and the media's harrowing tales from the front.

Epicurus, heart and pocketbook a little the worse for wear, hung up pen and paper until happy days dawned again.

Well, they may not be around the corner quite yet, but the powers that be decided to breathe life back into the column and send Epicurus out to try what Jakarta's eateries, old and new, have to offer.

Not to harp on the theme, but much has happened in the past year. A few eateries have shut up shop (Dutch-food mainstay Memories in the Indocement building among them) but several new bright spots have appeared on the culinary horizon.

Those reviews will have to wait for later, with the strategic choice made for this week's column to focus on the edibles available at the German food promotion at Kafe-Kafe in the Mandarin Oriental.

Apropos because Germany is hogging the spotlight, so to speak, at the ongoing TECHNOGERMA '99. And also because Epicurus' debut column a couple of years ago came from an experience at Kafe- Kafe, although one which perhaps should better be left unsaid.

Suffice to say a few snippety asides about scheduling of a food demonstration put a couple of noses out of joint, pointedly that of a certain European envoy (think Hercule Poirot, french fries and chocolate). A diplomatic incident was thankfully avoided, but not before several aggrieved salvos were fired off.

Steeled by that old saying to let bygones be bygones, Epicurus and companion put any lingering trepidation aside and set out to try the best delights that Germany, plus specially recruited Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong chef Stanley, had to offer during the weeklong Haus Gemacht Cooking.

No comely German maidens answering to the names Helga or Gudrun greeted us with overflowing steins at the cafe's low- ceilinged entrance. Instead, German flags as table settings and wrapped as the waiters' cummerbunds made for tasteful and understated acknowledgement of the promotion.

Before us lay a hearty selection of salads, main courses and German sweet treats, all served up under the watchful gaze of the aforesaid Stanley.

And Epicurus made a strategic choice of dining partner. Of German parentage, she bears an expertise on German matters of the stomach exclusive to those reared on mutter's home cooking.

The memories came flooding back as soon as we sampled the salad bar -- herring salad (predominance of dill a bit much for our tastes), excellent beef salad, a good green bean salad and the typical smooth potato salad bearing little resemblance to its crunchier American cousin.

Main course items included an outstanding rolled-up beef stuffed with bacon, mini hamburgers, veal meatballs and bread dumplings. And what would German food be without a robust array of beef and pork sausages in all their mind-boggling variety.

Condiments included cheese spaetzle, red cabbage and the interesting carrots stewed in beer. For those not sated by the savory offerings, a groaning display of cakes and puddings can round off the meal.

Epicurus and companion were sated if not completely satisfied, agreeing that several of the dishes, too bland for our liking, would have been complimented by the addition of a requisite sauce.

Still, with the exception of the stunningly obscene sight of two non-Germans thinking it a hoot to give Nazi salutes as they posed for photographs, the Rp 85,000 ++ price, inclusive of coffee and a huge cappuccino, provided an appealing immersion in German grub galore.

-- Epicurus