Exploring Baduy settlements in ancient land

Bambang Parlupi, Jakarta

The rustle of trees in the mountain breeze, and the sound of flowing streams with intermittent chirps of songbirds, signaled a welcome as visitors enter settlements of the Baduy community in Banten, Java's westernmost province. An observation of Baduy Luar ("Outer Baduy") and Baduy Dalam ("Inner Baduy") areas showed neatly built wooden houses on stilts with bamboo walls and dry- leaf roofing, reflecting simplicity and peace.

Smiles and hospitality were another feature displayed by the predominantly black-clad Baduy locals. A closer look at their daily life revealed that people in Baduy villages continued to adhere to their ancestral customs as a form of community reverence for the ancient legacy of their progenitors.

Being in a congenial Baduy settlement was like reliving a civilization of a bygone age amid current sophistication. The centuries-old mode of living of their forefathers is mirrored in the present-day life of Baduy inhabitants, with Sunda Wiwitan as their local religion, and making the 5,138-ha area of land a magnet for visitors.

Baduy's hilly topography still leaves a forest zone and dozens of mountain water springs that empty into rivers with clear streams. Its cultural wisdom, unique community and exotic natural beauty appeals to visitors. Unsurprisingly, the Sundanese speaking ethnic group is listed as one of the Seven Wonders of Banten.

Baduy has become an important ecotourism destination. It is comparable to the enchanting scenery offered by Banten's Ujung Kulon National Park, Mount Krakatau, the Sunda Strait's sunset, Sanghyang Island, Sabesi Island and the Banten Lama archeological site.

According to the Encyclopedia of Sunda, the name Baduy was actually given by outsiders. The Baduy community call themselves Urang Kanekes (Kanekes people). The word "Baduy" originated in the region's Mt. Baduy or Cibaduy River, after which early visitors called local people. "The Baduys prefer the use of Kanekes because they live in Kanekes village," said Sarif, a Baduy Luar member from Babakan hamlet, Kanekes.

Kanekes is located north of the Kendeng mountain range or south of Leuwidamar district, in Lebak regency, Banten. Sarif, a father of two and fluent Indonesian speaker, said that Urang Kanekes could be found in 55 hamlets. "Fifty-two hamlets are settlements of the Baduy Luar (external) tribe and the other three belong to the Baduy Jero or Dalam (internal) tribe," he added. The Baduy population is estimated to be around 7,500.

Sarif explained that Baduy community leaders, known as jaro, came in two types: one appointed by the regent of Lebak and the other appointed based on local custom. The custom-based jaro is the chief in Baduy Dalam's Cikesik, Cikertawana and Cibeo hamlets. Kanekes is under the government's village head, Jaro Dainah, who was appointed by the regency administration. "Traditions are handled by the custom chief and public affairs by the village head," said the 36-year-old, who was acting as a guide.

Urang Kanekes can be distinguished from non-locals by their black shirts, pants, sarongs and headgear. "Long-sleeved shirts are called kampret, meaning fruit bats. Clothes are made without using sewing machines," Sarif pointed out.

Besides the black clothing, some Baduy Dalam people wear white shirts. However, while Baduy Luar members, particularly males, are still allowed to wear ordinary black shorts, Baduy Dalam men are obliged to use sarongs that are so shaped as to look like shorts.

When entering the settlements of Baduy Luar and Dalam, mainly located alongside streams, tourists have to cross traditional bridges made of bamboo stems and palm fiber. But some rivers have no bridges, forcing visitors to wade into the clear yet rocky streams.

The doors of houses of Baduy Dalam and Baduy Luar also have differences. Though almost the same in shape, a Baduy Dalam house only has one front door and no windows. A Baduy Luar house has three doors: front, side and back. Windows are also permitted in the wooden houses that are fitted with bamboo floors.

Baduy Dalam houses are constructed without nails and without the use of saws. Wooden pegs, palm fiber or bamboo bark are used instead. For cutting and felling trees, only daggers are allowed to be used. Baduy Luar's customs are more flexible, allowing the use of nails and even simple carpentry tools.

This well-preserved ancient Sundanese culture has aroused great public interest. Sarif indicated that the number of visitors to Baduy could reach 2,000 a month, generally comprising students and cultural researchers, notably during school vacations.

"Some of them just want to stroll along at leisure, while others conduct research for months at a time. Still others come for special purposes like paying homage or making a pilgrimage," said Jaim, a Baduy Luar member living in Gajeboh hamlet.

According to Jaim, who works in the field while selling his hand-made bark bags, some visitors have the ambition of seeing a Puun in Baduy Dalam; someone with particular mystical capabilities and a revered religious and custom leader.

Nonetheless, he said that all visitors were required to respect established Baduy traditions. "The prohibition against visits to Baduy Luar and Baduy Dalam by foreign tourists continues to apply," he noted. The entry of all kinds of vehicles is also banned, which is put on the notice board in Ciboleger, the entrance to Kenekes.

In Baduy Dalam, guests are not permitted to use cleaning agents when bathing in rivers. The sounds of tape recorders, radios, cell phones and musical instruments are forbidden. Also seen as a breach of local custom is taking pictures in the Baduy Dalam area.

The rules are more lenient in Baduy Luar. Though all modern sounds are prohibited, in several places the use of toothpaste and soap for bathing is allowed. "Photographing Baduy Luar members is only done with permission. If the persons concerned are willing, then it's okay," said Jaim, who has been to Jakarta several times.

Sarif added that non-Baduy entry was strictly forbidden to some areas, such as certain forests in the Cibeo and Cikesik hamlets. Furthermore, Baduy people refuse to use electricity so that no electronic equipment can be found in their settlements.

Basically, Urang Kanekes hold to the philosophy of modest living and honest conduct, emphasizing nature conservation and environmental equilibrium. Their Sundanese saying goes, "Gunung ulah dilebur, lebak ulah dirusak", meaning mountains must never be denuded, forests must never be destroyed.

How to reach Kanekes

There are at least two ways to visit the Baduy settlements in Kanekes. One is to go from Bogor or Jakarta to the Rangkas Bitung terminal in Banten, where buses can be caught to Ciboleger village, Leuwidamar district, the entrance to Baduy.

The second route starts from the Jakarta Kota or Tanah Abang railway station, Central Jakarta, to the Rangkas Bitung station, which takes about two hours by train. From the Rangkas Bitung station one can walk to the bus terminal. After reaching Ciboleger, the gate of Kanekes in Baduy Luar is only some hundred meters away.

Every visitor is obliged to report to village administrators before observing the Baduy tribal life, in order to get a briefing about do's and don'ts. Local guides are available at negotiable rates. Baduy Dalam is a favorite for visitors, who have to walk for a day to reach Cikesik, Cikertawana and Cibeo. The hills, forests and rivers they have to cover and cross add to the thrill of the trek.

If they arrive late at the settlements, visitors can stay with Baduy Luar and Baduy Dalam residents, who respect and appreciate every guest. The services of guides is very important for communication with locals, who speak Sundanese and only a little Indonesian.