Food becomes increasingly important during Ramadhan

Food becomes increasingly important during Ramadhan

JAKARTA (JP): To practicing Moslems, fasting does not merely mean abstaining from eating and drinking during the daylight hours. Fasting, in its broadest sense, involves an exercise of one's mind and one's soul. When Moslems fast, they should keep negative thoughts from their minds and control their emotions. They are not even supposed to think too seriously about what they are going to indulge in after breaking their fast.

Nevertheless, because eating is one of the most basic needs of any living being, food invariably gains more importance than usual as we enter Ramadhan, the fasting month. That is why star- rated hotels and upscale restaurants PROVIDE special buka puasa (breaking of the fast) menus during Ramadhan.

Even for those who do not normally frequent expensive restaurants or hotel coffee shops, the choices are never limited. Popular Padang restaurants, such as Restoran Sederhana in Pasar Sunan Giri, Rawamangun, and Sepakat in Blok M, still provide their much sought after dishes throughout most of Ramadhan, although they are generally closed in the mornings and early afternoons.

At 3 p.m., they begin selling nasi bungkus (rice and various accompaniments wrapped in banana leaves or brown paper) so that people can reward themselves with their favorite dishes as they break their fast.

Even though it is still more than three hours before the actual breaking of the fast time, people start buying nasi bungkus because if you try to get your nasi bungkus at about 5:30 p.m. in one of these top Padang restaurants, you will probably have to stand in long queues. Even then, chances are you can no longer get the favorite dishes Padang restaurants offer, such as ayam panggang (roasted chicken curry) or gulai otak (cow's brain curry).

By the time the bedug (drum at a mosque) beats, Jakarta's favorite Padang restaurants will be packed with patrons.

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Supermarkets and food courts never fail to take advantage of the fasting month. During buka puasa, people fasting will choose sweet snacks and juice drinks to replenish their bodies calories and liquids. Favorite appetizers or desserts during Ramadhan -- depending which one they can get a hold of first -- include kolak pisang (bananas cooked in coconut milk and palm sugar), cendol (green colored rice flour strips in coconut milk served with melted palm sugar and shaved ice) and fruit juices.

Even simple iced syrups are highly welcomed during the breaking of the fast, as long as they can soothe dry throats and refresh the body.

At Food Plaza, located in the basement of Pasaraya Blok M, every buka puasa is like party time, and extra hard work for the staff. According to Iis Handayani, the Plaza's supervisor, they have added 800 chairs to accommodate the crowds, bringing the total amount of chairs available to 2,000. Even with these additional chairs, a lot of people still have to remain standing while eating.

The most popular dishes and drinks at Food Plaza during breaking of the fast are the ones that can be served quickly, such as lontong sayur (steamed rice cakes and vegetables), ketupat (rice cakes steamed in woven palm leaf pouches), kolak pisang, and fruit juices. Asked whether they have enough manpower to handle the crowd, Iis said that Food Plaza employs additional staff on contract basis during Ramadhan.

Ramadhan not only bring more sales of foodstuffs to supermarkets, food courts and restaurants, but also more job opportunities for people seeking work.

According to Golden Truly's president director Pak H.E. Dachlan, sales of sugar, flour, and rice show significant increases in this mid-range supermarket. Golden Truly also sell imported dates. Full of calories, dates are a great favorite during Ramadhan.

As the end of Ramadhan nears, which is marked by Idul Fitri, people who stay in Jakarta and other Indonesian cities start to worry about their stockpiles at home.

The week before, as well as the week after Idul Fitri are typically the weeks where households will have to be maintained without the help of housemaids, as the majority of these house helpers go back in their villages. Are canned and other ready-to- serve food in higher demand? Pak Dachlan says most certainly, adding that biscuits, other types of cookies and sweet foodstuffs seem to be a must during Ramadhan and Idul Fitri and sell very well.

Bakeries also offer special items for those who are fasting. At Regina's Bakery, you can drop by and buy kolak pisang or agar agar (jelly) in plastic cups. There are also traditional snacks available, such as klepon (steamed rice cake filled with palm sugar) and nagasari (rice cake filled with a slice of banana wrapped in banana leaves).

Michael Gondokusumo from Regina's Bakery says that as Idul Fitri gets closer, more and more orders for Lebaran cakes are taken at Regina's outlets. Five days before the great day, his employees will be working overtime, perhaps all night, to churn out enough cakes to meet customer orders.

On Idul Fitri, when respectful younger people pay a visit to their seniors or subordinates come to wish Minal Aidin Walfa'izin (congratulations offered after Ramadhan) to their bosses, the pinnacle of festivities will be reached. The most common dish in every house will be ketupat and opor ayam (chicken cooked in coconut cream and spices). Rendang (spicy beef dish that has been slowly cooked until the coconut cream evaporates), a renown dish from Padang, is another favorite because it can be kept for a long time without having to be reheated. That is very important to Indonesian households because the majority of people in the cities at this time are without help.

When Idul Fitri is over, all will become normal once again. Prices will level off, and so will our appetites for food specialities. That is, until the next Ramadhan comes along. (zia)