Exploring Baduy settlements in ancient land

Exploring Baduy settlements in ancient land

Bambang Parlupi, Jakarta

The rustle of trees in the mountain breeze, and the sound of
flowing streams with intermittent chirps of songbirds, signaled a
welcome as visitors enter settlements of the Baduy community in
Banten, Java's westernmost province. An observation of Baduy Luar
("Outer Baduy") and Baduy Dalam ("Inner Baduy") areas showed
neatly built wooden houses on stilts with bamboo walls and dry-
leaf roofing, reflecting simplicity and peace.

Smiles and hospitality were another feature displayed by the
predominantly black-clad Baduy locals. A closer look at their
daily life revealed that people in Baduy villages continued to
adhere to their ancestral customs as a form of community
reverence for the ancient legacy of their progenitors.

Being in a congenial Baduy settlement was like reliving a
civilization of a bygone age amid current sophistication. The
centuries-old mode of living of their forefathers is mirrored in
the present-day life of Baduy inhabitants, with Sunda Wiwitan as
their local religion, and making the 5,138-ha area of land a
magnet for visitors.

Baduy's hilly topography still leaves a forest zone and dozens
of mountain water springs that empty into rivers with clear
streams. Its cultural wisdom, unique community and exotic natural
beauty appeals to visitors. Unsurprisingly, the Sundanese
speaking ethnic group is listed as one of the Seven Wonders of
Banten.

Baduy has become an important ecotourism destination. It is
comparable to the enchanting scenery offered by Banten's Ujung
Kulon National Park, Mount Krakatau, the Sunda Strait's sunset,
Sanghyang Island, Sabesi Island and the Banten Lama archeological
site.

According to the Encyclopedia of Sunda, the name Baduy was
actually given by outsiders. The Baduy community call themselves
Urang Kanekes (Kanekes people). The word "Baduy" originated in
the region's Mt. Baduy or Cibaduy River, after which early
visitors called local people. "The Baduys prefer the use of
Kanekes because they live in Kanekes village," said Sarif, a
Baduy Luar member from Babakan hamlet, Kanekes.

Kanekes is located north of the Kendeng mountain range or
south of Leuwidamar district, in Lebak regency, Banten. Sarif, a
father of two and fluent Indonesian speaker, said that Urang
Kanekes could be found in 55 hamlets. "Fifty-two hamlets are
settlements of the Baduy Luar (external) tribe and the other
three belong to the Baduy Jero or Dalam (internal) tribe," he
added. The Baduy population is estimated to be around 7,500.

Sarif explained that Baduy community leaders, known as jaro,
came in two types: one appointed by the regent of Lebak and the
other appointed based on local custom. The custom-based jaro is
the chief in Baduy Dalam's Cikesik, Cikertawana and Cibeo
hamlets. Kanekes is under the government's village head, Jaro
Dainah, who was appointed by the regency administration.
"Traditions are handled by the custom chief and public affairs by
the village head," said the 36-year-old, who was acting as a
guide.

Urang Kanekes can be distinguished from non-locals by their
black shirts, pants, sarongs and headgear. "Long-sleeved shirts
are called kampret, meaning fruit bats. Clothes are made without
using sewing machines," Sarif pointed out.

Besides the black clothing, some Baduy Dalam people wear white
shirts. However, while Baduy Luar members, particularly males,
are still allowed to wear ordinary black shorts, Baduy Dalam men
are obliged to use sarongs that are so shaped as to look like
shorts.

When entering the settlements of Baduy Luar and Dalam, mainly
located alongside streams, tourists have to cross traditional
bridges made of bamboo stems and palm fiber. But some rivers have
no bridges, forcing visitors to wade into the clear yet rocky
streams.

The doors of houses of Baduy Dalam and Baduy Luar also have
differences. Though almost the same in shape, a Baduy Dalam house
only has one front door and no windows. A Baduy Luar house has
three doors: front, side and back. Windows are also permitted in
the wooden houses that are fitted with bamboo floors.

Baduy Dalam houses are constructed without nails and without
the use of saws. Wooden pegs, palm fiber or bamboo bark are used
instead. For cutting and felling trees, only daggers are allowed
to be used. Baduy Luar's customs are more flexible, allowing the
use of nails and even simple carpentry tools.

This well-preserved ancient Sundanese culture has aroused
great public interest. Sarif indicated that the number of
visitors to Baduy could reach 2,000 a month, generally comprising
students and cultural researchers, notably during school
vacations.

"Some of them just want to stroll along at leisure, while
others conduct research for months at a time. Still others come
for special purposes like paying homage or making a pilgrimage,"
said Jaim, a Baduy Luar member living in Gajeboh hamlet.

According to Jaim, who works in the field while selling his
hand-made bark bags, some visitors have the ambition of seeing a
Puun in Baduy Dalam; someone with particular mystical
capabilities and a revered religious and custom leader.

Nonetheless, he said that all visitors were required to
respect established Baduy traditions. "The prohibition against
visits to Baduy Luar and Baduy Dalam by foreign tourists
continues to apply," he noted. The entry of all kinds of vehicles
is also banned, which is put on the notice board in Ciboleger,
the entrance to Kenekes.

In Baduy Dalam, guests are not permitted to use cleaning
agents when bathing in rivers. The sounds of tape recorders,
radios, cell phones and musical instruments are forbidden. Also
seen as a breach of local custom is taking pictures in the Baduy
Dalam area.

The rules are more lenient in Baduy Luar. Though all modern
sounds are prohibited, in several places the use of toothpaste
and soap for bathing is allowed. "Photographing Baduy Luar
members is only done with permission. If the persons concerned
are willing, then it's okay," said Jaim, who has been to Jakarta
several times.

Sarif added that non-Baduy entry was strictly forbidden to
some areas, such as certain forests in the Cibeo and Cikesik
hamlets. Furthermore, Baduy people refuse to use electricity so
that no electronic equipment can be found in their settlements.

Basically, Urang Kanekes hold to the philosophy of modest
living and honest conduct, emphasizing nature conservation and
environmental equilibrium. Their Sundanese saying goes, "Gunung
ulah dilebur, lebak ulah dirusak", meaning mountains must never
be denuded, forests must never be destroyed.

How to reach Kanekes

There are at least two ways to visit the Baduy settlements in
Kanekes. One is to go from Bogor or Jakarta to the Rangkas Bitung
terminal in Banten, where buses can be caught to Ciboleger
village, Leuwidamar district, the entrance to Baduy.

The second route starts from the Jakarta Kota or Tanah Abang
railway station, Central Jakarta, to the Rangkas Bitung station,
which takes about two hours by train. From the Rangkas Bitung
station one can walk to the bus terminal. After reaching
Ciboleger, the gate of Kanekes in Baduy Luar is only some hundred
meters away.

Every visitor is obliged to report to village administrators
before observing the Baduy tribal life, in order to get a
briefing about do's and don'ts. Local guides are available at
negotiable rates. Baduy Dalam is a favorite for visitors, who
have to walk for a day to reach Cikesik, Cikertawana and Cibeo.
The hills, forests and rivers they have to cover and cross add to
the thrill of the trek.

If they arrive late at the settlements, visitors can stay with
Baduy Luar and Baduy Dalam residents, who respect and appreciate
every guest. The services of guides is very important for
communication with locals, who speak Sundanese and only a little
Indonesian.